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Old 05-01-2012, 10:44 AM   #1
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


Hi,

I bought some DAP Drydex spackle to fill in some screw holes and to patch a small hole in the wall with an adhesive aluminum mesh screen. One of the features it claims (as well as their CrackSHOT spackle) is that it doesn't "flash" paint. Also, I intend on using a latex paint that claims to be a paint and primer in one (Benjamin Moore Aura). That said, do I still need to spot prime the repair areas with a dedicated primer if I want to make them invisible once two coats of paint go on them? If so, what kind of primer should I use?

Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:57 AM   #2
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


Prime it. With a quart of real primer.

Benjamin Moore does not claim primer and paint in one. They have crossed to the dark side hinting primer and paint the same thing though.

Last edited by user1007; 05-01-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:00 AM   #3
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


Thanks! Now onto what kind of primer. I know Kilz makes several varieties. I'm guessing it should be a latex based primer? (Most seem to be oil based) Also should I get one that's stain blocking? I've heard that sometimes those can flash paint as well.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:19 AM   #4
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


I use Zinzeer 123 for priming. Kilnz to me is like priming with a glass of milk.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:55 AM   #5
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


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I use Zinzeer 123 for priming. Kilnz to me is like priming with a glass of milk.
I do not care for the 123 as a spot primer.

Have had it flash to many times.

Just a good ole' pva primer is what we use most.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #6
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


This is an example that spot priming with your Aura finish would work fine.
But if you have any quantity to do, why use a $65 paint when a $20 primer will do the job, better?
Another thing to consider is what sheen is present on the wall and what are you going to.
The priming is about even porosity. If you prime with some sheen similar to what is existing on the wall- you have even porosity. if you prime with a great sealer over a flat paint, it will flash unless you do the wall.
BTW- there is no such thing as a spackle that won't flash...
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #7
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


To answer the sheen question, the existing paint job is an eggshell or satin latex and the new paint is eggshell latex, so I wouldn't be priming for bonding issues, just to hide the spackled areas.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:17 PM   #8
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


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Originally Posted by StoopidMonkey81 View Post
To answer the sheen question, the existing paint job is an eggshell or satin latex and the new paint is eggshell latex, so I wouldn't be priming for bonding issues, just to hide the spackled areas.

Just do as brush said, hit it with the aura first and let it dry, then do the whole wall.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:51 PM   #9
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Does DAP DryDex spackle need to be primed?


Correction, I believe that BM is now marketing Aura as paint and primer in one. I've used Aura Bath and Spa on unprimed sheetrock and it did not flash, at all. So chrisn would be correct. If you're using an eggshell over an eggshell, I would use a sealer like 123, as Brush said, the sheen of the 123 is closer to eggshell than a PVA (flat) primer, so the porosity is more equal across the whole wall. A PVA primer could absorb some of the sheen out of the final finish coats, giving you a lower sheen area (flash). A sealer with enamel holdout will not. The key is, as stated, what more closely matches what you're going over and what you're going over that with, the old finish and the new.
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