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Old 06-25-2012, 07:21 PM   #16
Bill Kearney
 
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There's also chemical paint strippers for the wood. Those would probably be less trouble than the mess sanding would cause.

At some point you have to ask just what look you want out of the trim. If it's special trim and you want to make it look new then it's likely best to carefully remove it and have it professionally stripped. But if you're just looking to smooth the surface and have it look reasonably decent for paint that's just a matter of filling, smoothing it and then lightly sanding just that area. But if it's just regular trim (nothing special) that's been beat to hell then perhaps it might even be a lot more cost effective to just rip it out and put up fresh stuff. I had a rental where years of air conditioners in windows, untold numbers of hack jobs putting up blinds, curtains and what-not made it better to just remove and replace the woodwork (and some windows) entirely.

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Ed911 (06-26-2012)
Old 06-26-2012, 05:32 PM   #17
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I'm not sanding all the paint off...just trying to get the paint down to a smooth surface.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:07 PM   #18
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For just the hole patches? Then just a plain block with sandpaper would do. Or just about any simple electric pad sander. As long as you're not trying to remove a LOT of material, just smooth the patches then you don't need much, nor need to worry about the underlying coats. I've got a porter cable that has a vacuum attachment and it does a decent job.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:07 PM   #19
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Good luck with your project!
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:02 PM   #20
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Random orbit are OK unless there is a profile on the trim then it tends to sand the profile off or at least sand down the edges. May want to look into a detail sander if you have any profile. In my opinion the best advice is remove and replace. Tip- if you replace go to Home Depot not Lowes at depot you can get up to 16' so less splicing if you can haul it. At depot if you need a 5' piece you can cut a 5' piece at Lowes you have to take a 8' piece. Also at depot ask about contractors packs of moldings they are usually about 1/2 as much but you have to take the whole pack so measure how much you need before you go. Good Luck
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:46 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diyexpert View Post
Good luck with your project!

This project started in JUNE, I would hope he is done by now
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:11 AM   #22
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This project started in JUNE, I would hope he is done by now
Yep...done. The room turned out nice...after lots of sanding, multiple coats of paint, and a new ceiling fan.

Thanks again for all of your help.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:16 AM   #23
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After my HarborFright orbital sander died, after fabout 3 years, I spent about $70.00 on a Dewalt with bag and it's fantastic. I am surprized how must stuff that bag picks up. Have been using it for about a year now and am loving it. BTW, also loved the HF one till I turned it on, it barked, smoked and was put to sleep! I refinish quite a bit of furniture and a huge entertainment center and loved it!

I am no expert but had a Dewalt powered drill that I have used quite a bit for about 5 years no and thought it was well made also.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #24
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To the OP, and anybody else for that matter.....

When I was doing a lot of wall/ceiling sanding in my last house - drywall - I also used RO and palm sanders with ports that I hooked up to my vacuums. I had two vacs I used, a small two gallon portable and a wall mounted one ( the Craftsman / ShopVac tall skinny job ), and with both in use while sanding I was getting zapped by the sanders.

Seemed enough static electricity was building within the hose(s) that it would arc from the brushes in the sander to my hand. Not a pleasant feeling getting a charge every couple of minutes. The vacs had grounded plugs and the sanders were the typical two prong "insulated" devices. I know that when running a dust collection system - all the wall mounted pipes going to a large central vac, are supposed to have ground wire(s) in the pipes to eliminate the building of static electricity. Did you have any issues with getting zapped while using a sander hooked up to a vacuum?

To the pros out there.....barring a dedicated grounding system when doing this type of job, I had this idea and went so far as to make it, but never use:

Took a replacement three prong plug, yanked the hot/neutral blades leaving only the grounding plug, then hooked a length of wire to the ground plug. My plan was to wrap one end of the wire - bare - around the vacuum hose then "plug" the other end into an outlet, obviously it's only the ground plug and nothing else. Would that contraption work as a means to channel any static build up in the vac hose, through the house ground, and not the palm of my hand?
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:40 PM   #25
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The bosch 5" VOS the cheaper one is rated really highly in all the places I checked out. Ended up getting it pretty cheap online. I'll go ahead and recommend it. Also, let me plug MIRKA stuff, including sanders (too rich for my blood) but the paper/pads are good and reasonable.

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