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Old 02-13-2012, 12:09 AM   #16
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Homeowner In Need of Exterior Pro Painting Job Failure Advise


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Any power fans or turbines on the roof to vent the attic? Are the wiring/plumbing holes in the crawlspace floor air sealed with canned foam? Are there any outlets on that wall right where most of the peeling paint is? The siding requires gaps under it as it is lap siding. Any moisture in the wall has to come out, especially on the sunny-side, driven in- similar to:http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-brick-veneer except the moisture is driven up the wall cavity due to the temperature/pressure differences from the damp crawlspace.
I'd drive some wedges under the siding on that side only, photo #4: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...oss-enclosures
There was one power vent on old shake roof that stopped working, which we have replaced with full-length ridge vent. It was pretty drafty when I opened up the crawlspace hatch, though likely not foam sealed. Re outlets on walls with peeling paint, that's positive, along with windows too.

Thanks to all replies, especially jsheridan & ric knows paint & GBR in WA about siding wedges and/or 1" ventilating louvers ideas. These redwood sidings don't appear to be stacked/laddered on top of each others, any pointers on where to look on removal instruction?


Last edited by RX8tasy; 02-13-2012 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:13 AM   #17
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Not a great idea, why would you add plants that would shield it more not less.
Never a good idea to have any plants right up againt any siding.
The idea was suggested by one of painters during estimate stage, since the siding with previous paint failure was hot to touch. We would allow 6in clearance space between plant & siding for ventilation and shade. Is it a no-go?
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:18 AM   #18
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Homeowner In Need of Exterior Pro Painting Job Failure Advise


RX, as to the plants, they a become permanent impediment to access. And could they be effective without turning that side into a forest? For me, as a painter, to suggest that would mean I have no hope, intention, or desire to ever bid on your exterior in the future.
You mentioned about checking vents for impediments. That's fine, but proper ventilation, breathing, requires the proper square ft areas of inflow and outflow based on the sq footage of your attic, and all in the proper ratio and balance. With crawlspaces, there are additional considerations, such as vapor barrier, that affect your consideration. Whole house ventilation also requires consideration of sidewall structure/materials and moisture producing areas inside and their venting as well. There are a lot of your type of home in my area. There's one house (a customer) that has practically no outflow at the roof line (has a ventilated crawl) and definitely does not look comfortable in its own skin. There are all sorts of indicators that moisture is not being handled properly, it's all stucco and there are large areas where the screen and fasteners are seriously rusting out/through, areas where the stucco is bulging, there appears to be rot damage at the roof line under the aluminum capping where you can see distortion, etc. I explained this to the homeowner/mason/builder of the home, and he looks at me like I have three heads. I am not an expert on this topic, but I'm trying to get him to hire one. A home inspector with a solid understanding of whole house ventilation might be what you need to get the moisture under control and your house in balance. That's a 3-4 hundred dollar consultation/report in the Philly area, but a worthy outlay. Good Luck.

Last edited by jsheridan; 02-13-2012 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:18 PM   #19
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Homeowner In Need of Exterior Pro Painting Job Failure Advise


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Thanks jsheridan for the welcome!

Exterior was powerwashed on Fri morning, with crews starting prep the following Wed, and completing Thu late afternoon (2day). So about four/five days elapsed. How long should it be?

As for someone on the hook, painters expect us to remedy crawlspace water issue before repainting. We are fine with it, though not certain if that's the cure. Remember that the paint prior had the same issues to content with, but never this bad.
First question is this did you have lose cracking paint to start with? Second did they just power wash off the lose paint?
let me know. As for your crawl space get a vapor barrier on the dirt!
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:04 PM   #20
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People are calling this lap siding, but correct me, if Im wron; this is tounge-and-groove redwood siding. I live on the Peninsula and have the exact same construction. Is it possible that the contractor caulked the horizontal gaps? If that rep wanted to, he can ask someone from our (Kelly-Moore) corporate office to look at it. I think Ric has a valid point in the straw breaking this camel's back.

BTW: If you need to put in a French drain, then do it. NEVER allow water to stand under your house. It can create mold and dry-rot problems that will make the drain sem cheap
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:26 PM   #21
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Its also called Lap siding and if they caulked the horizontal joints your house is sweating.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:24 AM   #22
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http://www.wedgevent.com/
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:05 AM   #23
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I have gone out on complaints where the painter did an almost automobile finish on siding and caulked the horizontal joints. This is like taping a fish's gills shut. The house vapors cannot escape; they turn to water and cause the paint film to rupture. Even a building has to breathe...

Your siding shows a history of peeling. The existing coating should be removed. I recommend Back to Nature Multi-Strip to do this.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:29 AM   #24
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http://www.paintshaver.com/paintshaver.html
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:17 PM   #25
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When I Pressuer wash a home I wait one week! Min so the siding can dry out. It looks like they washed then painted right a way. Not good.
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:48 PM   #26
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and Feb'12 for comparsion:







That picture there shows me dead wood on the surface and you can see it stuck to the paint that is peeling off. Much like deck boards you need to get the surface down to undamaged wood or get primer that will soak in better. And orbital sander will make quick work of it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:40 PM   #27
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If that rep wanted to, he can ask someone from our (Kelly-Moore) corporate office to look at it.
Hi Mr. Paint,

Would it be possible for me to seek your help in sending someone from KM corporate to take a look? I tried but can't find your PM (private messaging) being enabled. The job was done with KM products if you might recall from my post. Your assistance is much appreciated! Please PM me with your contact info.

So the whole perimeter french drain was completed in 2012 year-end, and the crawlspace remained dry through a few minor storms we have had since. The original paint contractor is ready to do the same as before -- powerwash, scrap/sand/prime/paint. I'm uncertain whether the outcome would be any different this time around. I highly value the paint contractor for commitment on the re-do, but just want to make sure all issues are investigated/considered/resolved.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:44 PM   #28
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Call me toll-frr: 888 677-2468 (888 MR PAINT)
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #29
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Is this siding wood or Homosote board, which is basically highly compressed paper? Homosote has had a lot of problems like this. Check this out if it applies to you. Sorry for the size, I just copied and pasted it.
Boise Cascade Hardboard Siding Failures Information

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Last edited by jagans; 04-24-2013 at 08:34 PM.
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