Drywall patch finishing (compounds and tapes)
So I tore out a little closet door in the bathroom. We're going to do open shelving because it gives much more space. I placed with the idea of doing something decroative around the opening, but I think we just want to drywall. I've patched it leaving about 1/8" on the butt joints. This is where I've always stopped. I bought light joint compound, but I'm not hearing spackle is the way to go. Any one suggest a compound such as a quick drying one and then the proper tape to use. Also I don't have any putty knives other than a 4 or 6 in (not sure) so the proper knives I'll need.
Additionally, for matching the texture should I just buy the spray can stuff for this small of an area and try to match?
Just fyi the picture is only of one side, it goes up then ceiling and back down.
OK this probably going to be long. Don't use spackle it is only intended for small repairs. 2 You need to put corner bead around the opening. vinyl bead is the most DIY friendly you can get a can of bead adhesive to put it on with and you don't have to contend with nail or screw heads. On the inside corners you will need to I was going to say paper tape because mesh tape won't crease, but I have a better idea it is more expensive, but if you go to a drywall store they have a product called NO-COAT or STAIT-FLEX no-coat makes pre-formed inside corners. They are easy to use and they give you very nice straight corners and are easy to install and finish. No special tools needed. Remember to add small pieces also in that short space between the inside and outside corner. DO NOT overlap your tape. Now for the mud you need quick set 90 It comes in a WHITE bag, this is important to remember because it also comes in a brown bag. The brown bag CANNOT be sanded. This comes as a powder you mix with water, the 90 means it takes 90 minutes to set up, also remember if you mix it with warm water it sets quicker so be careful. 90 minutes sounds like a long time but if you haven't done this before believe me it's not. And once this stuff starts getting stiff you have to throw it out you can't add more water it sets by chemical reaction so once it starts you can't stop it, so only mix what you think you can use. you only need to use this on your outside corners nit the inside. To set the inside get a small bucket of pre-mixed all purpose (green lid) and set your corners with that it takes longer to dry but you only need 2 coats on the inside, 1 under your corner and 1 on top. Now for tools will need at least 2 taping knifes 1- 5or 6 inch and 1-12inch. Take your 12" and put on your corner bead and on your wall see all that space under the knife you need to fill that in but do not attempt to do so in one shot. Take your 90 and with 6" knife put mud along the bead then take your 12" and run it down the bead keeping the edge up on top of the bead and smooth it out. Let that set up and do it again applying the mud out farther let that set up and do it a 3rd time applying the regular mud instead of 90. Now sand, when picking up your materials also pick up a couple drywall sanding sponges 1 fine and 1 medium they are good to sand a small project like this, when done sanding and be sure when sanding you take care to sand where your new mud meets the old wall that edge needs to be smooth. Wipe down prime and paint wall, not just the patch area. Not as bad as it sounds Good Luck and keep us posted.
Thank you for your detailed reply. I feel much more comfortable. I have two more questions.
(1) the only inside corner I have is where the wall meets the ceiling. I'm assuming that should just be paper tape? Also should I paper tape the butt joints or use mesh tape?
(2) As for sanding, I watched some videos where all the guy did was wet sand with a sponge. You talk about using sanding blocks (I'm assuming dry) Can you elaborate on the times and steps for sanding?
oh I forgot as for texture, for that small of an area should I just use a spray can?
|All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:42 PM.|
© 2003 - 2010 The Building Network LLC