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lendosky 07-01-2014 04:37 PM

Exterior house painting questions
I have a mid 1980's house that I'm going to paint soon. I'm replacing damaged lap siding, trim and fascia when it fits in my schedule. The worst thing is that it rains almost daily here where I live, Minnesota, and I don't want to do things twice.

Here are my questions:
1. I assume I must wash the siding prior to painting. But once the siding dries can I start painting?
2. How much time do I need between application of new paint and rain? I know the paint cans usually say 'dry time' but I am assuming that 'dry time' doesn't mean that the surface is ready for a good downpour.
3. The fascia is being replaced. Can I just use a good paint, or is primer mandatory? The fascia is cedar wood.
4. I know that everyone loves Ben Moore and SW paint--and I agree they are superior paints but jeez Louise they are proud of their paints and charge crazy prices. Can I get away with using the low grade SW? Or at that price point am I basically using a Valspar?
5. Anyone have any tips for spraying when there is a constant breeze so I don't damage any nearby property that doesn't belong to me?
6. Do you pros thin the paint before spraying with a bit of water?
7. Would thinning be detrimental to someone like me who is going from a dark color to a light color?
8. When you caulk the seams, do you guys just paint over it the same day or wait a day?
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Gymschu 07-01-2014 08:40 PM

That's a lot of questions for one post. You would really be better served "searching" the various topics with the site's search feature. Lots of good reading and advice.

1. After washing, allow the siding to dry at least 24 hours. That's usually more than enough time to wait with summer heat drying things out rather quickly.

2. I like a "24-hour window" for new paint to dry before getting soaked by rain or a heavy dew. Some paints like SW's Resilience form a water-tight skin in just a few hours.

3. Cedar needs an oil-based primer or tannins from inside the wood will leach onto the newly painted surface putting tea-colored stains on your new paint job. You might want to consider MDF or Fibercement for your fascia. Neither will rot nor will they require as much prep before painting.

4. There's truly not much difference in price between Valspar and SW/BM, especially if you go to the real paint stores when there are 40% sales going on.

5. Spraying in a breeze, never much fun, I don't have any trade secrets to help you with that.

6. Yes, a lot of paints are thinned with water or additives before spraying.

7. Thinning would really have little effect.

8. Wait a day. Let they caulk harden up before painting over it.

chrisn 07-02-2014 12:50 AM

#4 you get what you pay for :whistling2:

ToolSeeker 07-02-2014 06:37 AM

SW resilience claim to fame is 1hour after painting you can squirt with a hose with no effect.
Spraying when windy, If I waited for just calm days I would never spray. Overspray can be controlled by tip size. The smaller the orifice the better the paint atomizes to the point that it should be like drywall in a couple feet. Of course the term windy is subjective breezy is OK windy is not. Always a good idea to let neighbor know so he can move his car or you go cover it for him.

A lot of this depends on what you are spraying with, airless, paint zoom, Wagner buzz sprayer, ect. For an airless there is no need to thin your paint. For the others forget what I said.

Will22 07-02-2014 09:22 AM

48 hours before rain is the general label recommendation. Obviously, temperature and humidity can be factors that slow down curing.

lendosky 07-02-2014 07:50 PM

Thanks everyone for the helpful tips. Especially the info about the tips! I have a graco airless. Not a big boy but big enough for my use. SW A100 it is then. Pray for consistent good weather and hope for breezy weather--not windy. Thanks guys.

ToolSeeker 07-03-2014 06:42 AM

I hope you come back. Another tip for overspray is with the smaller tips hold your gun a little closer will also help with over spray. Another tip is get a couple pieces of cardboard, think big like from an appliance store, set them up outside when breezy at a 90 degree angle to each other a little distance apart. Then get some mis-matched paint usually about $10 then practice your spraying techniques and see how much overspray gets on the second piece of cardboard.

lendosky 07-04-2014 08:46 AM

ToolSeeker: thanks for that tip as well. That's a great one.

lendosky 07-07-2014 10:14 AM

Another question: I have some downspouts (in good shape) with trim behind that needs scraping (I'm just replacing the pieces instead) can I spray the gutters with a100 paint or need they be removed? I understand that the replaced boards will have to be primed with a wood primer and that product will not be applied to the gutters. Thanks.

Jmayspaint 07-07-2014 11:36 AM

If your asking if its ok to paint gutters/downspouts with A100 the answer is yes. Residential gutters in good condition will accept latex paint without a primer just fine, as long as they're clean.

lendosky 07-08-2014 02:58 PM

One more question (I hope)

I had some trim where the wood was good but the paint was a little crappy. I powerwashed what I could and scraped the rest of the loose paint. Can I paint it or must I prime it first? The only reason I don't want to prime is because the gutters are attached to these boards and I would rather not take them down.

ToolSeeker 07-08-2014 08:52 PM

If it's down to the bare wood you need to prime.

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