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Old 03-25-2013, 07:49 AM   #16
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


I've done that, BJ. Tried the hairdryer, hot water, and steaming which are mostly what I found in those how-tos. I also tried mineral spirits, wallpaper remover, rubbing alcohol, and acetone out of desperation.

I think it's a case of what jsheridan said, however they applied them made them permanent. There's no lifting when heat's applied and even trying in many places they don't ever peel up.

I think if the acetone is a bad idea priming, sanding, and skimming is the only solution. Directly sanding the decals has surprisingly little effect.

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Old 03-25-2013, 07:57 AM   #17
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


If they are tight with little relief- the skim should be easy.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:23 AM   #18
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I appreciate your confidence in my skills! :D

Would you just skim where the decals were and feather it out from there? I'm worried about "bulges" in the wall.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:36 AM   #19
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


I would avoid using the acetone at any cost. Toxic to you as well as mucking up the walls.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:48 AM   #20
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


prime it first - Gardz should seal it up well. Then using lite taping compound like plus 3 , and with a 12" taping blade go over the decal area with a thin layer - you do want to fan past them so you dont have bulges. It will take a bit to get a feel for how to do this if you haven't before.
let dry and use a light in your hand at an angle to see when you sand to get it smooth. When you do this you will understand how that helps.
Use a hand sander with 150 paper- you have a thin coat of a very easy to sand mud, so it will come off very easy. Dont sand back to the point where the decals are popping through again.
When satisfied, prime again only use a pigmented prime so you can see better.

Good luck!
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #21
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Okay, thanks for all of the help! I'm not looking forward to doing this in the kitchen and the entire front hallway, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:07 AM   #22
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If you want to get a sander that hooks up to a shop vac- this is the one i use. Really helps to keep the dust down. Then you use with a sanding screen.

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/D...um-Sander.html
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:14 AM   #23
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


A couple suggestions if you can get it use the ultra lite mud it has a ugly green lid and is sold at most big box stores. For skim coat it is great. If you can't get it use light weight #3 has bright blue lid. For a skim coat you can water it down mix it and apply it with a 1/2" nap paint roller. You can go to your local Sherwin Williams store and get a tool called a magic trowel it looks like a squeegee, use this to remove the mud and you won't get that 1" build-up. The trowel costs about $20. And be sure when you are ready to paint that you have the primer tinted, and use a quality primer as some of those dark colors may show thru.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:35 AM   #24
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Here's a vid-- He should have primed his walls first because of the paste residue- but at least you can get an idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cs3I4z0RhCM


LOL- Found this guy who has done what I also have- invented one with a sponge sander

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raihCPDcWj8
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:02 AM   #25
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I still believe the man in that video is a wizard, but I'm going to give it a shot.

Quick question about joint compound, should you work it at first to loosen it up? I'm pretty sure you're supposed to do that but what do I know?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:26 PM   #26
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As tool said- add a little water. If you get a 5 g pail, I 'd pour about a cup into it and stir that in as deep as you can. Then when you come to where it isn't "loosened up, do it again.
There are stir paddles that fit on 1/2 ( not 3/8th like most are) drills . You probably don't have one, so go with the stir method. i do it all the time too.

If you use the roller method ( which I haven't ) you probably need it like thick pancake batter.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:51 PM   #27
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Yea brush just thick enough so you can roll it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUxt_...4607BAE5404D62
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:04 PM   #28
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


I wouldn't skim anything on top of it and not expect cracking over time. Granted, it sounds like that stuff is seriously well bonded to the wall surface. But it's still a different material and things do tend to expand/contract at different rates, leading to cracking. It'd be one thing to just prime and repaint, as paints tend to be more flexible. But a skim coat of plastic or compound? Not sure I'd go that route.

I'd try the wallpaper remover and saran wrap trick. We did that with some really stuck paper on old plaster-on-lath walls and it worked, eventually. And left the plaster surface in decent enough shape.

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Old 03-25-2013, 04:24 PM   #29
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Decal Removal Holding Up Paint


Hey Brian, this is John. Glad you're getting some sound advice. I asked another friend of mine who works at a SW dealer what he thinks, and he says a product made by X-I-M called Peel Bond (not really intended for this application but more for exterior siding) might work.

What do you guys think? I don't want to give wrong advice, but just curious about this product and if any of you have experience with it. It's got a pretty high mil and self leveling, but I'm not sure if it would adhere to plaster or drywall, or even this mural
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:03 PM   #30
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Peel Bond is very cool stuff, and i find uses that are a bit out of the box too.
It could work, but to an unexperienced painter- to get it on heavy, evenly and not sagging might be asking a bit much. And it would be a fairly expensive ($60/gal?) experiment. Not a bad idea though.

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