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JamesRW 01-06-2013 01:11 PM

Last ?? (for now)!
Looking for advice regarding caulking and painting -
First try, I used a 100% silicone for caulk between vinyl windows and the jamb AFTER painting.
Cons: It was messy, hard to get smooth, and I didn't like the shine or the fact that there is a color difference from the paint.
Pros: it doesn't shrink at all.
After some more research, I went with White Lightning 3006 - 40 Year Guarantee "Acrylic Latex with Silicone" (same mfr as SW that has a 50 Year Guarantee).
Pros: It was easier to work with and smooth out, and it takes paint so it matches the trim work.
Cons: Even though I waited some time (at least a week) between caulking and painting, I'm now seeing places where it shrunk quite a bit after the paint has cured. And it is already pulling away in places between the jamb and vinyl window.
What am I missing here?
(For touch ups - I bought the caulking that you can mix with paint - pricey - $12 a tube - but works well for places that were missed!:boat:

Brushjockey 01-06-2013 01:16 PM

Never- did i say never...yes I did..
Never use 100% silicone WHEREVER paint or any finish will ever have to go for the next 1000 years. Ever.

Silicone does what it does very well. REPELS EVERYTHING FOREVER.

If it doesn't say paintable- it probably isn't..
Sorry for the bad news.. Personal pet peav.
I find contractors that should know better do this all the time.
They usually are in for an earful...

Matthewt1970 01-06-2013 01:28 PM

SW is my go-to caulk now but I cannot verify White Lightning 3006 as being made by SW. Its not uncommon to have some pulling away after it dries if there were some areas that didn't stick 100%. My question would be where abouts are you that you are painting outdoors this time of year?

JamesRW 01-06-2013 01:40 PM

Best caulk for painting?
Sorry I wasn't more specific. It 's all interior painting. The windows are 100% vinyl - the interior jambs are wood - painted the same as the window trim casing.
As for the 100% silicone - I only used that on the windows in one room, then changed to the WL 3006.
(I may try to remove the silicone and redo with the 3006, but that's way down on the project list right now.)

Gymschu 01-06-2013 03:04 PM

I've always had great success with DAP (Alex) caulking. I've never had any problems with shrinkage, etc. I find that working the caulk into the gap with the tip of your finger is a fine art honed over many years. I've seen painters (and I hope I'm one of them) that can make those cracks/gaps disappear and make them look as if they are part of the woodwork.

jabbott 01-06-2013 03:12 PM

DAP Alex caulk is pretty much the standard for filling in gaps in molding an such before painting. And its less than $2 a tube at the big box stores.

chrisn 01-06-2013 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by jabbott (Post 1087689)
DAP Alex caulk is pretty much the standard for filling in gaps in molding an such before painting. And its less than $2 a tube at the big box stores.

not in my world:no:

jabbott 01-06-2013 04:43 PM


Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1087741)
not in my world:no:

It is over here. Just about every painter and contractor uses it.
Its cheap and it works.

Canarywood1 01-06-2013 05:09 PM

[QUOTE=jabbott;1087745]It is over here. Just about every painter and contractor uses it.
Its cheap and it works.

Probably why they use it!!

jeffnc 01-06-2013 09:18 PM

Alex is fine on interior stuff away from outside walls, but on interior windows I like Dynaflex 230 - it's better. I believe this is now Alex Ultra 230. It handles heat/cold changes and possible slight dampness better than Alex.

chrisn 01-07-2013 04:48 AM


Originally Posted by jabbott (Post 1087745)
It is over here. Just about every painter and contractor uses it.
Its cheap and it works.

yes it is

and not so well

there are countless ones that work better( IMO :whistling2:)

jsheridan 01-07-2013 05:42 AM

IMO, DAP is not a pro caulking, it's an HO/DIY caulk. The "pros" that I've seen use it over the years are new construction blow and go guys, and carpenters. When it's time for me to come add color to n/c walls, I have to deal with a fair amount of failed caulking. It doesn't maintain its flexibility. I used a premium DAP exterior caulk a few years back and within a couple days it split right down the middle and needed to be redone. It wouldn't hold up under the intense all day sun. If you pay cheap you get cheap. If you must buy caulk at HD, buy GE Groove. It's not cheap, but you don't get cheap either. For the most part, caulk interior is a gap filler/aesthetic material, but exterior it protects the painted surface from moisture damage/penetration. Don't skimp on protection.

Mr. Paint 01-07-2013 12:56 PM

JamesRW: You are using a good caulk. In most instances I've seen, when someone complains about shrinkage and pulling away, it is because of too thin of a bead. I find that experienced painters have learned to put on enough caulk and not wipe most of it away when they smooth it out. That takes practice. Concentrate on leaving mot of the caulk where you put it.

jsheridan 01-07-2013 05:32 PM

The problem with poor caulking jobs, as MrPaint says, is that guys move the gun too quickly along the gap. They end up only bridging the gap, rather than filling it, and when the caulk shrinks it pulls away. Speed is what determines the amount of caulk applied. Speed the movement up along the narrow gap and slow down on the wider areas. Use a wet finger and wet rag to smooth.

Mr. Paint 01-07-2013 05:36 PM

A contractor freind of mine buys baby wipes as Costco to use on caulking; no messy rags - just throw it away and grab another one. :)

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