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Old 06-18-2013, 10:26 PM   #16
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


OK, what if I just sand the hell out of it with a power sander and start over? Is that a good approach?
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:45 PM   #17
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


Well... yes you could... do you have a belt sander....use carefully. and subsequent palm (finish sanders)

You would have to be carefull to not go thru a ply (on your sides). I looked at the pic and think thats solid 1x on the top. Alot of work, but possible ... and sand carefully... especially near your edges.

Do you know what edge banding is... after sanding you could apply edge banding (glue, press on, or iron on) to the plywood side edges for a finished look. Edge banding...about $5 at any big box.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:36 AM   #18
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


Water based poly or oil based?
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:12 AM   #19
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


Did you seal the wood before staining? Did you apply the stain and wipe off the excess? Did you stir the stain thoroughly? I ask because you mention it was thick.

Gel staining it now might work out. It will not look like real stain and poly finish though.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:49 PM   #20
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


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Originally Posted by oh'mike
Water based poly or oil based?
They have started putting 'fast drying' on the regular oil base Minwax Polly. Idk why, its still slow to dry, 4 hours at best.
You would think they would label the WB 'fast drying' it dries in as little as 1 hr.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:16 PM   #21
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


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I made a jewelry box for my girlfriend. I stained it dark oak, then after it dried, I put a coat of minwax fast drying polyurethane satin finish. There are all these light yellowish blotches in various places, some are really ugly and large. How do I correct this?

Thanks for any help you can lend. This is how it looked before I put the finish on:



I am in Washington, DC.
Something's amiss here...You used an oil base stain, and it was thick? You are certain you did not use a gel stain (says right on the can). I don't believe Minwax even makes a dark oak stain in any of their product lines - but none of their stains (other than gel stain), would ever be considered "thick". And if it were dark oak, your jewelry box really doesn't look like what I'd call a dark oak... Which brings me to the point of my post. Your stain didn't penetrate. It didn't (or wouldn't) matter if you were using oil stain then oil poly, water stain then water poly, water stain then oil poly...or any combination of the above. Your stain didn't penetrate. Just about the only way these yellow blotches would manifest themselves, is if the poly were re-wetting the applied stain and incorporating it into the clear film - which really would be difficult if the stain did penetrate (especially after "3 or 4 days").

If you really want to stain then varnish (poly), you're gonna have to remove coating that is on the surface (via sanding or chemical remover). Then you're gonna have to figure out why the board didn't accept the stain in the first place. Was this new board? ...or salvaged board? If salvaged, had it been finished or waxed in it's previous life? What type of prep work did you do before staining and what type of wood is it?

Keep in mind, if this is the route you choose to go (stripping and starting over), re-finished wood often times does not accept stain very well - that is unless all the previously applied finish has been removed, both what was on the surface AND what may have penetrated the wood as well.

If you're gonna consider a product like Poly Shades (colored varnish), you're still going to need to remove the existing coating since you're not satisfied with the uniformity of appearance - Colored varnishes are just that - colored varnishes. They are not stains, but even though they are colored, they are still transparent - what you see on the surface now will still be seen after a coat or two of a product like Poly Shades has been applied.

Painting is always an option. Less overall work. Scuff sand, prime and paint. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Last edited by ric knows paint; 06-19-2013 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:01 PM   #22
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


Thanks for all the good advice! I will not paint. I'm going to sand the living sh!t out of the 1x while preserving the pretty good finish on the plywood sides.

As for the plywood edges, I'm not going to apply edging for a finished look. I like the lines in the plywood edges. They are good looking, especially with the stain.

The entire thing was made with scrap wood I found in a pile at the back of the store for a buck a piece. 5 bucks total I think.

I really like this group, and I hope to repay other amateurs who show up here with some of the good knowledge I've picked up from you guys in this thread.

Good woodworking to you.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:26 PM   #23
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


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Thanks for all the good advice! , and I hope to repay other amateurs who show up here with some of the good knowledge I've picked up from you guys in this thread.

Good woodworking to you.
Knowmore.... And good going to you friend

However, from some of us with more experience than you, we did leave out some rather important info and advice...... if you give your lady a jewelry box, you're then going to have to fill it.

Best
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:37 PM   #24
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Minxax Polyurethane--discoloring help!


Good thing she likes candy. :-)
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