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Old 09-04-2010, 10:08 PM   #1
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


We will be repainting some interior rooms of my grandmother's house soon and I had a few questions about Benjamin Moore's Aura paint. We know and plan to do the prep routine as far as cleaning with TSP, sanding/deglossing etc. We would like to not have to prime where not necessary since it is already painted, but willing to go 2 coats of Aura on all surfaces.

1) For her previously painted (everything latex) drywall in an open living/kitchen (currently beige) we are planning on using 2 coats of Sherwood Green Aura Matte. Any reason for primer?



2) For "pre-primed" white MDF beadboard and trim going up around the bottom (from the big box stores) we planned 2 coats of "White" Aura -- Satin for the beadboard and Semi-gloss for the trim. Any reason to use primer or would this suffice (aka would the 2 coats Aura stick to the pre-primed mdf stuff)? White over white here.



Any criticism on the sheen choices? Would Satin trim and Matte beadboard look better? Both Satin? I have no clue how shiny the Satin or Semi-gloss is in this line of paint or how much harder they are to work with, so any advice would be VERY helpful.



3) We're repainting the paneled doors, door trim and cabinets (also previously painted, white over white) with the same white, in a Semi-gloss. Too shiny or hard to work with? Is the satin more forgiving? We are not necessarily pros so want something easier to work with but I expect she wants her cabinets to have some shine.



Thank you for your time. We REALLY need the advice.



P.S. Is there a "clean" white that would go well with Sherwood Green (historic line) that would be better than just "White"? Or will Aura "White" still look good? Do I need something with a fancier name? She just wants clean and simple, "a white" and the Sherwood Green which she loved. Trying to avoid a white with any of the wrong hues and I figured this was fail proof.

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Old 09-04-2010, 10:23 PM   #2
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Also a couple more newbie questions, sorry.

1) TSP vs TSP substitute? She's had "dirty" grandchildren for several years and cooks very often. Will either one damage her tile floors or countertops if it was to drip on them?

2) What grit sandpaper is best for roughing up the glossy surfaces for repainting?

3) Ceiling paint. Aura vs Muresco? White over white which is more likely to get it in a single coat?

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Old 09-04-2010, 10:27 PM   #3
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kendr View Post
We will be repainting some interior rooms of my grandmother's house soon and I had a few questions about Benjamin Moore's Aura paint. We know and plan to do the prep routine as far as cleaning with TSP, sanding/deglossing etc. We would like to not have to prime where not necessary since it is already painted, but willing to go 2 coats of Aura on all surfaces.

1) For her previously painted (everything latex) drywall in an open living/kitchen (currently beige) we are planning on using 2 coats of Sherwood Green Aura Matte. Any reason for primer?





2) For "pre-primed" white MDF beadboard and trim going up around the bottom (from the big box stores) we planned 2 coats of "White" Aura -- Satin for the beadboard and Semi-gloss for the trim. Any reason to use primer or would this suffice (aka would the 2 coats Aura stick to the pre-primed mdf stuff)? White over white here.



Any criticism on the sheen choices? Would Satin trim and Matte beadboard look better? Both Satin? I have no clue how shiny the Satin or Semi-gloss is in this line of paint or how much harder they are to work with, so any advice would be VERY helpful.



3) We're repainting the paneled doors, door trim and cabinets (also previously painted, white over white) with the same white, in a Semi-gloss. Too shiny or hard to work with? Is the satin more forgiving? We are not necessarily pros so want something easier to work with but I expect she wants her cabinets to have some shine.



Thank you for your time. We REALLY need the advice.



P.S. Is there a "clean" white that would go well with Sherwood Green (historic line) that would be better than just "White"? Or will Aura "White" still look good? Do I need something with a fancier name? She just wants clean and simple, "a white" and the Sherwood Green which she loved. Trying to avoid a white with any of the wrong hues and I figured this was fail proof.
1. if the walls are pre-primed or painted, just clean the shiny, painted surfaces with tsp. let dry and apply TWO coats of finish. just apply the aura directly on top of the pre primed areas.

2. I would use eggshell for the walls, satin for the walls in the kitchen and bathrooom, and semi gloss for all trim, cabinets, and paneled doors. you want a higher sheen for cabinets and doors for scrubibility issues.

3. No matter what, don't forget there is no such thing as a washable matte or flat. even the aura matte will burnish is scrubbed. the aura is self priming in many ways, just make sure you have a clean surface for it to adhere to.

4. i would use swiss coffee for the white color. a good light off white color that goes well with green. a very safe color.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:30 PM   #4
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kendr View Post
Also a couple more newbie questions, sorry.

1) TSP vs TSP substitute? She's had "dirty" grandchildren for several years and cooks very often. Will either one damage her tile floors or countertops if it was to drip on them?

2) What grit sandpaper is best for roughing up the glossy surfaces for repainting?

3) Ceiling paint. Aura vs Muresco? White over white which is more likely to get it in a single coat?
Use the liquid TSP. it's all ready mixed and won't scratch. It'll get rid of all grease, and that's good, cause paint won't stick to grease.

Use 120 or 150 grit paper. use lightly. don't forget TSP will de-gloss as well.

AURA all the way!!! With the exception of Pratt and Lambert ACCOLADE, it's the best paint on the market. I think accolade is just as good, it's just a few bucks more affordable.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:25 PM   #5
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Thank you for the advice.

As far as the "pre-primed" MDF sheets of beadboard paneling and chair railing from Lowe's / HD, would these steps turn out a decent result?

1) A coat of Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 white primer

2) 1-2 coats Benjamin Moore Aura in Satin (also white)


So white over white over white with a "real" coat of primer on the "pre-primed". Would there be any problems with this? Not familiar with the pre-primed MDF but I'm assuming it still needs a coat of primer.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:54 PM   #6
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kendr View Post
Thank you for the advice.

As far as the "pre-primed" MDF sheets of beadboard paneling and chair railing from Lowe's / HD, would these steps turn out a decent result?

1) A coat of Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 white primer

2) 1-2 coats Benjamin Moore Aura in Satin (also white)


So white over white over white with a "real" coat of primer on the "pre-primed". Would there be any problems with this? Not familiar with the pre-primed MDF but I'm assuming it still needs a coat of primer.
the aura is self priming on many surfaces. if the MDF is pre-primed, you're good to go.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:18 PM   #7
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Ah, ok. I've been told and have read that the self priming thing is a myth when it comes to bare surfaces (although Aura is still a good quality paint).

That seems to be the consensus so I thought I would take the extra precaution of priming anyway, at least on surfaces that have never been painted or primed (with "pre primed" MDF -- sitting in the warehouse for god knows how long and the primer hardening/chalking up -- being one such surface I would consider in this category.)

I expect either way I will have to do some light fine grit sanding with the MDF; seems kind of...bristly.

I guess I am just doing the primer as a precaution and extra insurance in case the factory pre-primed and/or the Aura priming qualities are insufficient. On the drywall, doors and cabinets which have all been previously painted with latex, I plan to just use the Aura after a good cleaning.

Last edited by kendr; 09-06-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:35 AM   #8
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kendr View Post
Ah, ok. I've been told and have read that the self priming thing is a myth when it comes to bare surfaces (although Aura is still a good quality paint).

That seems to be the consensus so I thought I would take the extra precaution of priming anyway, at least on surfaces that have never been painted or primed (with "pre primed" MDF -- sitting in the warehouse for god knows how long and the primer hardening/chalking up -- being one such surface I would consider in this category.)

I expect either way I will have to do some light fine grit sanding with the MDF; seems kind of...bristly.

I guess I am just doing the primer as a precaution and extra insurance in case the factory pre-primed and/or the Aura priming qualities are insufficient. On the drywall, doors and cabinets which have all been previously painted with latex, I plan to just use the Aura after a good cleaning.
If you want to add a coat of primer first, I would use Zinsser's BIN shellac primer. A fast dry primer that won't warp the MDF like a water base would. Then put the aura on top. Remember, IT NEVER HURTS to add a coat of primer first as a cautionary step.
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:48 AM   #9
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


How will a water base primer warp the pre-primed MDF, after you said a water based paint (Aura) put on it without the primer would be OK since, "is self priming"??

So just water based paint on it alone would not hurt but putting water based primer would?

/confused

I'm just worried about the shellac based dissolving or softening the "pre-primer" (what's already on the mdf) to goop and making a huge mess. I'm so lost now but I'm just going to assume if Aura would be fine alone then the primer won't hurt. Maybe I will end up wrong.
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:45 PM   #10
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kendr View Post
How will a water base primer warp the pre-primed MDF, after you said a water based paint (Aura) put on it without the primer would be OK since, "is self priming"??

So just water based paint on it alone would not hurt but putting water based primer would?

/confused

I'm just worried about the shellac based dissolving or softening the "pre-primer" (what's already on the mdf) to goop and making a huge mess. I'm so lost now but I'm just going to assume if Aura would be fine alone then the primer won't hurt. Maybe I will end up wrong.
Aura is a fast drying finish(usually one hour). Water primers take longer to dry( 4 to 5 hours), are much THICKER, and the WATER can warp certain surfaces. A shellac is FAST DRYING. No warping there. If you are saying the surface is NOT primed or in bad shape, then a primer would NOT be a bad idea.

Trust me. I will make it simple, and offer these steps as a precaution.

Apply ONE COAT OF BIN PRIMER. WAIT AT LEAST ONE HOUR BEFORE APPLYING FINISH.

Then when the primer is dry, apply one coat of Aura paint. Apply a second ONLY if you are going to scrub or wash the walls a lot. If not, you are done!!!! It's ALWAYS a safe bet to apply a primer, even though it isn't always neccessary. And since I am not there in person to make the judgement or not of it needing primer, I will side with caution.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:21 AM   #11
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DIYer - Using Aura over various surfaces in grandma's house. Please help!


i'm with the above. i've never noticed a need to two coat the nicer paints. usually a minor touch up with the brush will fill in any missed pin holes

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