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ostinoh 04-09-2014 04:07 PM

Exterior Door Jamb Paint Repair Help!!
Hello -

I have a bunch of door frames and even my garage frame that need to be repainted. I know I will have to scrap and maybe sand. But how do I get the paint that will not come off blend in or feather in to make it look like a smooth transition from old to new paint jobs? Not a little craters where the paint use to be.

I canít find the right key works or industry name to describe it. I attached two images of what my door frames look like.

Thank you,



Gymschu 04-09-2014 04:22 PM

It's called "feathering". It sometimes requires some aggressive sanding on peeling like that, but, you sand the area around the bare wood a few inches all around the bare spot to remove any high spots that create the "crater" effect. It takes some practice and you have to develop an actual feel for the wood to know that you have succeeded in leveling the surface.

joecaption 04-09-2014 04:45 PM

Got some real issues there.
Horrible caulking job, lack of routine mantaince.
No J moulding where the siding meets the Brick moulding.
No bonding between the primer and the paint.
If it was mine I would remove that storm door and replace the old wooden brick moulding with new vinyl brick moulding. Then just a bead of caulking between the moulding and the siding.
Insist on using what you have now then a paint scraper then a random orbital sander, primer then two coats of or paints needed.

mako1 04-10-2014 01:15 PM

I'm with Joe.You can buy prebent aluminum brickmold cover or vinyl brickmold at any big box store .That and some good caulk should be fine for years.

ostinoh 04-10-2014 01:38 PM

Would the pre-bent aluminum brick mold cover go over the current wood?

mako1 04-10-2014 07:07 PM

Yes it will after scraping the loose paint off.

joecaption 04-10-2014 07:33 PM

I've never seen or heard of prebent metal in the shape of brick moulding.
However it can be done with a brake buddy on a brake.
Google it.
That old aluminum siding expands and contracts a lot. Looks like someone added that door after the siding was installed.
No one in there right mind would have installed in without J moulding.

mako1 04-10-2014 07:53 PM

Every lumber yard and big box store in this area carries it for around $8.00 a 10'
length.Cheaper than I can break it.

mako1 04-10-2014 07:58 PM

Tons of old aluminum siding in this area from the 50's to 70's.Some backed and some not.They never did use J.Just caulk.Not saying it's a right or a good thing.Just the way they did it for years in Illinois.

joecaption 04-10-2014 08:15 PM

I've resided at least at least 100 houses that had aluminum siding and never once saw one without 3/4" J moulding around the doors and windows. Sure way to have caulking fail. J would cover the gap, caulking's just going to fail.
Been in every HD, Lowes, ABC Supply, and Lancing within 50 miles and never have seen premade coil stock bent to the shape of brick moulding.
Not a bad idea, just never seen it.

ToolSeeker 04-10-2014 08:24 PM

I got to admit I've never seen it before.

mako1 04-11-2014 06:00 AM
Must be an Illinois thing.I can't brake it for $7.00 a stick.

ostinoh 04-14-2014 08:32 AM

Well - After weighing all the great tips and ideas from everyone. I broke down this past weekend removed the wooden brick moulding and replaced it with new vinyl brick moulding. I think it looks great and worked out great. Even replaced the doors sill

The hardest steps of the whole thing was caulking... haha

Thank you to everyone for their post. Would have not been able to do with out them.


Donna_Donna 05-01-2014 02:56 AM

It is not a big problem to make your doors look like new. You should remove old paint make a sanding till bare wood and install new
door levers.

Gymschu 05-01-2014 07:09 AM

[quote=Donna_Donna;1344683]It is not a big problem to make your doors look like new. You should remove old paint make a sanding till bare wood and install new
door levers.

He finished the job already, but thanks for chiming in.:yes:

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