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Old 03-27-2013, 07:57 PM   #46
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


Right on BJ. The larger part of our job involves repairing/preparing walls/trim for paint. Painting is about 20% of what we do. And yes, you, me, + Gymschu = 75+ years alone. I don't think we need advice from GC's, plumbers, or HVAC people about how to do our jobs or advise. Three pages of posts largely dedicated to arguing about generally accepted practices versus tearing out walls to rid them of decals, ridiculous. We could have taught OP how to skim coat in three pages. I'm a true believer in division of labor. Echo, stay in the forum of your trade, and I'll stay in mine.

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Old 03-27-2013, 11:53 PM   #47
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


To put it simply, when the OP states in plain English that replacing the drywall is out of the question, whether it's cheaper, faster or easier, they simply don't want or feel the need to take that action on. So, with that said, I think we should explore other avenues than replacing the entire wall, or just come to a consensus that the skim coat would be his best approach to fixing said issue. I for one concur with this option.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:14 AM   #48
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Right on BJ. The larger part of our job involves repairing/preparing walls/trim for paint. Painting is about 20% of what we do. And yes, you, me, + Gymschu = 75+ years alone. I don't think we need advice from GC's, plumbers, or HVAC people about how to do our jobs or advise. Three pages of posts largely dedicated to arguing about generally accepted practices versus tearing out walls to rid them of decals, ridiculous. We could have taught OP how to skim coat in three pages. I'm a true believer in division of labor. Echo, stay in the forum of your trade, and I'll stay in mine.

So what am I , chopped liver? I am offended
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:39 AM   #49
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So what am I , chopped liver? I am offended


My humblest of apologies. I was basically going by who was participating in that thread alone. I knew Gymschu was but didn't realize that you had slipped a comment in there as well.
Now we're up to 150 years
Peace!
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:15 AM   #50
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


Can I throw in my $.02 about this. As I put this on the same level as using 1/4" drywall as a cover up. It very seldom works, ends up being more work, and usually causes more problems. And as far as skimming the walls there are several ways to do it and it could be done in a day. Let's be real say 1 day for demo, 1 day to hang the rock(and I think I'm being generous here), with drying times at least 2 days for mud and tape. 1 day to prime and 1st coat, 1 day to second coat, 1 day to re-trim, 1 day to load and take demo materials to the dump. Notice I didn't put the cost in. And this is all because there is a stain on the wall.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:08 PM   #51
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My humblest of apologies. I was basically going by who was participating in that thread alone. I knew Gymschu was but didn't realize that you had slipped a comment in there as well.
Now we're up to 150 years
Peace!

100 will be fine, thank you very much
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:17 PM   #52
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So what am I , chopped liver? I am offended

Sorry, I duplicated the previous post.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:52 PM   #53
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


I am just going to suggest some other other solvents to you. Rubber cement thinner, if you can still buy it at an art supply store near you, may work. GooGone, Oops and other such things in liquid or rattle cans usually work well on most adhesives. You can get them at your paint store or a real hardware store. Good old WD-40 works to break down many adhesives but leaves even more a nasty, oily mess than other solvents mentioned. If me? Try the rubber cement thinnner. Seems to me acetone would be a very specific solvent. It evaporates and goes airborne so quickly I cannot believe you are having success with it.

Use any solvents with adequate ventilation. Just a suggestion by the way, if you are working with acetone fumes on a regular basis without like a jet engine fan and windows open? You might want to buy a nice aspirator for $50 or whatever. Killed brain cells do not grow back they say.

You will end up with a scarred wall though so you should read up on how to seal it and skim coat over it with drywall compound. We talk about it here often and it is second nature to many of us. It involves sealing the wall with the proper primer, in your case something like GARDZ comes to mind. Then using a wide drywall knife and thinned drywall mud you fill in and resurface the wall. Then you wet or sand lightly with grit paper. You prime again and should be ready for new paint or paper. Sounds ominous and daunting but you can do it if you want. One of us who has been doing it for too, too long will be but more practiced at what is not rocket science.

Adding more drywall in this situation is not necessary and as stated strikes me as a stupid suggestion too.

Last edited by user1007; 03-29-2013 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:07 AM   #54
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I am just going to suggest some other other solvents to you. Rubber cement thinner, if you can still buy it at an art supply store near you, may work. GooGone, Oops and other such things in liquid or rattle cans usually work well on most adhesives. You can get them at your paint store or a real hardware store. Good old WD-40 works to break down many adhesives but leaves even more a nasty, oily mess than other solvents mentioned. If me? Try the rubber cement thinnner. Seems to me acetone would be a very specific solvent. It evaporates and goes airborne so quickly I cannot believe you are having success with it.

Use any solvents with adequate ventilation. Just a suggestion by the way, if you are working with acetone fumes on a regular basis without like a jet engine fan and windows open? You might want to buy a nice aspirator for $50 or whatever. Killed brain cells do not grow back they say.

You will end up with a scarred wall though so you should read up on how to seal it and skim coat over it with drywall compound. We talk about it here often and it is second nature to many of us. It involves sealing the wall with the proper primer, in your case something like GARDZ comes to mind. Then using a wide drywall knife and thinned drywall mud you fill in and resurface the wall. Then you wet or sand lightly with grit paper. You prime again and should be ready for new paint or paper. Sounds ominous and daunting but you can do it if you want. One of us who has been doing it for too, too long will be but more practiced at what is not rocket science.

Adding more drywall in this situation is not necessary and as stated strikes me as a stupid suggestion too.

The mod police are watching
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:50 AM   #55
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The mod police are watching
Yeah well I hope they note I don't whine like a little one about not being included in the years of experience total. And come on Chris, real painters don't brag about hanging pre-pasted wallpaper. Hanging paper is a girly man thing and we all know you sucker your misordering mistakes on us as gift paper! Sold usually by tiny little innocent children.

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