exterior paint - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom

joewho · 06-10-2007, 06:09 PM

For the OP.

Vinyl siding is not that difficult or scary to paint. There are several mfg.s that advertise paint directly to vinyl siding. I've used them, never had a problem.

Washing off the chaulk is the most important thing. Being that vinyl expands/contracts more than any other exterior material is a pointer to keep in mind.

Priming would be even better, but in my opinion, on vinyl, priming doesn't offer that much advantage as far as making the paint stick.

Yellow or colors containing yellow are the most fade prone colors.

Using the new oil modified exterior paints, no primer would be the diy'ers best solution to cost and ease of application.

Sherwin Williams color accents is an excellent paint for this application. It specifically works very well with deep tones (red) and has superior color retention while being less costly than duration.

Again, just my opinion, backed by experience. Again, advice for a diy'er.

PS. I've never experienced bowing or warpage from a color change on siding, but others in here may want to expound on that with a color change from yellow to red.

06-11-2007, 07:52 AM

I'm undecided on Emulsa-bond now days. I've used it recently in P&L Redseal and compared to paints we've carried in the past (Duron Weathershield, and Devoe Wonder Shield for example) the E-B just doesn't work so well anymore. It still gives the adhesion it always did, but I don't think Flood has reformulated the products in quite some time. The problem I run into is when putting it in these new heavier bodied, higher solids paints the paint gets gummy and much harder to work with, requiring thinning as well. It works better is the vinyl/acrylics I've used. That said, I'd rather go to the extra expense and put a product like Zinsser Peelstop on the surface and then a primer and paint, or in this case probably just a paint. Peelstop is a clean primer, basically just binder in a can, that really glues down the problem surface. It works well on chaulking and peeling. I think Xim makes a similar product.

Gerry Kiernan · 06-15-2007, 01:08 PM

Hello All

I have a large workshop [former warehouse] which is covered in cedar siding. The first four feet up is bevel cedar siding laid horizontally, and the rest, about eight feet, is channel cedar siding run vertically. There is a lot of flaking going on, mostly on the channel siding.
I am planning to replace much of the bevel siding, as it is in poor shape, and will redo some of the vertical siding.

My big question is prep of the wood. What is the most effective way to get rid of the flaking? Bear in mind this is a big shop, and hand scraping would probably take me several months.

Is it practical to remove the vertical siding, reverse it, and reinstall for a fresh surface?

Thanks in advance

Gerry

**slickshift** · 06-15-2007, 03:41 PM

Hand scraping is usually the best way
A quality scraper (like the Hyde duo-metal ones) is light years ahead of a putty knife
Though some machines (paint eaters) can be used
I should warn you, the good ones aren't cheap, and the cheap ones aren't good
They are a little faster and less fatiguing than hand scraping

It reaches a point where so much needs to be scraped, that a full strip is in order
You'd want to invest in a paint eater if you want to DIY that

I couldn't tell you about switching siding sides, that'd have to be your call