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-   -   May I have a general consensus on a few things (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/may-i-have-general-consensus-few-things-147511/)

behumble 06-18-2012 10:39 PM

May I have a general consensus on a few things
 
Hi- thanks for reading~
I've been painting 9 years straight now and still haVe a lot of questions.
First of all, it seems to me that all the old timers prefer painters putty over spackle (be it vinyl or whatever that other stuff is) when prepping nail holes.

For this example, we'll say it's on new unprimed interior millwork that's getting latex prime -n- latex top coat
[and we'll say it's for detailed production painting]
So, putty vs spackle (or some other material) under latex?

I know a fella who uses glazing to fill dem holes. You probably know him too.:)

Another thing I'm curious about is, can I box up my flat wall paint and use it for primer on new sheetrock? or do you think there's an adhesion issue that I won't have with a bucket that says "drywall primer".

That's it for now, I'm looking forward to your thoughts~
Brian in N.Florida

user1007 06-19-2012 12:26 AM

I fear I may trip over my perceptions of spackle. I always think of it as the absolutely good for nothing but for pin holes foamy lightweight stuff that comes in tiny cans for an outrageous amount of money. I never used it. I know others refer to vinyl spackles so I cannot comment on those.

For situations you describe I like the density of wood putty but have been known to use drywall compound because I can wet sand it to surface. There have been occasions when caulking baseboards or trim where I have used it to fill finishing nail holes that were to be painted.

As for using flat paint for a drywall primer? Never. :no::no: Primers and paints serve different purposes and are formulated accordingly. A flat paint will not seal and prime new drywall and you want a primer that does since all you put on after depends on that first layer of material.

Save the flat for the interiors of closets or cupboards.

Genshu 06-19-2012 06:03 AM

Interesting post. I have often wanted to dry joint compound over damaged wood, say an old door with tons of nicks because it is so easy to spread evenly and sand as necessary. Would this work?

user1007 06-19-2012 06:18 AM

I wouldn't use drywall compound for something like cracks in a door. The door just expands/contracts and flexes too much. Putty would be better but I find epoxy fillers the best for those applications.

Brushjockey 06-19-2012 06:23 AM

I guess I qualify as an ol boy...lol
I have used it all. I find if I really want completely flush holes I need to hit them twice with whatever I.m using. Not all situations need that much detail, and so putty is sufficient. I am ok with lightweight, have used both premixed and powdered, the bordons wood filler, crawfords putty ( which some prefer but I have a hard time keeping a can from going hard- and yes I know about tossing a little water in it..) etc.
The problem with muds is that you need to reprime ( I always fill after the prime) and putties might give shiners.
So - I have no one answer- I use what seems like the best for the situation.

And yes you can fix minor flaws with mud, but I think the wood filler feathers better. Both need reprime.

behumble 06-19-2012 07:20 AM

Thank's Brushjockey! Did you want to weigh in in the flat paint as a first coat on new sheetrock? I see so many contractors doing it, especially in production.

Brushjockey 06-19-2012 07:41 AM

If all your putting up is cheap builders flat- and quality makes no difference-

I use a good primer sealer and finish in BM matte usually. But I am doing quality redo work, not quick NC.


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