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retfr8flyr 04-02-2013 02:06 AM

Dry Wall Prep?
 
I will be painting my garage soon and I need some help on prepping the bare dry wall. When I built the house I had the garage dry walled and mud applied but didn't have it finished and painted. The dry wall has been sitting like this for 12 years now.

I need some recommendations on the best method to prep the walls prior to putting on the primer. Will I have to redo the mud areas, or can I just sand them lightly? Should I wash the walls using plain water, some soap and water, some other chemical, or should I just wipe them down with damp towels and not wash them at all? All help is appreciated.


Earl

chrisn 04-02-2013 02:31 AM

Sand lightly, if needed, wash with water, prime with Zinnser 123, paint.

retfr8flyr 04-02-2013 02:36 AM

Thanks, I am using Bulls Eye 123 for the primer. So just wash the walls with plain water, that I can do.


Earl

jsheridan 04-02-2013 04:34 AM

If you use water, use it lightly, and be sure to give it a good drying period. Has it browned? Personally, the couple of times I've painted browned drywall, I've used stain blocking oil primer rather than risk a bleed through. Why sheetrock browns with age is beyond me.

ToolSeeker 04-02-2013 08:21 AM

Too make it look finished and I don't really know what look you are after. I think you should look at your mud joints. You say you had them mudded but not finished. I don't know how rough they are but may need some sanding and attention because after paint they will really stick out if not addressed. After all it's a garage they don't have to be perfect but you don't want them to be an eyesore either.

retfr8flyr 04-02-2013 09:32 AM

Yes I have to repair a couple of the ceiling joints and will lightly sand the others spots but most of them look good. Yes the dry wall has yellowed but I figure 2 coats of the 123 and it should be good to paint.


Earl

Nailbags 04-02-2013 11:32 AM

So they are just taped? which is code. you want to finish it well then you have to apply a 4" and a 6" and lastly a 10" wide mud over the tape feather it out smooth it well and sand prime with PVA Primer paint. sounds fun!

user1007 04-02-2013 12:41 PM

And you don't gain anything with two coats of nice primer.

Given it is a garage space I would not be so casual about prep. Especially since it has been sitting. I would sand your tape joints, apply extra mud if needed, sand and vacuum as suggested then wash the walls and ceiling thoroughly with TSP.

Then prime. I would use a stain blocking primer or depending on how much exhaust has hit the walls? BIN.

Then two coats of nice finish. I would probably save some money using the contractor grades of either Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams paint.

chrisn 04-02-2013 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 1150950)
And you don't gain anything with two coats of nice primer.

Given it is a garage space I would not be so casual about prep. Especially since it has been sitting. I would sand your tape joints, apply extra mud if needed, sand and vacuum as suggested then wash the walls and ceiling thoroughly with TSP.

Then prime. I would use a stain blocking primer or depending on how much exhaust has hit the walls? BIN.

Then two coats of nice finish. I would probably save some money using the contractor grades of either Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams paint.


Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is a whole house, universal interior and exterior, water-base stain-killing primer-sealer

chrisn 04-02-2013 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retfr8flyr (Post 1150836)
Yes I have to repair a couple of the ceiling joints and will lightly sand the others spots but most of them look good. Yes the dry wall has yellowed but I figure 2 coats of the 123 and it should be good to paint.


Earl


If you need 2 coats( I doubt it) let the first coat dry over night.

retfr8flyr 04-02-2013 07:13 PM

From my experience, painting bare dry wall takes 2 coats of primer to even look like you have put anything on the wall. Bare dry wall just soaks up the first coat almost faster then you can put it on. I would expect with these wall sitting here for this long they will soak it up even more then normal.

When I built the house the walls had the wall board installed, were taped, had the first coat of mud applied, sanded, second applied but not finish sanded, the builder and I had a disagreement about the cost of finishing the garage. Currently I am planning to repair a few of the tape joints, fix any other spots that look bad, finish sand all the tape joints and nail head spots and wash everything down. Then I will start with the primer. I am planning 2 coats of 123 primer and I will be doing the walls with 2 coats of Pratt & Lambert Accolade paint.I will be doing a Ford blue on the bottom, white on the top and a 12 inch red stripe around the middle of the room.

When I get all that finished then I get to start doing the epoxy on the floor. It's going to be a busy next couple of months for me, have to build in recovery time for my old body.


Earl

jagans 04-02-2013 07:49 PM

Am I hearing you paint guys correctly? You are saying to wash down unfinished drywall with TSP? Regular Paper faced drywall?

jsheridan 04-02-2013 08:12 PM

I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't suggest "washing" bare drywall. And I wouldn't use TSP, which requires rinsing. And I wouldn't use water after I finished taping and sanding, but before. I would take a damp rag with clear water only and wipe down the walls, not wash in the sense of soaking. That's just to pick up surface dust/dirt. You're only asking for trouble if you get it too wet. Primer is not meant to cover/hide, it's meant to seal the surface. The paint is meant to cover. The only time I ever consider double priming a surface is when I work with extremely weathered exposed wood. Double priming sheetrock IMO is a waste of time and materials.

retfr8flyr 04-02-2013 08:21 PM

Well when I talk about washing the wall, I don't mean to really soak them. I plan on using a damp sponge mop, after I finish all the sanding and lightly wiping it down the wall to clean off any dust and I plan on using plain water not TSP.


Earl

jsheridan 04-02-2013 08:24 PM

Just be mindful that using a wet sponge is another method of sanding drywall patching, don't push too hard or you'll be over sanding your patching.


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