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Old 02-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #1
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Caulk Recommendations?

Hey everyone.

I'm trying to help my friends with their project, but am not sure of the best caulk for bathrooms or windows. Any recommendations?

Also, what is the best application tool? Those metal guns just seem difficult to use.

Any help would be appreciated. The people at the stores don't know a whole lot.



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Old 02-14-2013, 03:29 PM   #2
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I only use Alex 230.
Get used to the caulking guns it's the fastest easyest way.
Make a really small hole in the tip, the biggest mistake people make is applying to much.
There's 0 since in getting it all over the trim and wall, only need to fill the gap.
Get a small bowl and fill it with water to clean off your hands.
Apply it with the gun wipe it in with your finger then wipe over it with a damp sponge. Rince the sponge out on the bowl.


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Old 02-14-2013, 04:38 PM   #3
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like joe said small hole and don't put down too much.
best application tool is still a damp finger.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:52 PM   #4
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When you wipe it smooth, try not to remove too much material. A common mistake people make is leaving too thin a bead that breaks easily with structural movement. Think of a tiny rubber band and a thick rubber band. Strech them both and see which breaks first.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:14 PM   #5
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And the best for your application is right on the tube kitchen and bath and 1 tube window and door.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:04 PM   #6
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If you have a Ben Moore store nearby, buy some BM caulk. The easiest to work with I've found.
Here is a repost from awhile back on caulking, link is here

I like my tips cut below 45 degrees, as I think 45 doesn't give as much pinpoint accuracy. I like the hole to be just wide enough to take a finish nail.
Keep the tip resting on the surface.
Work the trigger with gentle, even, steady pressure. No pumping the trigger.
Keep the gun moving. Your speed is how you adjust the amount applied.
Don't surface fill joints. If you have a decent sized gap, move slower so the gap fills. If you move too fast you'll only apply enough to bridge the gap and the stuff will shrink and open up.
Caulk everything. Technically, all wood joins should be caulked, whether they're gapped or not. What is tight and closed now might not be in six months after settlement, especially important exterior. Also, if you have a stretch of baseboard with caulked/non-caulked sections, it could be noticeable when you're done. Remember, you're altering a surface, and paint highlights altered surfaces.
Use two hands. One on the trigger with the end of the gun cupped in the other, like a shotgun.
Always work backwards into previously caulked areas.
Apply your bead, not getting too far ahead, keep a wet rag, wet your finger to smooth. Wipe the excess on your rag.
If you caulk doorframe mitres, fill the gap and rub it in/wipe with the rag.
When you run down a door frame return, don't stop in the corner at the base, take it out on to the base an inch or two. When the frames are done, just run the base and connect the two door frames.
Be sure that you dust the surface prior to caulking.
For real tight detail work, you can use a small latex brush and a pot of water.
Be mindful not to round your corners. Don't apply too much that you obliterate the 90 degree angle of trim joints.
Use caulk to reinforce the drywall corners. Applying a bead of caulk around the ceiling perimeter also helps to get a nice clean cut line when you're working with high contrast colors.
Get a good quality dripless gun. A cheap caulk gun is the worst possible tool anyone could buy.
I use caulk for a lot of purposes, and I'm pretty anal about how it's applied. There is nothing more detracting to a paint finish than a lousy caulk job. Take your time.

Oh, and never caulk unprimed wood, gypsum, or other porous surfaces. It will draw the vehicle out of the caulk, it will lose its elasticity, and will fail prematurely. Always putty and caulk after priming.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #7
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... And NEVER use 100% silicone caulk on anything that will EVER be painted. ( or clear coated- any finish)
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:23 AM   #8
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also alex brand is hardly quality caulk
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:32 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by chrisn View Post
also alex brand is hardly quality caulk


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