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-   -   Minwax Polyshades mess! Help? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/minwax-polyshades-mess-help-150525/)

sixxmum 07-16-2012 09:15 PM

Minwax Polyshades mess! Help?
 
So, I'm a dork. I usually research like crazy, but I was at the store getting paint and remembered that my new door was coming today and needed to be stained before tomorrow. I popped by the stain section and saw the Minwax Polyshades. It sounded like it would make things go more quickly (yes, dork), so I picked it up in Antique Walnut.

Well, after conditioning the door, sanding, tack clothing, etc. I started applying according to the can directions, in thin layers with a brush. This stuff is horrendous. Keeping a wet edge is near impossible, and anywhere you end up overlapping a little shows. It's not even close to walnut, but that part I will suck up if I can just make it look good in some color.

So, now I have a coat of this mess on my new $500 door. I don't know if this is something that I can do a second coat (better? tips?) and fix or if I need to go tomorrow and find something to strip this off with (what would that be?) and start over.

I'll take whatever tips you have!

jschaben 07-16-2012 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixxmum (Post 967567)
So, I'm a dork. I usually research like crazy, but I was at the store getting paint and remembered that my new door was coming today and needed to be stained before tomorrow. I popped by the stain section and saw the Minwax Polyshades. It sounded like it would make things go more quickly (yes, dork), so I picked it up in Antique Walnut.

Well, after conditioning the door, sanding, tack clothing, etc. I started applying according to the can directions, in thin layers with a brush. This stuff is horrendous. Keeping a wet edge is near impossible, and anywhere you end up overlapping a little shows. It's not even close to walnut, but that part I will suck up if I can just make it look good in some color.

So, now I have a coat of this mess on my new $500 door. I don't know if this is something that I can do a second coat (better? tips?) and fix or if I need to go tomorrow and find something to strip this off with (what would that be?) and start over.

I'll take whatever tips you have!

Sounds like it's drying to quickly on you. I'd add about a capful (oz.) of paint thinner to a quart. I had to refinish a door with the stuff last fall and that's what I did and then sprayed with a HVLP.
I hope Ric knows Paint shows up on this one, he knows the scoop on formulation changes required by the feds for paint and paint products.
Good luck:)

Gymschu 07-17-2012 08:22 AM

Didn't even know they still made Polyshades! In theory, it was a good idea.........mixing stain and poly TOGETHER to speed up the staining process. In fact, it didn't do this at all. There just isn't enough stain in the can to penetrate into the wood. I always had lots of runs also. At this point you are probably stuck with applying multiple coats to try and get near the color you want. Applying JUST STAIN to a door that already has poly on it is going to create its' own set of nightmares.

joecaption 07-17-2012 08:33 AM

Or sand it back to bare wood and start over.

Is this door exposed to the sun or totaly covered?
Polyshades will never hold up in direct sun.
Even reguler poly will not work, it will just peel from the UV.

jschaben 07-17-2012 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gymschu (Post 967814)
Didn't even know they still made Polyshades! In theory, it was a good idea.........mixing stain and poly TOGETHER to speed up the staining process. In fact, it didn't do this at all. There just isn't enough stain in the can to penetrate into the wood. I always had lots of runs also. At this point you are probably stuck with applying multiple coats to try and get near the color you want. Applying JUST STAIN to a door that already has poly on it is going to create its' own set of nightmares.

Yeah, they still make it. All over Wally World and Home Depot, I think my S-W store even carries it. Isn't to bad, like you say, with multiple coats but I usually use 3 or 4 coats of urethane anyway. I lay 'em flat and spray and it really comes out pretty decent, thinned a little. :)

sixxmum 07-17-2012 10:58 AM

Spraying is above my pay grade :) The door is hanging right now (difference of opinion with contractor regarding best way to stain). So, my options are really to forge ahead with a brush or to strip and start over. Which would you go with? If I strip, what would be the best approach? This is a four panel door. So lots of molded edging.

jschaben 07-17-2012 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixxmum (Post 967903)
Spraying is above my pay grade :) The door is hanging right now (difference of opinion with contractor regarding best way to stain). So, my options are really to forge ahead with a brush or to strip and start over. Which would you go with? If I strip, what would be the best approach? This is a four panel door. So lots of molded edging.

I'd go ahead and thin it some and brush it. Figure on 3 or 4 thin coats, thin coats to reduce chance of runs. Several coats to get close to the shade and protection you want. As was mentioned, I do hope this is an interior door. Polyshades has no UV inhibitors AFAIK. If it is exterior, plan on two more coats of spar urethane which does have the inhibitors.:)

sixxmum 07-17-2012 12:50 PM

Thanks for the input. I guess I might as well carry on. If it doesn't work out, then I go back and strip it.

I'm using a bristle brush (Purdy, highest line nylon), do you think foam would be better?

jschaben 07-17-2012 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixxmum (Post 967974)
Thanks for the input. I guess I might as well carry on. If it doesn't work out, then I go back and strip it.

I'm using a bristle brush (Purdy, highest line nylon), do you think foam would be better?

Either would probably work, I've had bubble issues with foam though. If you aren't getting brush strokes I keep the brush. Adding the thinner will help any brush strokes level out also. :)

joecaption 07-17-2012 12:59 PM

I would use a gel stain for more color control and less mess, brush it on with a cheap brush and wipe it off after letting it sit a few min. with a clean rag.
If your talking about the poly, then never use a foam brush, it will be full of bubbles.
It's suggest to use a natural hair brush when doing poly.

I would use Bristal Finish if you want a deep looking quick drying, self leveling really long lasting finish. Any marine supply store will have it.
You can do three coats in one day with this stuff with little or no sanding between coats.
I used to only use this stuff on brite work on boats.

The more coats you take the time to apply of any sealer the longer it's going to last.

jschaben 07-17-2012 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 967979)
I would use a gel stain for more color control and less mess, brush it on with a cheap brush and wipe it off after letting it sit a few min. with a clean rag.
If your talking about the poly, then never use a foam brush, it will be full of bubbles.
It's suggest to use a natural hair brush when doing poly.

I would use Bristal Finish if you want a deep looking quick drying, self leveling really long lasting finish. Any marine supply store will have it.
You can do three coats in one day with this stuff with little or no sanding between coats.
I used to only use this stuff on brite work on boats.

The more coats you take the time to apply of any sealer the longer it's going to last.

Joe - if you read his previous posts, he already has one coat of poly on, gel stain now? really???
It also looks like he's committed to Polyshades, changing products in the middle of the job has never appealed to me as a good idea, generally a "start over" thing.

joecaption 07-17-2012 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixxmum (Post 967974)
Thanks for the input. I guess I might as well carry on. If it doesn't work out, then I go back and strip it.

I'm using a bristle brush (Purdy, highest line nylon), do you think foam would be better?

PS if you go back and strip it try my way.

sixxmum 07-17-2012 01:20 PM

Got it!
Yes, I wish I had asked here beforehand. If I end up stripping things and starting over, I would definitely look into gel.
Thanks again for the help. I'll stick with the brush and carry on.

Not that it matters, but "he" is a "she" :thumbsup: (hence the "six x mum" name). I'm my house's handy-person.

Lorin

jschaben 07-17-2012 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixxmum (Post 968000)

Not that it matters, but "he" is a "she" :thumbsup: (hence the "six x mum" name). I'm my house's handy-person.

Lorin


Doesn't matter at all, good luck:thumbup:

bj1915 07-17-2012 04:00 PM

Polyshades Problem
 
Sorry about your experience with Polyshades. You probably did everything right; it's just that Polyshades is best-suited for smaller projects, especially when it dries so quickly in this weather.

Even using a quality bristle brush, working on one small section at a time, and laying down thin coats, you still may get lap marks on a large door.

I know this will hurt, but the best thing to do now is to strip or sand it off, then get back down to bare wood.

At that point I would (1.) apply a coat of oil-based Minwax Wood Conditioner according to directions, (2.) brush or rub on your choice of Minwax Wood Finish oil-based stain, and then (3.) finish with two or three coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane for an exterior door or Fast-Drying Polyurethane for indoors.

Its a few extra steps, but these oil-based products give you the longest working time, which is critical when everything dries so quickly in warm weather.

Hope this helps!

Bruce Johnson
Minwax Spokesperson


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