I recently bought a pre finished pine bedroom set (night stands, bed frame, dresser, etc.)
Here is a picture of the dresser:
I was thinking of putting another coat of satin polyurethane on the top surfaces of the dresser and night stands because the current finish seems really easy to scratch with your finger nail. Do I need to be concerned with compatibility with the current finish and a new coat or two of satin poly? Or can I just scuff the top surfaces and brush on a couple coats?
I'm not sure what the current finish is. Is there an easy way to tell?
The place you bought it from should be able to answer that question, if not they can find out. That's the best way if possible, and save you a lot guess work and effort.
Another solution is to have a sheet of glass cut to the size of the top surface and lay that on top for protection. I did that for 2 bedroom dressers and it protected them for 20 years.
Factories commonly use lacquer but it can be also other finishes previoulsy done by someone else.
Begin by applying with a small cotton ball with alcohol. If the finish is shellac (or “spirit varnish”) in short order the alcohol will begin to dissolve the finish and it will becomes noticeably soft and a bit sticky to the touch. If nothing happens, move to step two.
Apply with a small cotton ball with lacquer thinner to another area. If this causes the finish to soften then it may be lacquer. The next question is; how old is the piece? If it is over ten to fifteen year old (and has not been refinished recently) it is most certainly lacquer. However, if the piece was made (or refinished) within the last fifteen years it may also be a water-borne finish—lacquer thinner will also soften water-borne finishes. To test for water-borne proceed to step three.
Finally, apply with cotton ball with xylene in another area. If the xylene softens the finish it is most definitely a water-borne finish.
Thanks guys. I will think about the glass idea. I'm not sure about doing that on the night stands though.
I just received a response from the manufacturer. Here is what they said:
"The stain we use is supplied by Sherwin Williams and is a lacquered stain. Unfortunately we do not have a color listing from them, but if you would take a small drawer into the store they could mix a stain to match."
Is there something I can use that is compatible with the lacquered stain to build up the finish so it won't scratch as easily? Thanks for the help fellas!
If the manufacture said they used Sherwin Williams Lacquer you should just go to Sherwin Williams and buy Sher-Wood CAB-Acrylic Lacquer, clear. An acrylic formula will be clearer than an oil base or shellac. It is not recommended to apply a polyurethane over a lacquer finish.
Thanks for all the help guys! The furniture is brand new, so there are no repairs currently needed. I just noticed on the floor model at the store, the finish scratches really easy with my finger nail. Probably because it is a soft wood.
Would going through the hassle of applying a few coats of satin polyurethane to the top surfaces solve this problem?
Also, do you folks recommend water-based, or oil-based poly?
If you drove a new car home from the showroom would you paint over it to protect the finish? That's a factory professional spray job. You wont come near it with a brush and you will be disappointed. Just be careful with your new furniture and put a tablecloth on the top to protect it.
If you can get oil base polyurethane in San Francisco, it would be great. Brush on is easier to use than water polyurethane. I live in Los Angeles where AQMD banned it.:furious:
Poor guy, California (use Arnold voice) must be environmental hell. Don't think much chance for improvement with Gov Moonbeam in office.
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