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philmy 07-31-2013 09:03 AM

Door finish
 
Hi all,
I have a sliding French door with clad exterior and maple interior. Looking for best finish for maple side. Any recommendations?
Water base V solvent.
Brush V wipe on.
Thanks in advance.

joecaption 07-31-2013 09:09 AM

If it was mine I would want a UV resistant oil based poly or Spar on it.
The best you can buy in my option is called Bristol Finish. Not cheap but it dries fast, self levels. It's possible to get three coats on in one day.
The more coats the longer any sealer will last.
With any new seaerl the olds going to have to be sanded off.

philmy 07-31-2013 09:48 AM

Thanks
New doors, no old finish to remove. 😃
I'll look for it. Is it brush on?

Gymschu 07-31-2013 10:35 AM

This recent thread has lots of good info........
http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/oil-ba...-doors-183941/

I don't know if you're planning on staining before clear coating but Old Masters is a nice line of stain. Maple often looks best natural, but a bit of stain can really make it pop.

philmy 07-31-2013 02:14 PM

I'll be doing a clear/natural finish to match cabinets.

user1007 07-31-2013 02:32 PM

What is on it now and how do you plan to strip it off?

You want to use the method the generates the least amount of heat because heat melts finishes down into the wood grain.

1. Try mechanical methods first. You would be surprised what a good, draw type scraper itself can do.

2. Profile sanders can come in handy but the friction generates heat and melts the finish.

3. Chemical strippers also generate heat.

4. Infrared strippers are a gift from God. They will only heat the finish unless you leave them in place too long.

Here is an old trick taught me decades ago if you must use a method that generates heat and melts finish into wood grain. After stripping off all you can, apply a thick layer of shellac. Theoretically it will adhere to as much of the melted finish you forced into the grain. Let it dry. Strip the shellac and the paint it is adhered too.

philmy 08-02-2013 07:06 PM

Thanks for the link. I will look at Zar finish. As stated doors are new French sliders clad outside maple in side. No old finish to remove.
Not keen on the possibility of finish lifting or turning yellow that two part and oil may do.

joecaption 08-03-2013 08:30 AM

This is what pro boat refinishers use, and major yacht company's often use on the bright work. (wood work).
http://bristolfinish.com/
Any boating supply will have it.
EG: James Town Distributors, West Marine, ECT.

user1007 08-03-2013 10:10 AM

Joe C seems intent on refinishing the outside of your door and taking it out on a boat sailing or something.

If you like the maple look, I would seal it with 1:1 processed, not raw lindseed oil and mineral spirits. Let it dry out. Then I would put a coat or two of a polycrylic over it.

I do agree with Gymschu. Even a subtle bit of light color stain will enhance the maple. If you choose to try, do that after you seal the wood. Then clear coat it.

Pro Painter 08-03-2013 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 1224596)
Joe C seems intent on refinishing the outside of your door and taking it out on a boat sailing or something.

<snip>

The marine-quality finishes such as the Bristol finish typically hold up for ten years or more on a door, that gets perhaps a third of the polymer-destroying ultraviolet as does the brightwork on a boat that looks straight at the sun, from dawn to dusk. Single-component finishes do not contain the vital combination of ultraviolet absorbers and antioxidants as do the two-part polyurethanes such as Bristol (a very user-friendly brushable 2-part polyurethane), mainly because those that cure at all do so usually by oxidation, and thus cannot use antioxidants to protect themselves. Jamestown also carries Smith's 2-part epoxy primer that you will want to use on the wood first; one-stop shopping.

If you can do the finishing in a reasonably dust-free environment on the door before it is hung, you can get very nice results. Using a good brush that does not shed bristles is also important; Purdy brushes are more costly, but excellent; they willl, hwoever, have to be cleaned thoroughly after every coat with the clean-up solvent the Bristol folks recommend; optionally, lacuqer thinner usuually works.

user1007 08-03-2013 10:44 AM

Guys, magical sailing ships are about to appear here. I plan to be on some of them and looking over their brightwork.

http://navypier.com/tallshipschicago/

This guy is asking how to finish the INTERIOR maple side of his door. I restored sailboats. I am the first to suggest marine finishes when appropriate. I am thinking not necessarily on the inside of this door.

Pro Painter 08-03-2013 11:27 AM

My apologies. I misunderstood.

philmy 08-10-2013 12:42 PM

Does oil base poly in a spray can sound good? How well does it sand between coats?

Jmayspaint 08-10-2013 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philmy
Does oil base poly in a spray can sound good?



No, not really. Especially if you don't really want yellowing.

If there is plastic on the glass that you can cut out after, it would be easy.
But so would just brushing water base Polly. I think its easier than brushing paint. Less room for error.

The oil spray stuff does sand good after a couple coats.

ZAR is probably the best WB, but the other brands are fine (Minwax, Cabbot) and easier to get sometimes.

Pro Painter 08-10-2013 03:28 PM

It could be anything, made by anyone, with that name. There's no way to tell.

You might or might not need to sand between coats to get intercoat adhesion; the label on the can hopefully would have that information.

You would just have to try it; for an interior application it might do your job. Get some, spray a few coats on a piece of similar wood, and see what you think.

One experiment is worth a thousand expert opinions.
-----Some scientist of years long past


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