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packer_rich 11-06-2012 03:07 PM

high gloss trim
 
I'm tryig to get a high gloss finish to the white intertior trim in my home. I am using BM Regal select pearl finish. I chose this paint on the recommendation of the paint store salesman. I' trying to get an extremely smooth and high gloss finish. He asured me the paint would dry with no visible brush or roller marks. I'm having trouble accomplishing this. Most of the trim is pine, with some MDF baseboard. I have been testing the paint on some small pieces to start with and I always end up with brush or roller marks. Any help? Thanks Rich

AirKingFS 11-06-2012 03:19 PM

A high-gloss or semi-gloss finish might get you closer to the effect you want than a pearl finish.

joecaption 11-06-2012 03:32 PM

What are you using for a brush and roller?
Add a small amount of Flotrol will aid in getting the paint to self level.

user1007 11-06-2012 03:35 PM

Not sure why the paint store recommended a pearl finish if you told the person you wanted a high gloss. I should think he would have pointed you to at least the highest semi-gloss sheen, not just perhaps the most popular, in the Regal line. Pearl has a softer sheen, between satin and semi-gloss. For the life of me I cannot find my sheen chart to look up what is the highest sheen in the regal line! I suspect I loaned it and never got it back.

However, as far as I remember, Ben Moore's highest gloss acrylic product for wood and metal is Impervex and its oil-based cousin is Impervo. Either would work well for you trim I should think. If a high gloss is what you want. In any event, take back what you have.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....jpg?1314356130

Now as for getting a glass like finish. Are you using a really good quality (Purdy or Wooster are brands that come to mind) 2.5 inch angled sash brush and rinsing it out thoroughly as you go if for some reason it is building up on you? You cannot expect to achieve a nice finish with a discount brush.

You have prepped the surface correctly? If this is new pine, or MDF, you need to seal and prime it first for sure. Then give it a light post-sealer sanding. If it is previously painted wood you need to at least scruff it up to improve adhesion. You may find it worth you efforts to lay on a coat of enamel underlay before your two finish coats.

Their are additives/conditioners like Floetrol you can add to acrylics, but only to the extent indicated on the bottles, that extend their work time and fill in brush marks. You shouldn't really need them with a good brush and paint product.

A common mistake newbies and those who do not paint trim often make is over working it. Acrylics do surface skin within minutes so if you keep feathering out the surface you can over work and carve into them. And remember, acrylics can take up to 30 days to fully cure so be patient to a point.

Since you have to get new paint anyhow, do think about using an off-white rather than a white, white. In the Ben Moore line I used lots of atrium white and super white, for example. They each look better with wood floors and cabinetry and not quite so stark against most wall colors. Your eye still reads them as white trim. The tiny amount of black, etc. dripped in each gallon makes them look cleaner and even cover a bit better.

DannyT 11-06-2012 03:50 PM

add the floetrol like joe suggested and don't over brush it. lay it on and smooth it out and then leave it alone. that is the one reason i use the BM impervo oil. it dries way slower and the brush and roller marks disappear before it dries. the floetrol will make a big difference tho.

user1007 11-06-2012 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyT (Post 1046034)
add the floetrol like joe suggested and don't over brush it. lay it on and smooth it out and then leave it alone. that is the one reason i use the BM impervo oil. it dries way slower and the brush and roller marks disappear before it dries. the floetrol will make a big difference tho.

Note that Floetrol is only for watebased paints! Penetrol is its cousin for oil-based. You will not need it if you paint with impervo.

Adding Floetrol to the the pearl finish you have is not going to raise the sheen of what you have though. You have the wrong paint for what you are trying to achieve.

chrisn 11-06-2012 05:09 PM

As already stated pearl is nowhere near a gloss finish.:no:

Brushjockey 11-06-2012 05:27 PM

To make a brushed finish really smooth comes with years of experience, in my experience.
To think you can get it flawless right out of the chute is putting an expectation on yourself that is unreasonable.
Extender helps. technique is everything. Knowing the product and how to manipulate it.

Going for hi gloss, or even semi gloss is a lofty goal. That is one reason satin is so popular.

packer_rich 11-06-2012 05:48 PM

Tghanks for all the resposes. I have 4 purdy brushes, but I don't by any particular brand of roller. The ones I have are 3/8" nap. I have some flotrol and will try a small container with that. I only use latex and not oil base.

ltd 11-06-2012 06:00 PM

imho xim extender is a much better paint conditioner than flotrol:).most times i just use a shot of warter from the spicket:eek:.there is a skill to painting trim.good painters pride them selfs in laying on a nice finish.

pinkfloyd43 11-06-2012 06:32 PM

I just did this in a few rooms on crown moulding. I rolled on a somewhat thick coat and then brushed it out. It came out really perfect. I had done some other room with HVLP sprayer and didn't like the results as thinning and spraying seemed to kill some of the 'high-gloss'. I hate to say it but I used a BEHR 8050 Exterior High Gloss as that is what was one it before and wanted it to match........I know better know about behr paint.....

info2x 11-06-2012 06:48 PM

The BM advance line works really well for trim from my limited experience. It dries slow like an oil.

user1007 11-06-2012 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by info2x (Post 1046192)
The BM advance line works really well for trim from my limited experience. It dries slow like an oil.

Advance high gloss might be worth a shot. It was fairly new when I was leaving the business so I do not have much experience with it. It is a waterbased alkyd formula and does have an extended work time and self-leveling qualities like an oil-based finish.

Not sure if it will yellow or chalk over time as it leaves an alkyd film, like an oil solvent finish. This is usually not a problem with acrylic products like Ben Moore Impervex.

OP must try something other than a pearl sheen. And don't forget the sealer primer or you will be sorry. Some shellac on any knot would not be a bad idea either since your trim is pine.

ToolSeeker 11-06-2012 08:39 PM

Personally I really like pro classic from SW. Having said that the truth is, the first time I used it I hated it. Found out I was over working it and it would start to get thick. Just brush it on and leave it alone and the levelers work fine. I thinned it to spray it, that didn't work out very well. I really like high gloss but does take some practice. Good luck

MEE123 11-08-2012 01:47 PM

I thought I had to use oil or a hybrid or laquer or something hard on trim. I can use a latex wall paint like regal? Seems like it would be alot easier to build it up, if so. Advance is a nice finish but a pain in the keester (i.e. multiple real thin coats required). Why don't people do regal or aura on trim more? Not hard enough/rubbery finish? all the older guys I've asked generally use satin impervo oil if we're talking BM and the younger guys use advance. OP if you want a real shiny old school finish, you could try the new BM fine entrance stuff or whatver it is called (go to BM's site) it is a copy cat or atempted copy of the fine paint of europe's grand entrance; or just go with advance in the gloss. I would fire your paint store for refering you to a latex lower sheen when you told them you wanted a really shiny finish on trim that would level. Also, if you're worried about brush marks you might dial it back a notch on the sheen so they won't be so prominent.


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