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Old 06-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #1
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Looking for a sander...


I'm going to paint the woodwork in my new office...a bedroom that my wife and I are remodeling and I have a couple of questions.

First off, let me say that our home is 58 years old, and that there are lots of nail holes in the drywall, which I've already spackled, and lot's of holes in the woodwork, which I haven't filled.

So, here's what I need.

1. Advice on buying a reasonable sander for sanding the woodwork...orbital...random...etc...

2. Advice on what filler I can use to fill the holes in the woodwork...left from many previous owners hanging curtains, and blinds.

3. What to clean the walls with before I paint them.

I could guess at the above, but you guys already know the answers to these questions...so I thought I'd ask before I wasted time with something that doesn't work.

I would appreciate any help that you can give me...

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Old 06-23-2012, 04:01 PM   #2
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What kind of "woodwork" is it? Maple, cherry, oak, etc... Any photos?

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Old 06-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #3
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What kind of "woodwork" is it? Maple, cherry, oak, etc... Any photos?
I can do photos...if necessary, but it's painted pine...painted and painted and painted...the house is going on 59 years old...so, I'm looking for a sander to remove paint...prep for new paint...

I should have been more specific.

Window frames, molding, baseboards, ect.

I pretty good at DIY...but I sure like advice from those who can offer it...before I waste time...

Thanks, Ed
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:31 PM   #4
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Of all the palm sanders I've owned (Black & Decker, Millwonke, Makita, Dewalt & Bosch) the Bosch has been by far the best in my humble opinion. It is the easiest/fastest for changing over sand paper, the lightest, and so far the most durable. It has a nice natural feel which is great when doing more detailed work or if sanding larger areas it helps reduce fatigue. The sanders with the velcro pad system don't generally last very long but might be OK for occasional home DIY use.

Start with 80 grit to remove the paint & then 120 & finish off with 220 to get the smooth finish. Depending on the size of the holes, I got a tip from some finishing carpenters on a recent project who were using car body panel filler for all their trim nail holes. Sands super smooth & does not go brittle like some fillers. This is fine if you are painting over as it is a rusty red colour. If you want to retain a wood finish (ie. staining) then you can mix wood glue & saw dust from the wood itself to make your own filler ... and at least it will be the correct shade. For bigger holes you could drill the hole to a uniform size (say 1/4") and then cut dowel rod to fit & sand smooth.

As for the walls ... they'll probably need a good sanding with a foam sanding block or drywall sander before you do anything else. A good quality primer (which can be tinted for you depending on paint colour) is usually best bought from a paint supplier rather than the big box store ... you'll find few of the painting contractors go to the big box stores & that's not just because of price. With painting 90% of the end result is based on the correct prep ... spend time here and you will love the end result. A good 'tool' to have on hand is a halogen work light so you can see any imperfections in the wall that a standard room light does not show before you paint over them.

Naturally I can only speak for my location as regards what is the 'norm' here.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:31 PM   #5
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If its just painted pine, for your time and effort would probably just be faster and easier to tear it out and start from new.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:48 PM   #6
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Check out CPO Tools web site.
I bought a factory rebuilt Porta Cable ramdom orbital sander years ago and it still works great. Only $25.00.
I agree, if this is old just plan moulding, and not some odd ball profile, it's far faser and comes out smoother by just replacing it.
You also will not be breathing in lead based paint by replacing it, but you will if you start sanding it.
I use painters putty or light weight Fast and Final, wipe it on and it's dry in a few min. and it's non shrinking with no sanding.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:48 PM   #7
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I have several 5" random orbit sanders--all Porter Cable heavy duty ones.

Get a random orbit---fastest material removal--easy to change paper and the paper holds up a long time--

Using light weight (blue lid) drywall mud is the easiest for touching up the plaster or drywall--

Hand sanding is best--your new sander will blow dust all over the house.

For painted wood repairs---Durhams water putty is hard to beat for price and ease of use--
Mix with water as you need it--

Be careful with heavy sanding of the old paint--that house is old enough to have lead paint---Mike--
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:07 PM   #8
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Look for a sander with a vacuum pickup on it. Works great, just hook it up to you shop vac. A trick I've done is buy another hose and hook it up to the exhost port on the vacuum and just hang it out the window.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:18 PM   #9
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Look for a sander with a vacuum pickup on it. Works great, just hook it up to you shop vac. A trick I've done is buy another hose and hook it up to the exhost port on the vacuum and just hang it out the window.
Just make sure the wife isn't downstairs with the windows open
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:02 AM   #10
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If its just painted pine, for your time and effort would probably just be faster and easier to tear it out and start from new.
This may be the best suggestion...for the best outcome. The holes in the trim are pretty big...and may not look nice even if I fill and sand.

However, my experience with this house is that nothing is as simple as it looks. Tearing out one thing leads to another and then another and well, you get the idea.

And, once I start, it's on...no tuning back.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:05 AM   #11
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Retrimming the entire house will add a lot to the looks and value of the place-

It is a big expense---but the return on the effort is huge---Don't dismiss the idea--it is a good one--
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:46 AM   #12
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Bear in mind there's likely to be lead paint under there. You do not want to be breathing it. Some areas have very strict requirements about how it's supposed to be removed (for good reason). If DIY is possible then best bet is use a sander than supports having a vacuum attached, and use one with a filter rated for the job.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:14 PM   #13
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Bear in mind there's likely to be lead paint under there. You do not want to be breathing it. Some areas have very strict requirements about how it's supposed to be removed (for good reason). If DIY is possible then best bet is use a sander than supports having a vacuum attached, and use one with a filter rated for the job.
Thanks, will do...I haven't decided what to do yet. I didn't think of the lead issue...hmmm...just one more thing to consider.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:55 PM   #14
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Retriming the winows can be a great thing in an older house, if there's alread replacement window all the better.
Once the trims off it's not unheard of to be able to see day light around the outside trim.
Good time to insulate, foam and caulk before installing the new trim.
If it's a two story house it was very common to have fancy trim down stairs and plan trim up stairs, that alone could save you some money.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:21 AM   #15
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Why do you need to remove ALL the paint to begin with???


arguably the best sander out there
certainly the most expensive

http://www.festoolproducts.com/?gcli...FYhM4Aod43lg3A


Last edited by chrisn; 06-25-2012 at 03:23 AM.
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