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how to work with zinisser BIN shellac primer

7K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Brushjockey 
#1 ·
I've read that Zinisser BIN is hard to work with, watery, increased smell
and hard to clean up. I wanted to use it to prime the interior of a house where a wood burning furnace was used and there are also a few spots of mildew. Can you give some tips on using this primer
roller nap type of brush etc. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Bin is a shellac- another words it has an denatured alcohol base. It has a very strong alcohol ( denatured- not booze) smell that can be tough in small or unventilated areas.
It dries very fast and is thin bodied.
Using in quantity is really not a DIY thing- tell us more about your situation and we might be able to offer alternatives to BIN.
 
#3 ·
Thanks so much for your reply!! I have purchased a small house for my dad to move into. It was heated with a woodburning furnace so the walls and ceilings have what looks to be soot or just discolored. The are 2 areas where there was some mold / mildew from a leaking window. I used a clorox solution over the mildew and have cleaned the walls and ceilings w/ TSP and rinsed. I' looking for an approriate primer. The walls are plaster (not wall board, thicker) Is there a reasonable alternative to BIN to use to prime the walls and ceilings, as the more I read about BIN
the high VOC s sound like they are a problem:(
 
#4 ·
Sounds like you have done the right thing with cleaning. I would try a less toxic solution first- get Zinnser Smart Prime ( only one gal for test) and see if that holds back any browning coming through.
you have to know the difference between just coverage- meaning the paint didn't block out the earlier color- than bleeding - which is a stain chemically coming through the primer.
Almost all primers are not good at coverage- paints are better at that. but the stains need to be stopped first.
This primer is a waterborne alkyd hybrid- meaning it applies and clean up like a latex, bit works like an oil.
 
#5 ·
I'm taking back the BIN tommorrow and trading it for the Smart Prime!
I 'm hoping the walls are just dingy ,will prime a bedroom and see how it goes. If any thing is going to bleed through how long does it usually take so I know if it's ok and apply my paint. (had read your quote on ask first... when looking through the posts very glad I did!:thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
if something is going to bleed - it will do it while the primer is drying- once dry and the moisture gone- the stain will show.
If you end up with a small spot here or there coming through the smart prime you can just spot prime those with the bin- not the whole room.
 
#7 ·
And if it is bleeding it will look like it is trying to become one with the primer. As mentioned, do not confuse a bit of show through.

Hopefully the other stain blocking primer will work for you, especially since you prepped correctly and it was soot. I used BIN mainly in homes where heavy smokers lived. There is no better product for covering all the tar and other chemical stains.
 
#8 ·
BIN is the number-one choice for priming after smoke damage. The residues are water-extractive. Som latex primers may draw a stain into the film and lock it there. Try the Wonder Prime. If you see staining, don't be alarmed. Let it sit for two days and then apply some finish over it. If the stain doesn't bleed into the finish, you have solved the problem.
 
#9 ·
BIN is the number-one choice for priming after smoke damage. The residues are water-extractive. Som latex primers may draw a stain into the film and lock it there. Try the Wonder Prime. If you see staining, don't be alarmed. Let it sit for two days and then apply some finish over it. If the stain doesn't bleed into the finish, you have solved the problem.

what is this?
 
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