We live in Bay area, CA, between San Francisco and San Jose, and we are building a new deck using kiln dry cedar decking..
The deck surface is about 12” from the ground. The frame has already been completed (poured concrete, Simpson post bases, 2x6 pressure treated lumber) with ~4” space under framing for ventilation. The deck is on the NNE side of the house and so, although there is some roof overhang over the portion of the deck adjacent the house, much of its surface will be exposed to 7+ hours of sun.
Our boards had a rough surface, and our supplier sent it to mill to surface it. We are about to receive our 2”x4” cedar decking from the mill. We want to see the beauty of the wood. We will use hidden fasteners and set a 3/16 gap using CAMO NB tool.
Qs:
- it a brand new boards, and kiln dry wood. According to what we read, it shouldn’t change dimension too much, and the only thing which can be there is “mill burn”. Should we wait for a month or more to let the boards become gray (oxidize), then use cleaner and brightener to remove “mill glaze” , and only after that start to stain? Or it will be enough to put a little water on the boards to see if wood absorbs the water, or if we have the “drops” somewhere on the on the surface, and use #60(or #100?) paper to “rough”it, then vacuum, and stain?
- What stain is the best? Transparent or semi-transparent, i.e. is there a difference in how long it will survive without re-staining, if we choose very light natural type stain? Which brand? We heard that Armstrong Clark, TWP, Defy are very reliable, but why Consumer reports named Bern, even we read a lot of awful stories about it?
- Should we use 1 or 2 coats?
- Should we brush it on everywhere or roll the surface and brush only between the boards? What brand of roller or brush?
- Is there anything else we should have considered?
Thank you very much,
Isabella
The deck surface is about 12” from the ground. The frame has already been completed (poured concrete, Simpson post bases, 2x6 pressure treated lumber) with ~4” space under framing for ventilation. The deck is on the NNE side of the house and so, although there is some roof overhang over the portion of the deck adjacent the house, much of its surface will be exposed to 7+ hours of sun.
Our boards had a rough surface, and our supplier sent it to mill to surface it. We are about to receive our 2”x4” cedar decking from the mill. We want to see the beauty of the wood. We will use hidden fasteners and set a 3/16 gap using CAMO NB tool.
Qs:
- it a brand new boards, and kiln dry wood. According to what we read, it shouldn’t change dimension too much, and the only thing which can be there is “mill burn”. Should we wait for a month or more to let the boards become gray (oxidize), then use cleaner and brightener to remove “mill glaze” , and only after that start to stain? Or it will be enough to put a little water on the boards to see if wood absorbs the water, or if we have the “drops” somewhere on the on the surface, and use #60(or #100?) paper to “rough”it, then vacuum, and stain?
- What stain is the best? Transparent or semi-transparent, i.e. is there a difference in how long it will survive without re-staining, if we choose very light natural type stain? Which brand? We heard that Armstrong Clark, TWP, Defy are very reliable, but why Consumer reports named Bern, even we read a lot of awful stories about it?
- Should we use 1 or 2 coats?
- Should we brush it on everywhere or roll the surface and brush only between the boards? What brand of roller or brush?
- Is there anything else we should have considered?
Thank you very much,
Isabella