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Old 06-13-2007, 10:15 AM   #1
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Drywall Painting Question


Hello all --
In my living room, I put up 1/4" rock over existing walls (I heard the previous owner painted the walls and ceilings by mixing paint and sand together). We could not stand the bumpy walls and ceiling any longer, hence the new drywall. My question is on the ceiling is it recommended to paint parallel with the butt or taper joints?

I went parallel with the taper joints and am thinking that may have been wrong...

Also, I got stuck buying Pitt Paint Drywall surfacer, (I think that is what is was, does that come in a green can) b/c they were out of my usual favorite SPEEDHIDE (Interior Latex Sealer) for new construction. And after applying first coat of SPEEDHIDE latex ceiling flat, I am not super impressed. I am definitely going to have to do a second coat.

So, wrapping up:
Which way do you paint ceilings?
And, not that I have to do a second coat on the ceiling, what paint should I try that will work with what is up there now?

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Old 06-13-2007, 10:18 AM   #2
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Drywall Painting Question


Most of the people I sell to use Pratt and Lambert Pro Hide Gold HHO primer on new drywall including ceilings and Pro Hide Gold Flat on the ceilings. That usually one primer and one paint. PHG is a relatively cheap paint but has excellent hide.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:17 AM   #3
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Drywall Painting Question


It makes no difference on which way the joints run.

If I'm using a 9" roller I roll parallel to the longest wall, this is only for convience.

If I'm rolling with a weenie roller I roll in all kinds of directions, to eliminate any "railroad tracks".

The biggest mistake people make in rolling a ceiling is letting the cover become too dry, by squeezing the paint out of it when they should be re-loading it.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:33 AM   #4
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Drywall Painting Question


Thanks Guys
Hamilton, I think I may have been guilty of what you said. The first 1/3 of the ceiling I was concerned that I was going to run out of paint, so I probably was not applying as much paint as I should have. (obviously this is where I see some blotchy areas)

OK:
just got back from the paint store and got some Ben Moore SuperSpec, and comments?

Also, roller covers, I have been trying really hard to find a good high-end cover that suits me.

Bestt Liebco Roller Cover (3/8)-- Not bad, but felt it did not hold a ton of paint

Wooster Pro-doo Z (3/8) – Not bad as well, but liked the Best Liebco cover better

Any suggestions are welcomed….
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:52 PM   #5
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Drywall Painting Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkOnIt
My question is on the ceiling is it recommended to paint parallel with the butt or taper joints?
Which way do you paint ceilings?
It doesn't matter
In fact, technically, the old-school thinking on them is first coat one way, second coat the other
With todays paints it's not a big deal, but I can see the logic
Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkOnIt
Also, I got stuck buying Pitt Paint Drywall surfacer... they were out of my usual favorite SPEEDHIDE (Interior Latex Sealer)...after applying first coat of SPEEDHIDE latex ceiling flat, I am not super impressed. I am definitely going to have to do a second coat.
...not that I have to do a second coat on the ceiling, what paint should I try that will work with what is up there now?
Well, I am a big fan of the SpeedHide primer for new drywall
And even though it doesn't have to, I find it leaves the surface very white and solidly so
I have never used the Drywall Surfacer
And I don't use the Speedhide Paints for ceilings (though I like them for walls in commercial applications)

I'd have to say that the Speedhides aren't good enough to cover ceilings (or anything) in one coat, but as the Speedhide primer is so good (at covering and leaving the surface very white), I could see getting away with one coat white over one coat white primer if Speedhide were used for both and they were the same shade

There are some ceiling paints I know would be OK with one coats over a good coat of Speedhide primer

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkOnIt
... I probably was not applying as much paint as I should have. (obviously this is where I see some blotchy areas)
Yes, this is the biggest technique mistake made, trying to "squeeze out" the paint
It needs to ba "laid on" not "squeezed out"

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkOnIt
just got back from the paint store and got some Ben Moore SuperSpec, and comments?
As much Ben Moore as I use (which is mostly), I don't use Super Spec
I use BM's Muresco Ceiling White (spectacular btw....that would cover in one coats over Speedhide primer on a new good surface no problem)
Or, if it's to be tinted, BM's Regal (in the appropriate sheen)

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkOnIt
Also, roller covers, I have been trying really hard to find a good high-end cover that suits me
Bestt Liebco Roller Cover (3/8)-- Not bad, but felt it did not hold a ton of paint
Wooster Pro-doo Z (3/8) – Not bad as well, but liked the Best Liebco cover better
Any suggestions are welcomed…
On par with those would also be the Purdy White Dove

If you'd like to step up (and I think you do...lol), then a 50/50 wool/poly) or 100% wool from Wooster, Purdy, etc, would do it

I'd also step up to a 1/2" nap (or more)
Those 3/8" don't hold nearly enough paint
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Old 06-13-2007, 03:17 PM   #6
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The Pro Doo-Z is a good roller. Usually cheaper than the Purdy or BL covers.
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:20 PM   #7
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I would use a minimum 1/2" nap, even 3/4" if there is knock-down. Just take your time or the cover will fling paint everywhere.

Here's what we use on ceilings :

1. 3/4" nap on 9" roller
2. 5 gallon bucket
3. 9" grid
4. 4 ft extension pole.

One guy cuts in with brush and weenie and another chases him with the 9". Make sure you have plenty of paint; it will take about a pint just to load the big roller.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:48 PM   #8
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Drywall Painting Question


Thanks to all who helped...

The Paints used:

Primer walls - 1 coat (Pitt SPEEDHIDE)
Primer ceiling - 1 coat (Pitt Drywall surfacer)
Wall Paint -- 1 coat so far, looks good though (Pitt Manor Hall)
Ceiling Paint - 2 coats (Pitt SPEEDHIDE latex followed by Ben Moore SuperSpec)

Rollers used --combo of Bestt Liebco and Wooster Pro-doo Z

Total paint time,(1 person = +/-10 hours)

Trim and mouldings to come this weekend...

Here is a time sequence of pix to so progress

just so I don't get ridiculed, the drywall pix is only after 1 coat of mud...
Attached Thumbnails
Drywall Painting Question-pre_1.jpg   Drywall Painting Question-mid_1.jpg   Drywall Painting Question-post_1.jpg  
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:12 PM   #9
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I would hold off doing the second wall coat until after the trim is up, it is much easier cutting in a wall than the 90º trim corners. Remember, you're gonna have to go over the trim three times - one primer, two finish coats. And don't worry about getting primer on the walls, the finish coat will cover that.
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