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Old 08-22-2008, 07:22 PM   #1
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Good hiding primer


Looking for suggestions for primer over graffiti. I work for a city parks department and on occasion have to repaint areas with graffiti. Nothing removes some of this stuff, any suggestions there also appreciated.

I usually wind up using several coats of whatever primer, then several coats of paint I had last for what ever job that was- sign posts, shop bathroom. Remember, this is govt work where nobody gives a rip. Sometimes I have the luxury of getting a job together without interference and then actually have a choice. Locally, we have a HD, SW, and Porter's.

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Last edited by downunder; 08-24-2008 at 10:50 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:39 PM   #2
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Good hiding primer


Best sealer to keep stuff from bleeding through is shellac
Your local sources probably have either or all:
Zinsser's BIN, Insl-X's Seal-Lock, or the Sherwin Williams brand white pigmented shellacs
Although Zinsser's BIN is probably the oldest on the market, and the best known, I'd say for your purposes go for best price

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Old 08-23-2008, 11:10 AM   #3
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Good hiding primer


Thanks slickshift

That's what I would use if I was going over say, knotholes in old pine or something. This particular problem is something I've gotten stuck with a few times in the last couple of years. As I mentioned, I try to balance the quality of my personal work with "get it done" government work. Sometimes they tell me they want this or that painted, give me a purchase order and I go get what I need. (Snuck in a couple of Purdy brushes the other day!!!!)

Last week I had a bathroom in a new park that some local gangs had tagged. Having formal opening on Saturday, got started about 10:30 Friday morning after two other little projects, day is over at 4:00. Work lunch in, mothers bringing kids "got to go" interruptions, NO help, and you get the idea. Waaah

Thanks,
Richard

Did I mention they brought me Oil primer in a 10x10 cement block bathroom with no ventilation and 3/8 roller covers? And then got out the backpack blowers to clean the parking lot twenty feet from the building at 2:30!
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:53 AM   #4
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Good hiding primer


My father was involved with anti graffiti work in Philadelphia a few years ago and they had various chemicals used to remove and cover the stuff. Perhaps some at this link can give you some real-world advice on what works best:
http://www.phila.gov/antigraffiti/faq.html

An alternative commercial site:
http://uscoatingsolutions.com/anti-graffiti.html
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:04 PM   #5
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Good hiding primer


I disagree with Slickshift to buy on price.

Good hide in a primer primarily comes from the amount of titaniu dioxide in it, and titanium dioxide is probably the most expensive pigment used in architectural primers and paints.

So, to get a primer with good hide, and therefore lots of TiO2, you need to pay more for the extra TiO2. Otherwise you're just going to be putting on extra coats of primer or paint, and that just means extra work.

If the government is paying for the primer, buy a higher hiding primer for more money, and put on fewer coats.
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Old 08-23-2008, 06:38 PM   #6
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Good hiding primer


If the government is paying for the primer,


Yea,put our tax dollars to good use.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:20 PM   #7
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Good hiding primer


chrisn-

A little break here please. Not a government waste providing parks and recreation areas to the taxpayers. The point about the govt work was that it often is not up to my personal standards and is usually based on hurry up and get it done and I often have to use whatever was left from the last job. Irregardless of who makes the purchase, you generally get (job quality) what you pay for. Buy the first cheap materials you can find, that's what kind of job you wind up with. This work has to be done because of vandalism to free parks that are open to the public 24/7. The alternative would be to close it in, and charge folks to use them. Not in Small Town, USA

NK-
I see and agree with your point on price. Always taught to buy the best tools I can afford. A GOOD wrench will hold the bolt, won't round it off, bust your knuckles, have to get another tool to remove the now-damaged bolt, then go buy the good wrench you should have had in the first place.

I suggest that holds true for material quality as well. It has never taken me anymore time to do it right the first time than wrong three times!

BOB-
I will go to that site and check it out. I have checked with every local cleaning supply distributor and tried every product available here.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:16 PM   #8
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Good hiding primer


Downunder:

Chrisn wasn't serious.

When people are serious, they don't end their posts with a

Which is a smiley face yodeling.

That's kind of a secret code we have in here.

Also, never ever end a post with "wtf ?!?!?" unless you mean it.

That means you've swallowed a golf ball.

Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 08-24-2008 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 08-24-2008, 08:28 AM   #9
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Good hiding primer


Instead of trying to hide with the primer (primers generally suck at hiding), why not apply one coat of the shellac-based to seal the junk in, and then one or two coats of inexpensive high-hide paint? I would think that this would save oodles of time over using many coats of primer to hide. You have to topcoat with paint anyway, and the paint is MUCH better than hiding than most primers.

There are special high-hide primers available, but I wouldn't use them unless they were much cheaper than the paint.

SirWired
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:09 AM   #10
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Good hiding primer


sirwired,

Thank you for making me re-read the original post and realizing that I had not made myself clear. I have edited it and hopefully asked the point more appropriately.

The end goal that I want to get to is to have the graffiti covered well enought so that at least it is not visible enough to be offensive. I should not have painted myself into the corner (pardon the pun) of HAVING TO USE A PRIMER to hide. Just that the traditional method of re-priming, then painting, does not cover well enough. I have used shellac in the past, mainly over knotholes to prevent rosin bleedthrough.

So, considering that paint will not stick to some of the materials used in the graffiti, the question actually should be:
Which primer will give the best result at preventing the bleed through?
How many coats?
Which, if any suggestions, is a durable topcoat that hides well?

BOB:
The US Coatings looks promising. I have forwarded that page to my appropriate people to look at. THEY have the money!

To all:
Second time this year I've been wrong. I'll admit when it happens. But, I've been mistaken a lot of times.

Good day to all!

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