Does anyone know what causes this ceiling paint to crack? The attached photo is just outside of my bathroom door. There is a fairly large fan in the bathroom that I keep on during showers and remains on 15-20 minutes after due to all the moisture (wet walls). This was also in my entire kitchen and only stopped at the drywall seems to the living room and hallway.
Not sure if this is a paint, drywall, or ventilation (moisture) issue.
How old is the house? The reason I'm asking is, did someone paint Latex over oil based paint with out using a sealing primer first?
Paint without using primer first?
Someone painted over a dirty or stained ceiling?
Anyone of these can cause this type of failiure.
Try going on the Sherwin Williams web site. There's a lot of info on how to ID paint failures and what to do about them.
A bathroom ceiling fan does not exhaust steam as fast as a shower creates it. I've seen before where escaping steam has damaged beyond the bath. As to the kitchen, steam is an issue there as well. Washing dishes, both in the sink and dishwasher especially, generates heat/steam. As does cooking. It's not quite as common for steam damage in a kitchen, but the bath and kitchen, as well as the laundry room, are the sources of moisture in a house. That you're having issues in both those areas is no surprise. The paint in that picture looks flat, or low, low sheen, either of which is too low to block steam penetration, and that damage, the crazed, cracking/peeling is indicative of steam. I would prepare the surfaces and apply a proper finish.
The paint in that picture looks flat, or low, low sheen, either of which is too low to block steam penetration, and that damage, the crazed, cracking/peeling is indicative of steam.
Good advice given so far. I might add that it's also possible that the bathroom vents into the attic space above the bath & is laying moisture above that peeled area. Not saying that's what's happening, but, it wouldn't hurt to check in the attic to make sure the vent goes up through the roof like it's supposed to.
I was planning to get back to that question, but was basically going to say the same thing. lol. It's like knowing how to get to a place, but not knowing how to tell someone else to find it.
I will certainly defer to the ricster- but a flat by nature is very porous- the molecules don't tightly bind to each other like a sheened paint. That is what causes a flat to be flat- that and the grind of the pigments is rougher- so more deflection .
Also why a flat absorbs dirt and grime more.
I will certainly defer to the ricster- but a flat by nature is very porous- the molecules don't tightly bind to each other like a sheened paint. That is what causes a flat to be flat- that and the grind of the pigments is rougher- so more deflection .
Also why a flat absorbs dirt and grime more.
Flats have a much different ratio of binder (Resin) to pigment. Flats have a greater amount of filler pigments and become less resistant to moisture and mor prone to "mud cracking" as pictured. A 100% Acrylic Eggshell or Satin will provide the moisture-resistance that is needed here. BTW: Gym has it right about that vent; see where the moisture goes. If it is venting to outdoors, yyou may want to pull a Tim-The-Toolman and get a more powerful fan.
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