Do i need a transition primer???

Bob J

Have an old seasonal camp in Northern Maine. Probably painted 30- or 40 years ago with a flat white oil-base paint. Some chalking and peeling now - but not too bad. Want to repaint with acrylic latex. Brought in 6 pro painters for estimates. Each one proposed to scrape, spot prime and put on a coat of good latex paint (my choice). None mentioned putting on a coat of oil-based primer to make the transition to latex. When I suggested it - was told it wasn't necessary. When I asked the paint manufacturer - was told it was recommended. Any comments or suggestions??

sdsester

Painters suggesting you skip a primer on 30 or 40 year old oil finished walls is scary. I would use an alkyd primer, like Benjamin Moore Fresh Start, on the carefully prepped walls but a bonding latex acrylic primer would do also. You cannot get away with just spot priming. You should definitely prime the wall surfaces in total. And then you should apply two coats of the best latex acrylic finish, in the sheen you want, to do the job the way it should be done.

Obviously you should buy paint store, not box store paint.

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

chrisn

I could see maybe 1 guy saying that, but 6 "pro" painters not priming is outright unbelievable

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Matthewt1970

The only way to skip the primer is to repaint it with oil again.

__________________
Latex Primer: Good for Drywall, that's about it.
Behr Paint: The plastic buckets are good, that's about it.

jsheridan

I would definitely prime a surface that old, as that old film is completely deteriorated. Seal it off from the new finish. You also want a primer spec'd for chalky surfaces. I know a few of Ben Moore's oil primers are so. If your painters like, they can come on here and tell us why they think priming is unnecessary. Sometimes painters will tell you that stuff to keep price down. If one guy says "Yeah, prime" and two say no, and he can't sell you on the necessity, he's out. I've been there. Regardless of what they recommend, you can insist and tell them to price the extra coat

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

chrisn

good luck with that, I am betting none of them even speak English


6 painters??? unbelievable

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Brushjockey

One the other hand- for them to not suggest an oil primer but a good acrylic bonding primer, one that is made for chalkiness would be a fine idea. Peel stop ( not peel bond) would be one that would come to mind.

__________________
"It's better to come here with questions before you screw up than to come here after and ask how to fix them."- JS

chrisn

IF they had

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mr. Paint

Primers made for mildly-chalky surfaces are usually sold as "Surface Conditioner." These have penetrating oils that will tie down mild chalk on masonry, wood and metal.