Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Painting

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-31-2013, 09:03 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 26
Share |
Default

Door finish


Hi all,
I have a sliding French door with clad exterior and maple interior. Looking for best finish for maple side. Any recommendations?
Water base V solvent.
Brush V wipe on.
Thanks in advance.

philmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 09:09 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 25,781
Default

Door finish


If it was mine I would want a UV resistant oil based poly or Spar on it.
The best you can buy in my option is called Bristol Finish. Not cheap but it dries fast, self levels. It's possible to get three coats on in one day.
The more coats the longer any sealer will last.
With any new seaerl the olds going to have to be sanded off.

__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 09:48 AM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 26
Default

Door finish


Thanks
New doors, no old finish to remove. 😃
I'll look for it. Is it brush on?
philmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 10:35 AM   #4
Member
 
Gymschu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eastern Ohio (heart of Appalachia)
Posts: 2,668
Default

Door finish


This recent thread has lots of good info........
Oil-based or water-based lacquer finish for interior doors?

I don't know if you're planning on staining before clear coating but Old Masters is a nice line of stain. Maple often looks best natural, but a bit of stain can really make it pop.
Gymschu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:14 PM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 26
Default

Door finish


I'll be doing a clear/natural finish to match cabinets.
philmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:32 PM   #6
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,635
Default

Door finish


What is on it now and how do you plan to strip it off?

You want to use the method the generates the least amount of heat because heat melts finishes down into the wood grain.

1. Try mechanical methods first. You would be surprised what a good, draw type scraper itself can do.

2. Profile sanders can come in handy but the friction generates heat and melts the finish.

3. Chemical strippers also generate heat.

4. Infrared strippers are a gift from God. They will only heat the finish unless you leave them in place too long.

Here is an old trick taught me decades ago if you must use a method that generates heat and melts finish into wood grain. After stripping off all you can, apply a thick layer of shellac. Theoretically it will adhere to as much of the melted finish you forced into the grain. Let it dry. Strip the shellac and the paint it is adhered too.
user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 26
Default

Door finish


Thanks for the link. I will look at Zar finish. As stated doors are new French sliders clad outside maple in side. No old finish to remove.
Not keen on the possibility of finish lifting or turning yellow that two part and oil may do.
philmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 08:30 AM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 25,781
Default

Door finish


This is what pro boat refinishers use, and major yacht company's often use on the bright work. (wood work).
http://bristolfinish.com/
Any boating supply will have it.
EG: James Town Distributors, West Marine, ECT.
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #9
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,635
Default

Door finish


Joe C seems intent on refinishing the outside of your door and taking it out on a boat sailing or something.

If you like the maple look, I would seal it with 1:1 processed, not raw lindseed oil and mineral spirits. Let it dry out. Then I would put a coat or two of a polycrylic over it.

I do agree with Gymschu. Even a subtle bit of light color stain will enhance the maple. If you choose to try, do that after you seal the wood. Then clear coat it.

Last edited by user1007; 08-03-2013 at 10:14 AM.
user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 10:30 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 59
Default

Door finish


Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Joe C seems intent on refinishing the outside of your door and taking it out on a boat sailing or something.

<snip>
The marine-quality finishes such as the Bristol finish typically hold up for ten years or more on a door, that gets perhaps a third of the polymer-destroying ultraviolet as does the brightwork on a boat that looks straight at the sun, from dawn to dusk. Single-component finishes do not contain the vital combination of ultraviolet absorbers and antioxidants as do the two-part polyurethanes such as Bristol (a very user-friendly brushable 2-part polyurethane), mainly because those that cure at all do so usually by oxidation, and thus cannot use antioxidants to protect themselves. Jamestown also carries Smith's 2-part epoxy primer that you will want to use on the wood first; one-stop shopping.

If you can do the finishing in a reasonably dust-free environment on the door before it is hung, you can get very nice results. Using a good brush that does not shed bristles is also important; Purdy brushes are more costly, but excellent; they willl, hwoever, have to be cleaned thoroughly after every coat with the clean-up solvent the Bristol folks recommend; optionally, lacuqer thinner usuually works.
Pro Painter is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Pro Painter For This Useful Post:
joecaption (08-03-2013)
Old 08-03-2013, 10:44 AM   #11
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,635
Default

Door finish


Guys, magical sailing ships are about to appear here. I plan to be on some of them and looking over their brightwork.

http://navypier.com/tallshipschicago/

This guy is asking how to finish the INTERIOR maple side of his door. I restored sailboats. I am the first to suggest marine finishes when appropriate. I am thinking not necessarily on the inside of this door.
user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to user1007 For This Useful Post:
philmy (08-03-2013)
Old 08-03-2013, 11:27 AM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 59
Default

Door finish


My apologies. I misunderstood.
Pro Painter is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Pro Painter For This Useful Post:
philmy (08-03-2013)
Old 08-10-2013, 12:42 PM   #13
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 26
Default

Door finish


Does oil base poly in a spray can sound good? How well does it sand between coats?
philmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2013, 01:49 PM   #14
Member
 
Jmayspaint's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,062
Default

Door finish


Quote:
Originally Posted by philmy
Does oil base poly in a spray can sound good?


No, not really. Especially if you don't really want yellowing.

If there is plastic on the glass that you can cut out after, it would be easy.
But so would just brushing water base Polly. I think its easier than brushing paint. Less room for error.

The oil spray stuff does sand good after a couple coats.

ZAR is probably the best WB, but the other brands are fine (Minwax, Cabbot) and easier to get sometimes.
Jmayspaint is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Jmayspaint For This Useful Post:
philmy (08-10-2013)
Old 08-10-2013, 03:28 PM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 59
Default

Door finish


It could be anything, made by anyone, with that name. There's no way to tell.

You might or might not need to sand between coats to get intercoat adhesion; the label on the can hopefully would have that information.

You would just have to try it; for an interior application it might do your job. Get some, spray a few coats on a piece of similar wood, and see what you think.

One experiment is worth a thousand expert opinions.
-----Some scientist of years long past

Pro Painter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.