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-   -   Drywall/Patching Question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/drywall-patching-question-162837/)

ShellyLynne 11-10-2012 01:15 PM

Drywall/Patching Question
 
Hi All,
This is my first time visiting this site and my first DIY project so if I sound like I don't know what I'm doing it's true.

I recently tore out the linoleum floor and 'baseboards' from my bathroom (they were already coming out anyway). While removing the baseboards, (if you can call them baseboards - they were really just plastic looking stuff glued to the bottom of the wall) some of the wall ripped and now the bottom of the walls have either really thick glue stuck to them or some holes that need repairing. How do I go about fixing this?

Also, the paint (in same bathroom) was peeling above my shower (it's a very old house) so I started to peel it off. I'm down to the - what I believe is drywall but a few spots look like I took the first layer of drywall off because it looks like cardboard. Can I use drywall sealer/paint over those areas?

Let me just say I know I probably removed all of this in the wrong way, but I'd had it with this bathroom and all of this was done in a very cathartic way. : ) I have a husband who's useless so I'm on my own. Please help.

Brushjockey 11-10-2012 01:22 PM

Another case of Gardz ( a clear sealing primer) to the rescue!

In both where you see the brown paper ( sheetrock paper ) score with a razor knife a circle or stopping point around the "injury", and sand the paper so it doesn't have flaky levels, and then saturate with gardz. You can get it in Qts, little goes a long way.
Then get a bucket of Plus3 and using at least a 6" mud blade (12 is always better) resuface after the Gardz is dry. repeat if needed, sand smooth, reprime ( might as well use the Gardz again- it is also a great primer) .
Then ready to top coat with a good quality paint.
I recommend an eggshell finish for baths- better moisture resistance.

ShellyLynne 11-10-2012 02:52 PM

Thank you.
 
Thank you so much BrushJockey. I appreciate the info and learned my lesson!

user1007 11-10-2012 03:59 PM

I agree with BJ for the most part but....

When you took the failed drywall down was it swollen and did you cut out any of it not looking the same as that around it away? If moisture got into your plasterboard, you need to keep cutting it back until you see no more signs.

You can then cut a patch, mud and tape it, and then proceed as suggested.

Should dump the worthless husband sooner rather than later you know.

KD PAINTING 11-10-2012 08:33 PM

Drywall/Patching Question
 
I agree with what has been said here:
  • cut around to remove rotten or wet material
  • apply compound several times or as needed
  • sand to even surface
  • use a quality primer (123 primer from HD works great)
  • use a quality wall paint
http://kdpaintingct.com

ToolSeeker 11-11-2012 06:43 AM

Agree but you need to remove the rest of the "thick" glue spots and repair them also.

ShellyLynne 11-16-2012 04:40 PM

Thanks to all!
 
To sdsester - I don't think any moisture got into the sheetrock paper. After I tore the paint off the wall and realized I had gone a little too far, I stopped taking showers in there so no moisture would penetrate the paper. Also, am in the process of trying to dump the worthless husband.

To KD Painting - Thank you for the tip on the quality wall primer (123 from HD). Am going there today to pick some up.

To ToolSeeker - Any suggestions on how to remove the thick glue spots at bottom of wall or should I just try to apply compound over it?

ShellyLynne 11-16-2012 04:42 PM

Thank you to all of you for the great information!

ToolSeeker 11-16-2012 04:51 PM

The husband is up to you, but for the patches of glue to scrap them is about the only way I know. And if they are even a little thick to put compound over them will most likely put a hump in the wall that will show. After you scrap them you may have to repair some spots, mud, sand, prime and paint. Good luck both husband and repair.

bbo 11-16-2012 05:00 PM

scraper to remove the think glue spots.

I picture one like this - many different varieties, you can also get ones with a knob n the other side of the blade to give you more leverage

http://visual.merriam-webster.com/im...ep/scraper.jpg

Brushjockey 11-16-2012 05:28 PM

Workshttp://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_18171.jpg

chrisn 11-17-2012 02:50 AM

Damn, could'nt you find a BIGGER pic?:laughing:

Brushjockey 11-17-2012 09:02 AM

Lol, it was small on the page I hot linked it from!

gilcarleton 11-17-2012 04:20 PM

I would use the pull type scraper for most of the work. Don't worry about tearing up the sheet rock there just get the glue off. After you get the glue off cut any loose plaster away and drive a few drywall nails into the bottom plate if wood is exposed. This will give the plaster something to hang on to. Then you need to fill the holes. Some people like Fix All but I prefer to use simple plaster. It is easier to work with and correct if you accidentally get the patch too high. Mix up your plaster or Fix All and then wet the area to patch. Wetting is important because putting wet plaster on completely dry plaster often causes it to set up too quickly and not adhere to the old plaster. You are just trying to get the big holes filled in so leave it about 1/8" to 1/16" shallow. Next run a knife full of drywall joint compound over all of the holes, even the ones you did not fill. After that is dry, put a coat of drywall topping compound over it. When dry, sand smooth and prime, paint and put on your new trim.


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