Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Painting

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-29-2008, 06:51 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Western Masschusetts
Posts: 575
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Hi,
I'll soon be prepping my entire house for painting. All trim is lead paint, in very tight condition. I'll just be scuffing.

I want to invest in a good respirator anyway, one that covers the entire face and eyes.

Looking at something like this: http://www.amazon.com/MSA-Safety-Wor...5324083&sr=8-2

No reviews, so hard to know.

Would this be good for dealing with lead paint?

Thanks.

wombosi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2008, 07:05 PM   #2
Tired, Cold, and Damp
 
slickshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 3,089
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Though I can't really comment on the lead removal aspect, I can say I am not familiar with that brand
I'd stick with AOSafety or 3M off-hand
A good full face from your local store should be between 100 and 200
That might seem spendy, but don't be cheap as your health is at stake
It should be comfortable, as if it's not you are less likely to wear it

Also, remember that it won't help if you don't follow the exact procedures outlined in the abatement courses, or from the EPA if DIY abatement is legal in your area

slickshift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2008, 09:38 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 551
Rewards Points: 502
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Scuff-sanding is a "belt and suspenders" kind of step. I would MUCH rather use liquid de-glosser (aka "Liquid Sandpaper") followed by an oil-base primer over sanding. Much less in the way of health hazard.

SirWired
sirwired is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2008, 06:42 AM   #4
Mold!! Let's kill it!
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,849
Rewards Points: 2,012
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Nothing wrong with MSA respirators. The important thing is that it fits properly and seals against your face. It should have an N-95 rating. Next is to make sure you use the correct filter cartridges. They must have P-100 printed on them for particulates. Don't use organic vapor cartidges.
Maintenance 6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #5
Member
 
Matthewt1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,797
Rewards Points: 1,034
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Quote:
Originally Posted by sirwired View Post
Scuff-sanding is a "belt and suspenders" kind of step. I would MUCH rather use liquid de-glosser (aka "Liquid Sandpaper") followed by an oil-base primer over sanding. Much less in the way of health hazard.

SirWired
I got to go with that method for my recommendation. If that paint has lead it is atleast 30 years old. Lead paint was banned in the 70's, so I can't imagine there is too much gloss left.
Matthewt1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2008, 11:31 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 156
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Also remember you can absorb lead through your skin etc.. so wear gloves.

Best of luck, and liquid deglosser sounds like a great safe idea.
240sx4u is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2008, 03:18 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 323
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


There are a few issues with this approach. (We had a lead inspection and remediation in our house, so I'm passing along what we learned.) First, any lead dust will eventually go down to the floor, so you'll need a way to vacuum it up with a HEPA filter vacuum. Secondly, assuming you don't have any kids, the dust can still linger around for other kids to absorb. One partial solution is to use a spray bottle and mist the area as you are sanding. This will make a little wet mess, but will limit the dust. Also, you can't track the dust into other rooms. Where the blue booties, protective overalls, etc. and remove the clothing in that room. It really takes a methodical approach to cleaning, too. Another option -- depending on how many layers of paint there is -- is to strip the paint (Multi-strip is great, although pricey). MUCH more work, but if you already have 10 layers, like we have/had, then it's the right way to go. Otherwise new layers won't last long. Good luck.
Allison1888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2008, 09:10 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,264
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Help Choosing Full Face Respirator for Lead Paint


Since when can you absorb lead through your skin?

If it were me, I'd get a respirator, but not a full face one that covers the eyes. I can imagine the inside of that thing just fogging up with humidity, and not being able to see out of it. Besides, any dust is going to stick to wet skin and can just be washed off at the end of the day.

I recently bought a new half face respirator made by 3M. It's good quality in my view. To check that it fits well, place your palm over the exhalation port (usually there will only be one in the middle of the mask) and exhale. The rubber face cover of the mask should inflate a lot rather than leak. Similarily, place both palms over the inhalation ports (usually two of them where the dust filters are) and inhale. The rubber face cover should shrink onto your face (due to the difference in air pressure) a lot rather than leak. That's how you test a respirator for fit.

Also, I don't know how real that threat of lead is. My understanding is that it's mostly a concern to newborn babies because the lead gets incorporated into the growing tissues of their bodies. Adults simply don't grow as fast, and so much less of the lead we're exposed to isn't incorporated into our bodies.

If you look at plumbers, it's common for them to be sanding the lead solder out of fittings and off the ends of pipes. And, that actually sanding a metal allow that was mostly lead, and creating fine dust to be inhaled without so much as a dust mask over their faces. I'm not saying that you should sand the lead based paint without any protection of any kind. I'm just saying that plumbers have sanded lead solder off of pipes for their entire careers and yet that seems to be of no concern whereas the lead based pigments in old paints are. Sumfin doesn't jive here.

Anyhow, I agree that SirWired's idea of roughening the old lead based paint with a chemical deglosser (like Liquid Sandpaper) is a much safer way to avoid lead exposure than sanding that paint directly.

(Does anyone know why no one's screaming bloody blue murder over the fact that no one's telling plumbers not to sand the old solder off of copper pipes and out of copper and brass fittings?)


Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 11-02-2008 at 09:16 PM.
Nestor_Kelebay is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Flat over Semi-Gloss dankreboot Painting 21 02-24-2013 07:46 PM
Dark over light...Do I need tinted primer? melissaandkris Painting 17 09-09-2011 10:43 AM
semi gloss enamel vs eggshell enamel NoExperience Painting 18 03-05-2009 04:57 AM
Flashing NoExperience Painting 13 09-04-2008 05:56 AM
Semi gloss on Semi gloss mattpricemn Painting 6 08-25-2008 07:18 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.