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-   -   Deck repainting suggestions... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/deck-repainting-suggestions-83123/)

YFZBOB 10-05-2010 11:47 AM

Deck repainting suggestions...
 
Hello, I'm a DIY homeowner. I have a cabin in the SoCal Mountains (above snow level) The deck was previously stained when it was built, but the last owner painted the deck with a latex paint before they sold the cabin. It's now peeling as predicted. I'm planning on pressure-washing and repainting the deck to a dark brown. I need a recommendation on a primer and paint.
Will having a higher VOC = better paint?

Please do not post Hire a contractor as a recommendation. :jester:

Thanks in Advance, Bob

hammerheart14 10-07-2010 01:27 AM

[quote=YFZBOB;511881]Hello, I'm a DIY homeowner. I have a cabin in the SoCal Mountains (above snow level) The deck was previously stained when it was built, but the last owner painted the deck with a latex paint before they sold the cabin. It's now peeling as predicted. I'm planning on pressure-washing and repainting the deck to a dark brown. I need a recommendation on a primer and paint.
Will having a higher VOC = better paint?

Please do not post Hire a contractor as a recommendation. :jester:


Bob, I am the manager of the best paint store in Big Bear, Conklin Paints. I have been doing this for fourteen years. It's always best to use a stain up here, because it's less maintenence. When it fails, there's no scraping, sanding, priming. It would be worth it to get it down to raw wood. Is is redwood, or doug fir? If it's fir, get at least the paint off to around 90%, then go with a semi solid oil stain ( we are exempt with oil stains, so we get the good, high voc stuff) If you shovel the snow off the deck during the winter, it can last up to two to three years, and when it fails, if will just fade away!

if it redwood in good shape, you could go with a transparent stain to show off the beauty, but you will only get one year out of it, then you must redo it again. If you don't want to sand off the paint, then go with an oil primer first then two coats of cabot's solid acrylic deck paint: http://www.cabotstain.com/pdf/SCDK1800.pdf. I carry both oil primer and the cabot product.

But, really, the best way is to get most of the paint off and go with a high voc semi solid stain. rememeber, the KEY is to shovel the snow off your deck with a plastic headed shovel! And we can sell these high voc stains in Big Bear because we are above 4,000 feet (inversion layer) so you can't get this stuff at home depot or Lowe's. We are also cheaper than the other stores up here, and have more knowledge and better customer service. Our phone number is 909 866-3878 and my name is jared. Give me a call!

http://www.cabotstain.com/pdf/SCDK1800.pdf

housepaintingny 10-07-2010 08:47 AM

Your going to want to strip the paint off, otherwise it could cause lifting of anything you apply over it in the future and also a stain will not absorb through the paint. The best bet would be to see if you can rent a floor sander. They have floor sanders ment for decks and nail heads. At least try to strip the walking surface. After stripping the paint wash the surface with a product such as deck brite or safe wash. Both products can be found on line. They will both clean, open the wood poures, and brighten the deck before staining. They don't contain bleach, which can damage the wood over the long haul. Then I would apply cabot semi-solid stain.

YFZBOB 10-07-2010 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerheart14 (Post 512816)
if it redwood in good shape, you could go with a transparent stain to show off the beauty, but you will only get one year out of it, then you must redo it again. If you don't want to sand off the paint, then go with an oil primer first then two coats of cabot's solid acrylic deck paint: http://www.cabotstain.com/pdf/SCDK1800.pdf. I carry both oil primer and the cabot product.

It's Redwood for sure... I spot sanded a section down to bare wood. WOW! You talked me into it :thumbsup:. As suggested by housepaintingny. I'll be renting a floor sander. Moister in the deck is high right now. Jared, when I'm ready I'll stop by the store. :thumbup:

Thanks Guys!!! Awesome answers:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:!!!

housepaintingny 10-07-2010 10:44 AM

You could buy or rent a moisture meter too and don't forget to clean and brighten prior to staining. Its a step that many don't do properly or they use chemicals with bleach which bleaches out the wood and loosens the glues.

ebgascoyne 10-07-2010 03:04 PM

sealer for 100+ year old multi-wood porch floor?
 
We've got wonderful covered porches on 3-sides of our home, all with 100+ year old fir, (plus some new mahagony on the back porch where extreme exposure rotted the fir and had to be replaced) - all porches are covered only by roofing, no side coverage anywhere; ALL fir and mahagony are stripped/sanded to bare wood - we don't want to stain (we like the natural wood as-is) if we don't have to, but we do need to seal of course. I've read about Sikkens Cetol SRD, Cabot Seal, Rhino Guard (can't find it anywhere, out of business?) and others but am unsure which is best suited .... PA winters are mild with some snow and of course seasonal rain. Would greatly appreciate your help/advice for colorless and low maintenance sealer. Thanks much!

housepaintingny 10-07-2010 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebgascoyne (Post 513004)
We've got wonderful covered porches on 3-sides of our home, all with 100+ year old fir, (plus some new mahogany on the back porch where extreme exposure rotted the fir and had to be replaced) - all porches are covered only by roofing, no side coverage anywhere; ALL fir and mahogany are stripped/sanded to bare wood - we don't want to stain (we like the natural wood as-is) if we don't have to, but we do need to seal of course. I've read about Sikkens Cetol SRD, Cabot Seal, Rhino Guard (can't find it anywhere, out of business?) and others but am unsure which is best suited .... PA winters are mild with some snow and of course seasonal rain. Would greatly appreciate your help/advice for colorless and low maintenance sealer. Thanks much!

On the mahogany decking I would use Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Clean, brighten, and sand with 80 grit then apply one coat of the Timber Oil

ebgascoyne 10-07-2010 04:23 PM

Thanks, but if I use the Timber Oil on the mahagony section, and Cetol SRD on the fir, won't the two products on two different woods result in two completely different 'finishes'? The mahagony is a newer floor section that abuts the older fir so they co-exist as one flooring surface - and I know the Timber Oil won't distribute evenly into the fir... do you think the SRD will work well on both woods? Help!?

housepaintingny 10-07-2010 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebgascoyne (Post 513052)
Thanks, but if I use the Timber Oil on the mahagony section, and Cetol SRD on the fir, won't the two products on two different woods result in two completely different 'finishes'? The mahagony is a newer floor section that abuts the older fir so they co-exist as one flooring surface - and I know the Timber Oil won't distribute evenly into the fir... do you think the SRD will work well on both woods? Help!?

The SRD will work on both types of wood. I dint relise you had another type of wood adjoining. We use Cabot and Sikkens products for decks depending on the circumstance.

ebgascoyne 10-07-2010 04:40 PM

excellent - i've ordered samples of the natural and natural light to test on old porch boards we've got (from when the mahogany was installed) - wow, just realized i finally spelled mahogany correctly! i've tried to post pics of the floor before stripped/sanding, hope to share them soon along with the finished sealed result ~ many thanks!

hammerheart14 10-07-2010 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by housepaintingny (Post 513039)
On the mahogany decking I would use Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Clean, brighten, and sand with 80 grit then apply one coat of the Timber Oil

I would suggest that if he wants to show off the beauty of redwood. if he wants longevity over cosmetics, a semi sold oil stain will last twice as long before he has to restain again.

hammerheart14 10-07-2010 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebgascoyne (Post 513052)
Thanks, but if I use the Timber Oil on the mahagony section, and Cetol SRD on the fir, won't the two products on two different woods result in two completely different 'finishes'? The mahagony is a newer floor section that abuts the older fir so they co-exist as one flooring surface - and I know the Timber Oil won't distribute evenly into the fir... do you think the SRD will work well on both woods? Help!?

Cabot is just as good quality as Sikkens, but cheaper. I have used it with exellent results. If you want A TRANSPARENT OIL STAIN, go with the Austrailian Timber Oil. Just don't use anything that builds up a sheen or a "skin"


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