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shelzmike 02-08-2012 10:04 PM

Methods for getting sandy swirl plaster smooth?
We are working on completely redoing walls in a small area of our house. Has paneling currently (yuck, right...was there when we bought it), but I pulled one panel to discover a bumpy sandyswirl plaster texture PLUS it looks like they used sanded paint as well. From some of the nail holes, the plaster is very thin until you get to the drywall underneath (like 1/16th").

I hate this swirly texture crap almost as much as I hated the dark panels and want it gone. We want to end up with a flat smooth finish. What are some of our best options. We have slightly more time than money but not by much. Thanks in advance for the help!


joecaption 02-08-2012 10:06 PM

It will come out faster and smoother to remove it down the the suds and start over with new drywall.

DannyT 02-08-2012 10:20 PM

try skimming an area with joint compound and see what you think. if you dont like it do as joe suggested and rip it down to the studs and install new drywall.

shelzmike 02-08-2012 10:31 PM

You know, I am reallh leaning toward that actually. The space is small enough, plus I reall need to run some new electrical and data lines anyway. My wife just thinks "that doesnt make sense" though she has never really done it before to see how easy it is. The only person who has told me that it would be much more expensive is our pastor :) . I will price it out and see what we are looking at. However, my step dad did say he knew how to skim coat (he has been a painter for years and years and I guess he can do that too.

Thanks guys...still interested in hearing from others though as well.

My only issue is this: I have put up plenty of board before, but never have finished it. This pretty much involves fiberglass tape, mudd in the seams, smoothed out, primed and painted right?


joecaption 02-08-2012 10:35 PM

Paper tape, the tape covers the seams not just the mud.

shelzmike 02-08-2012 10:35 PM

Also, what wallboard should I use? Not a whole lot of budget here, but dont want to go super cheap. If I do it right the first time, we are talking about 20 sheets max. We have kids, if that makes a difference, lol.

ltd 02-08-2012 10:41 PM

yea you got it, except,paper tape with premixed joint compound .

ltd 02-08-2012 10:58 PM

imo tearing out walls and re sheet rocking is a lot easier said than done.think about it you have your ceiling transition ,outlets ,base boards,window recess,door jambs,heat outlets,bla bla bla.:eek:

shelzmike 02-08-2012 11:53 PM

Well, i do agree that it it more than just slapping it up there, BUT I have put up board plenty and am comfortable with it, and I have removed and refinished texture 0. And I am getting my electrical upgraded so will be needing to put in new outlets anyway (thats a plus). Also, I measured it out and I would actually only need about 13 boards. Plus I already have crown molding that I have been careful to remove and plan on refinishing and reusing, and have baseboard that I have done the same. Same for window and door casing. My wife still is going the money route, but I do not really care so much as I am thinking practical. I do appreciate your input though. So far I am getting about 75% for and 25% against.


chrisn 02-09-2012 03:01 AM

If you are doing new electric work anyway , it is a no brainer:whistling2:

oh'mike 02-09-2012 07:16 AM

When you are ready to tape we will help--three different muds--three different uses--

shelzmike 02-09-2012 10:27 AM

My wife is still skeptical, but I think I am going to do it this way anyway :).

So a couple more questions, number one - which of these boards should I get?

We do not live in an earthquake area (though we did have one last summer, but it was so random and never usually happens). The house was built in the 40s, so I do not need to go super fancy.

Also, why paper tape vs. mesh tape? I have seen lots of videos of guys finishing board, and the large majority are using mesh. Just curious. I am guessing it has to do with the texture of it showing through?

Finally, just to toss this one out there (and not to start a heated debate, :) but vertcial vs. horizontal. I have read up on it, but wanted to get your opinions. Seems like horizontal is stronger, but requires more cuts (at least it would in my house). Which do you guys do?

Oh, one more thing, If I am not doing anything with the ceiling and am using crown molding, do I need to tape the top edge? If so, why? This would cause some issues because my ceiling is textured - I think it is called slapdown and has lots and lots of ridges and this would honestly be a nightmare. Thanks!


Mr. Paint 02-09-2012 10:58 AM

Not tearing down the wall to the studs leaves you with applying a skim coat over a thin skim coat. This can lead to intercoat adhesion failure when stress is applies (Like wall hangings, etc.) Your need to run new electrical and data cables creates alot of time-consuming patchwork. Another advantage of tearing out the old wall from a 1940's house is being able to add insulation.

oh'mike 02-09-2012 06:29 PM

Any 1/2 inch drywall will do fine--just get the larges sheets that fit,in order to save on taping seams.

shelzmike 02-09-2012 08:45 PM

Thanks again for the info. I took the time and measured all the area that would need to have board put up and it equates to only 10 sheets of 12' board, so not much at all. Now my biggest issue is that I am a bit more pressed for time than I thought. I need to try to be done by next weekend, which is gonna be hard with me working too. I may try to barter on craigslist for the labor (actually hanging + step 1 of finishingI can handle the rest). I am a web developer and I am sure there are tons of guys out there who do not have a web presence, which is getting important nowadays. I would normally charge 1200 for the full workup, so that is really fair as far as I am concerned!

We shall see..

Thanks again...

Oh, is this good to get?

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