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Old 03-29-2011, 09:56 PM   #16
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


Oh and I used mud not spackle not sure if that matters

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Old 03-29-2011, 10:09 PM   #17
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


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Originally Posted by cvcman View Post
Humm explain something to me.... If the water in the mud didnt bubble it how can the water in the paint IF I used laytex get thru the mud and bubble it ?

And...how come oil paint will seal it and not bubble the paper ?? I would think the mositure in the wet oil paint would bubble too ?

I had these walls wet like crazy while washing them and none of these spots were bubbling...

Oh well
If I could answer half your questions, or follow them, I'd be a scientist, not a painter. How about you put the oil on the walls and see what you have after they dry? Sometimes a second skim coat of spackle will cause a bubble if you spackled over brown paper, and latex paint will definitely cause it. It's the water, not the liquid. Spackle is a water based compound. If you don't have it, don't question why you don't have it, just consider yourself lucky and paint it.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:12 PM   #18
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


I'm pretty sure at least 3 people besides me said prime it. You are correct, it will probably not bubble. But if it does, cut out the bubble PRIME THE SPOT before remudding, remud, reprime and then paint.
If it does bubble, it won't be from moisture because it's oil, it will be because the mud was applied to flaky paper and is not secure.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:14 PM   #19
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


Humm NOT spackle its mud I need to light sand and finish masking then oil prime. I just didnt understand how the laytex paint could seep thru the mud and bubble the paper...But yet oil wont.. The spots really are not that big so I dont expect a problem.

if after the oil primer goes on and all is smooth I should be fine right ?
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:19 PM   #20
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


Yup and others said skim then oil prime and do NOT use Guardz...So everyone has their opinion. The reason after hearing these guys and my paint store agreed the oil primer was best in their "opinion" thats why i went that way. Not saying anyone is right or wrong...Just different opinions.
Again the paper is tight and not loose at all after washing the walls and it didnt even bubble a little when I mudded it...

But I will do what you say, if it bubbles I will cut it out, oil spot prime then reskim sand and prime...But if it doesnt prime I should be good to top with 2 coats of laytex flat and should see a problem right ?
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:21 PM   #21
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


I'm guessing based on OPs attitude no one else will take the time (wrong on that one, wasn't I?) I'm bored and hate ignorance.

Quote:
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Humm explain something to me.... If the water in the mud didnt bubble it how can the water in the paint IF I used laytex get thru the mud and bubble it ?
The ACRYLIC RESINS in the LATEX paint forms a skin. The moisture in the LATEX paint is WATER. Water trapped behind the acrylic skin when in contact with the raw drywall can result in bubbles. Water in the mud may have bubbled but there was nothing to trap it, so they dissipated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cvcman
And...how come oil paint will seal it and not bubble the paper ?? I would think the mositure in the wet oil paint would bubble too ?
OIL paint 'moisture' is OIL in old fashioned oil paint (duh, right?). Modern oil paint is really alkyd paint that is made with alcohols and organic acids. So the 'moisture' in oil based paint BEHAVES chemically differently than latex paint. The 'oil' will not cause the same off-gassing that water causes.

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I had these walls wet like crazy while washing them and none of these spots were bubbling...

Oh well
See above; as to why you didn't see bubbles when washing the walls.

Good luck. Hope some actual explanation helps.
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Last edited by Leah Frances; 03-29-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:28 PM   #22
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


Humm makes sense ! Guess thats why the paint guys said that IF I felt there was ANY glue residue on the walls to oil prime all walls before top coating. That way the oil will seal in any glue residue. I feel 95% I got all the glue off but I already paid 30.00 for the Ben Moore oil primer so im gonna use it.

I never primed any of the other walls I removed the paper on but I must have gotten lucky because they have been done a few years and the look fine.

Thanks for explaining

I dont look forward to using it because I think of oil paint as a big mess but I will take my time. Again like brush said if after priming I see any bubbles I will cut them out, oil prime remud reprime and top coat.

If I never see wallpaper again I will be happy
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:30 PM   #23
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fixing torn sheetrock paper


Dont take my questioning as a bad attitude, there are some on here with a far worse attitude than I ever thought of having...
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:49 PM   #24
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I'm a relative DIY N00B, it is easier for me if I really understand WHY I need to do something.

If you aren't 100% sure about paint prep (glue etc) then you will probably have some paint failure down the road.
The problem with paint is that problems often take a while to rear their ugly heads. Your other paint jobs may look ok, for now.

A good paint job for me usually 70-80% prep work. The 'painting' is the easy part.

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