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Old 07-17-2012, 05:36 PM   #16
jschaben
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj1915 View Post
Sorry about your experience with Polyshades. You probably did everything right; it's just that Polyshades is best-suited for smaller projects, especially when it dries so quickly in this weather.

Even using a quality bristle brush, working on one small section at a time, and laying down thin coats, you still may get lap marks on a large door.

I know this will hurt, but the best thing to do now is to strip or sand it off, then get back down to bare wood.

At that point I would (1.) apply a coat of oil-based Minwax Wood Conditioner according to directions, (2.) brush or rub on your choice of Minwax Wood Finish oil-based stain, and then (3.) finish with two or three coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane for an exterior door or Fast-Drying Polyurethane for indoors.

Its a few extra steps, but these oil-based products give you the longest working time, which is critical when everything dries so quickly in warm weather.

Hope this helps!

Bruce Johnson
Minwax Spokesperson
Thanks for the input Bruce
However, I thought Polyshades WAS an oil based product.
As far as sanding the door down, if that's a veneered door, it may not be the best advice.

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Old 07-17-2012, 05:41 PM   #17
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Let me be the first to say that sanding/stripping fresh poly and stain is possibly the toughest job any painter has to do...........sandpaper will gum up.........stain that penetrated the wood is nearly impossible to remove without damaging the door. My vote is to keep working with the polyshades until you get something close to what you wanted.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj1915 View Post
Sorry about your experience with Polyshades. You probably did everything right; it's just that Polyshades is best-suited for smaller projects, especially when it dries so quickly in this weather.

Even using a quality bristle brush, working on one small section at a time, and laying down thin coats, you still may get lap marks on a large door.

I know this will hurt, but the best thing to do now is to strip or sand it off, then get back down to bare wood.

At that point I would (1.) apply a coat of oil-based Minwax Wood Conditioner according to directions, (2.) brush or rub on your choice of Minwax Wood Finish oil-based stain, and then (3.) finish with two or three coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane for an exterior door or Fast-Drying Polyurethane for indoors.

Its a few extra steps, but these oil-based products give you the longest working time, which is critical when everything dries so quickly in warm weather.

Hope this helps!

Bruce Johnson
Minwax Spokesperson

Dear Bruce,

Perhaps somewhere on the Polyshades can it should indicate that the product is not good for projects such as doors. It does not. In fact, on the Minwax website, for this product, the company states, "Recommended Uses: furniture, woodwork, doors, cabinets, accessories." Such information would lead one to believe that it could be used on doors. Similarly, if this product should not be used in the summer, in an air conditioned house, it should state this somewhere on the user information.

This would be most helpful to the very people who might be inclined to use such a product - homeowners who rarely do wood finishing.

Lorin
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Gymschu View Post
Let me be the first to say that sanding/stripping fresh poly and stain is possibly the toughest job any painter has to do...........sandpaper will gum up.........stain that penetrated the wood is nearly impossible to remove without damaging the door. My vote is to keep working with the polyshades until you get something close to what you wanted.
Thanks. I'm a little nervous about trying to strip it, I have to say. I have done stripping on items in the past (in fact a piano, no less) but trying to take off this fresh coating makes me leery. I did put another coat on today. I feel like it went just as poorly, to be honest. The spousal unit isn't so unhappy with it, but I'm the resident perfectionist.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:52 AM   #20
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So, I too am a dork. I fell into the same Polyshades "trap" as the original poster. Same scenario- I usually research everything thoroughly first but for some reason with my brand new unfinished oak fireplace mantle, I just went to the hardware store without researching first. My wife saw a nice walnut shade on a Polyshades sample, so we bought that. We followed all the instructions, applying their prep product, pre-sanding, using thin coats. Guess what- it's a horrible mess. It is uneven, blotchy and on top of that- has been giving off terrible fumes for two days now. My advice- if you've fallen into the Polyshades "trap", stop and strip it off ASAP. Unfortunately I plowed ahead, adding coat after coat (carefully, using steel wool between coats, applying thin coats with a quality brush)- it only made it look worse. This is absolutely a terrible product. If Minwax cared about the public, it would stop selling this nuisance, toxic wood-ruining goo.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:27 AM   #21
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Wow, and I almost used this stuff on new fiberglass doors about a year ago.

My exterior fiberglass doors are about 18 months old and are starting to fade a little from the sun. I've not put anything on them yet.

What would you suggest that I coat them with.

Thanks,
Arky
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:03 AM   #22
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Fiberglass door


Arky,

After being fooled by Polyshades, I wouldn't consider myself an authority on what is best to use. I can only tell you that if you want to turn your door into something like a Cub Scout woodworking project gone terribly wrong, use Polyshades!

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