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Old 05-27-2012, 03:04 PM   #1
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Drylock


My poured cement basement walls have water issues. Do I need to remove the paint that is already on there to put on Drylock? The house was built in 1935 so I don't know what all is on there. Can I use a sandblaster to remove the old paint? I just want the basement dry and functional. I do not care if it is pretty.


Thank you in advance to all who help.

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Old 05-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #2
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Drylock


You CANNOT apply Drylock over previously painted walls. It is only effective on bare walls, especially block walls where the dry lock can penetrate the tiny pores of the cement blocks. Drylock is effective but only to a certain extent. It will hold out water, but not a LOT of water. If you're getting any type of puddling in your basement you have serious drainage issues that can only be solved by work on the OUTSIDE of your foundation. I'd focus on that rather than sandblasting paint from your basement walls and applying Drylock. That will only take you so far in holding out moisture.

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Old 05-27-2012, 07:32 PM   #3
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Drylock


Thank you. I am also installing a French drain which will lead to the sump pump well. I get the feeling that mositure will continue to be an issue, so I want the extra help of Drylock. Is sandbalsting the only way to get the old paint off?
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:47 PM   #4
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Drylock


You should probably hire a knowledgeable structural engineer who has expertise in the vintage of your house. The composition of the walls of your basement/foundation bear directly on what you can/should do and how you should do it. For example, if your walls are terra cotta block, then you do NOT want to sand blast them, but you should get the paint off them, and they should not be coated with any sort of impermeable barrier.

No doubt you're aware of this but it bear repeating for others who might read this thread, 90% of your efforts should be focused on removing the sources of water pressure against the foundation walls from the exterior, if possible, through means such as regrading and exterior french drains.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:40 PM   #5
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Apparently there is controversy on the exterior verses interior basement fixes. I am not qualified to argue either way, but my research shows that the trend seems to be going for interior fixes. I have no choice in that I only have about four feet on one side and the back of the property before the neighbor’s yard starts. I have cleaned the full gutters.

I am hoping the interior French drain I am installing will do it. This is a rental property and there is no way I can afford to hire an engineer. It is poured cement, and I just want to know how to remove the paint to prepare for the Drylock.
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:09 PM   #6
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Drylock


Take a look at amesresearch.com and their block and wall liquid rubber or blue max. I have had Great success using these products on interior foundation walls.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:31 PM   #7
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Drylock


Cossack, as Gymschu says, Dryloc works by penetrating into the pores of the concrete. You may sandblast off the surface paint, but will that remove any primer/paint that is currently in the pores? I think not. There's a difference between removing old paint for "painting" and removing old paint for "sealing" purposes. It's the same concept of stripping wood for restaining, you have to sand off the topmost layer where the old stain has penetrated and sealed the pores/grain to get to "open" grain. I think Dryloc is "no soup for you". Mazz might be onto something with his suggestion. However, I think a french drain will go a long way to solving your problem.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:31 AM   #8
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Cossack - I would advise against drylock because you would have to remove all of the existing paint, as others have mentioned. In addition, I have never had any luck with drylock actually keeping water out. Some dampness and efflorescence maybe, but never actually hold back water.
the Ames Products I mentioned will go over a painted surface and I have had tremendous success waterproofing from the interior of a foundation using their products. Sometimes you don't have a choice and this is the only way to go. Many of the buildings where I am located are row houses and you can't dig outside so we have no choice but to waterproof from the inside.

I'm not sure why the previous poster would want your last post removed?? DId you offend him in some way? In any case, remove anything that is flaking, loose, peeling, etc.. Apply two coats of blue max or block and wall liquid rubber (which is white). If you have any cracks they should be seam taped. Call up the company if you have any questions or feel free to ask me. Their customer service happens to be excellent.

good luck
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazzonetv View Post
I'm not sure why the previous poster would want your last post removed?? DId you offend him in some way?
Nothing like that- I started to say something and realized someone else already said it...

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