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ggm530 08-04-2012 12:12 PM

linseed vs boiled linseed oil
 
I have a rewood pation table and was told to use raw linseed oil and not boiled to preserve the wood, which is the best for my application

DangerMouse 08-04-2012 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggm530 (Post 981306)
rewood pation

huh???

Did you have a question?

DM

ggm530 08-04-2012 12:22 PM

Raw linseed vs boiled linseed
 
Yes,
I have a rewood patio table and was told to use raw linseed oil and not boiled to preserve the wood, which is the best for my application

Brushjockey 08-04-2012 12:44 PM

Just had a really informative discussion about linseed oil
here

ric knows paint 08-04-2012 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggm530 (Post 981306)
I have a rewood pation table and was told to use raw linseed oil and not boiled to preserve the wood, which is the best for my application

Hiya GG...

Redwood is a really good wood to use for patio furniture 'cause it's so low maintenance. It really doesn't need anything to preserve it as it naturally resists insects, rot and mold...If it sets in direct sunlight for a period of time, it will weather to a silver-gray that many people find attractive. Sooooo - is this actually redwood? ...or is it stained whitewood (spf board) to look like redwood? If it has turned to a silver-gray, are you trying to restore it to it's original brownish-red color? (linseed oil won't do that).

Linseed oil is a great way to re-hydrate dry wood...and by that it helps to minimize the threat of dry rot. It is NOT insect repellant (grasshoppers love it) and, as mentioned in earlier posts, it very much is a food source for mildew growth (both raw and boiled). Were you planning on putting some type of finish over the linseed oil such as a stain or paint?

Several people here have opinions regarding linseed oil and some actually know the difference between raw and boiled. Without going into a lot of blah, blah, blah...Raw probably works better as a "preservative" - while boiled is probably better if using as a finish by itself (or if you're gonna be painting over it soon). Having said one works better as a preservative and one works better as a finish, does NOT change anything about their eccentric behaviors as described in the previous paragraph.

In other words, linseed oil may not be your best choice for preserving or refinishing your patio table. More info would help. Good luck.

user1007 08-04-2012 03:30 PM

I like mixing processed, not raw, lindseed oil with a solvent and using it as a sealer for new interior wood trim. Search for posts about this as this comes up often. Look for some of the folks that have used a similar mixture for outdoor cabins.

I personally would not use it outside and especially not by itself without something over it. That said, some of the cabin owners have gotten 40-50 years out of the strategy but with regular attention to replenishing it. It will by nature discolor and chalk somewhat.

I think there are better alternatives for clear sealing redwood.

I built a lot of redwood decks and furniture when designing such things on the West Coast. As mentioned you really don't have to do a lot to it given its natural properties. Some people do not like that gray look mentioned and it can look weird if subjected to sprinkler overspray.

If it is redwood I would use a product with the least amount of pigment you can get away with to even out color. The more pigment you put on the more you should expect to add to maintenance so use a semi-transparent or a semi-solid stain and try to stay away from a solid one. That said, if you want the look of a solid stain? If prepped nicely you should still get a number of years out of solid acrylic stain like Sherwin Williams Woodscapes or the comparable Ben Moore product.

Whatever you do, do not use a wax based product like Thompson's. You will only get a season out of it if lucky and read posts on this site about mold and mildew getting into it and turning it black.


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