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Old 04-18-2013, 06:07 PM   #16
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Finishing the front door


It is not taking it off that is the hard part..

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Old 04-18-2013, 06:28 PM   #17
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Yup taking it off and putting the doors back onto the hinges is the easiest part of all. It's being able to finish the door properly without having to worry about time is the hard part. And trust me, my garage is way dustier compared to where the doors are.

I'm thinking of quarantining the area with plastic drops creating as good of a seal possible, vacuum suction the air and re-sealing the area before painting the doors.

That should limit any contaminants getting into the drying paint.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:52 PM   #18
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It usually takes one or two minutes to knock the pins out. It would be faster for me to take the door off and paint horizontally. I wouldn't call it rushing through the project, it would be doing it the best way.

It's very possible that the grit is stuff blowing onto the wet paint while it's drying, another reason to take the door off and paint in the garage or somewhere indoors. There's more stuff in the air than you know. The best way to find out is to paint something.
Does more dust land on horizontal surfaces, or vertical ones? Thanks for the general contractor's viewpoint Jasper. We value that here. In twenty five years I've removed maybe two doors from hinges to paint, for reasons other than easiness, practicality, or dust in the wind. And I've never seen or heard of another pro who removes doors to paint laying flat. I think if there was some validity to your point, I'd have come across another pro who would have challenged my rigid, out dated mode of doing things. And, I've painted doors that carpenters had to remove to cut, after they've rehung them. So it's not a matter of the laziness of popping two pins.

Now, I have painted many doors that weren't on hinges, but that's because there were no hinges yet to hang them on. But sadly, not a one of them was layed down, neither to paint nor "allow the paint to level". No, they were propped up against a wall, vertically, in a fashion where I can store ten to twelve wet doors in the space of one lying horizontally.

I remember once on a job where another painter on our crew thought it was a good idea to remove a door and lay it flat to stain. He must have been a gc at one time, in another life, or the son of one. Well, he was sweating like a pig and it was dripping all over the door as he was working. I was watching and said something, but he knew better than I. He was wiping the sweat off with a dry rag, to his credit. Needless to say, the dry rag wasn't drying the wet spots and when the stain dried it wasn't very pretty. It was a funky, splotchy mess. The only thing I remember is the door disappeared.

I know it's fashionable here lately to question every single pro on every single painting process/method, that everything is a matter of opinion, and one way is as good as another. After all, this is 2013, not 1913. But you know why we still do things the old fashioned way, because they work and work best. It's very simple.

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Old 04-18-2013, 09:03 PM   #19
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Roma, please put the TSP back on the shelf. TSP is a cleaning solution, a very strong one at that. A freshly coated, between coat sanded door is no place for TSP. I sand doors, then give them a vigorous dusting with my paint duster, then coat them out. I rarely have to sand them between coats, or maybe just quick once over on the flats, then dust again. The secret is good dusting and clean paint.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:19 PM   #20
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Before I moved into my current house I pulled the hinge pins on all the doors, took off the lock sets leaned them up in the garage after hanging plastic and wetting down the floor and sprayed them with my HVLP Gun. They came out beautiful. I guess I was lucky. I also guess everybody has their way of doing things. A lot of good points from all posters though.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:23 PM   #21
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Good thing you didn't need to lock the door that night..
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:36 PM   #22
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Okay. No more TSP. but I don't think brush dusting alone does the trick. The dust will just fly off and some will land back on the surface. I can use a wet rag after brush dusting and finish off with a tack cloth right?
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #23
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Does more dust land on horizontal surfaces, or vertical ones? Thanks for the general contractor's viewpoint Jasper. We value that here. In twenty five years I've removed maybe two doors from hinges to paint, for reasons other than easiness, practicality, or dust in the wind. And I've never seen or heard of another pro who removes doors to paint laying flat. I think if there was some validity to your point, I'd have come across another pro who would have challenged my rigid, out dated mode of doing things. And, I've painted doors that carpenters had to remove to cut, after they've rehung them. So it's not a matter of the laziness of popping two pins.

Now, I have painted many doors that weren't on hinges, but that's because there were no hinges yet to hang them on. But sadly, not a one of them was layed down, neither to paint nor "allow the paint to level". No, they were propped up against a wall, vertically, in a fashion where I can store ten to twelve wet doors in the space of one lying horizontally.

I remember once on a job where another painter on our crew thought it was a good idea to remove a door and lay it flat to stain. He must have been a gc at one time, in another life, or the son of one. Well, he was sweating like a pig and it was dripping all over the door as he was working. I was watching and said something, but he knew better than I. He was wiping the sweat off with a dry rag, to his credit. Needless to say, the dry rag wasn't drying the wet spots and when the stain dried it wasn't very pretty. It was a funky, splotchy mess. The only thing I remember is the door disappeared.

I know it's fashionable here lately to question every single pro on every single painting process/method, that everything is a matter of opinion, and one way is as good as another. After all, this is 2013, not 1913. But you know why we still do things the old fashioned way, because they work and work best. It's very simple.
I'm sorry. Maybe it's too sensitive of an issue? Someone that's done many doors or panels might find it quicker but the homeowner without the experience may get frustrated. The first link I looked at: (And my comment was based on three decades of painting a wide variety of wood, metal and plastic). Your GC comments are just bigoted.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...atalogId=10053
Painting a door is an easy do-it-yourself project. Doors can be heavy and hard to remove making it easier to paint them in place instead of trying to take them off their hinges. However painting a door by putting it flat on a pair of sawhorses is the best way to prevent drips and runs.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:16 PM   #24
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What's going to happen Jasper when you're sitting in your recliner with an adult beverage and OP has a wet door sitting in his living room that he can't rehang before bed time, and it's you that recommended he remove it to paint? Think man. Use your brain. And thanks for bigot comment, that's my life's aspiration. And yes, I am bigoted toward GC's, one of the most destructive forces to the paint trade, hands down. You're making comments about bigotry, and at the same time you're making remarks about "sensitive" issues. Who's sensitive?
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #25
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What's going to happen Jasper when you're sitting in your recliner with an adult beverage and OP has a wet door sitting in his living room that he can't rehang before bed time, and it's you that recommended he remove it to paint? Think man. Use your brain.
LOL. Have you ever considered investing in a quality respirator? Alkyd enamels take four hours to dry in moderate temperatures, latex is faster. And I don't recommend doing your door in the living room.
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And thanks for bigot comment, that's my life's aspiration. And yes, I am bigoted toward GC's, one of the most destructive forces to the paint trade, hands down. You're making comments about bigotry, and at the same time you're making remarks about "sensitive" issues. Who's sensitive?
You seem to be getting wound around the axle. You know "general contractors" better than they know themselves, like they're all the same with no painting experience. You know DIYers better than Home Depot and are wildly intolerant of anyone that offers an opinion that you don't share. And what does bigotry have to do with sensitivity anyway? Dayum.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:01 PM   #26
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Hahaha LOL both of you guys are too funny......how bout y'all come over to my place help me with this dang door and I'll pop a couple of ice cold ones to bury the hatchet ehhhh?

I've got a nice view :-)
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:15 PM   #27
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Hahaha LOL both of you guys are too funny......how bout y'all come over to my place help me with this dang door and I'll pop a couple of ice cold ones to bury the hatchet ehhhh?

I've got a nice view :-)
He'll paint it vertically, then I'll take it down and paint it horizontally and show him some GC awesomeness.


Seriously though, there's more than one way to do something, you just need to figure out what works for you. In your case, you have contaminates in the paint, on the door or in the air. It's often a process of elimination.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #28
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Nice Jasper, very thoughtful, but not worth a reply. I stand behind my statement.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:54 PM   #29
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Yes I'm going to tape off the door's entrance, vacuum and wipe down everything in the area, strain the paint again, use tack cloth on the doors, etc etc and see what happens....

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