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mkrepel 01-02-2012 04:37 PM

Matching stain/oil on pine and fir
We are in the middle of a remodel and are going with knotty pine T&G under the vaulted eaves for the front porch. The fir glulams are also visible. Do we try to match the two types of wood or attempt to contrast? The fir has some darker (heartwood?) spots, so matching may be difficult. Also, what is the best exterior stain/topcoat product(s), knowing that the glulam ends are exposed to weather? Will an oil such as Seafin work best, or will a polyurethane top coat? Or should I just cap the ends of the glulams? I am concerned about this as they are so visible from the street. Has anyone capped the visible ends of beams and had it come out looking good? Thanks.

joecaption 01-02-2012 04:45 PM

Going to need a picture on this one.
Glulams should never be exposed.
By using a ply sealer and pine or fur you just made a maintance nightmare when that stuff starts peeling in a few years.
Your would have been far better off with solid colored stain and no sealer or better yet vinyl beaded soffit.

mkrepel 01-02-2012 05:54 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attached is a picture. The 4 beams hang below the fascia. So would you cap/flash the beam ends?

housepaintingny 01-02-2012 07:37 PM

I would go with an oil stain, Sikkens SRD transparent, which is available in differant tones. You don't have to cap the ends, just stain them. There are a lot of resedential and commercial building with a similar design to yours and the ends get stained. Clean everything with a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner, apply a wood brigtner, use low pressure when cleaning. Allow everything to dry and apply your stain, but you will want temps in the mid 50'S or even higher for about a week.
An oil transparent stain won't peel it will wear over time, then clean and re-apply. A film forming stain will peel and crack over time if not maintained.

mkrepel 01-03-2012 11:33 PM

Thanks for the input. If 50 degrees or warmer is required, then I won't be doing it until spring.

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