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Old 07-16-2012, 12:26 PM   #1
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Caulking the gaps


Flat baseboard on a slighly wonky wall.
It's nailed nice and tight with some gaps here and there from the wall.

With good old BM 464 caulk...do I just run a tight bead and just tool it. Or am I better taping both sides and then tooling it. I have not used this stuff in ages..

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Old 07-16-2012, 01:30 PM   #2
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Caulking the gaps


No tooling or tape ever needed.
Get a small bowl of water and a stiff sponge, the ones with the Scotch Brite pads on the back work best.
Make a very small hole in the tip, only use a tiny amount of caulking, wipe on with your finger, then wipe down with a damp sponge, then hit it one more time with your finger.

There should only be caulking in the gap, none on the wall or trim if it's done right.

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Old 07-16-2012, 01:59 PM   #3
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Caulking the gaps


Double tooling with a sponge in between.

As long as I'm not spreading gobs....and it's tooled good, that was the plan of attack.

This is the 1st I've read of triple tooling...
Wipe, sponge, wipe. Is this a common tricks of the trade routine ?


I'll do the whole tape / mineral spirits routine with silicone or fully urethane stuff, and even with that, it's a single swipe/tooling with mineral spirits.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:06 PM   #4
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Caulking the gaps


The spong will leave a spot at the end of the wipe and it's rough so the finish is not smooth. Once the caulking get damp a quick wipe with a finger will leave it glass smooth.
Once you try it you should be able to do a whole bed room in less then 1/2 hour including window trim and door trim.
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:26 PM   #5
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Caulking the gaps


Clean the surface to be caulked of any debris or rough edges. I pipe out an appropriate size bead of caulk, tool it with my finger and wipe the excess with a damp terry cloth. I see no reason to have to go over it twice unless you have particularly wide or otherwise large gaps in places.

Remember you cannot paint silicone! You can get paintable caulk with some silicone in it for flexibility but pure silicone is a nightmare. It is a Royal PITA to carve out of the way if it fails or moisture gets under it or behind it too.

Tape will serve no helpful purpose and you will end up with a ridge of material next to it if you use it. Do get a quality caulking gun. The ones that swivel are especially nice but definitely get one with nice ratchet action.

If you have some laying around, wire nuts make great caps for tubes of caulk.

Last edited by user1007; 07-16-2012 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:21 PM   #6
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Caulking the gaps


I use BM 445 cause I like the paintable urethan properties of it.
I've stopped using wire nuts. I usually end up squeezing out a bit for the excess forms a cap - when I need to reuse, I just pull off the hardened excess and viola.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:16 AM   #7
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Caulking the gaps


Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Clean the surface to be caulked of any debris or rough edges. I pipe out an appropriate size bead of caulk, tool it with my finger and wipe the excess with a damp terry cloth. I see no reason to have to go over it twice unless you have particularly wide or otherwise large gaps in places.

Remember you cannot paint silicone! You can get paintable caulk with some silicone in it for flexibility but pure silicone is a nightmare. It is a Royal PITA to carve out of the way if it fails or moisture gets under it or behind it too.

Tape will serve no helpful purpose and you will end up with a ridge of material next to it if you use it. Do get a quality caulking gun. The ones that swivel are especially nice but definitely get one with nice ratchet action.

If you have some laying around, wire nuts make great caps for tubes of caulk.

Any quality gun will be or say DRIPLESS, very important
I work with another paperhanger painter friend from time to time and she still uses these $3.99 guns from blowes, drives me nuts

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