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Old 12-09-2008, 11:02 AM   #1
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caulk recommendation


any recommendation for which caulk to use on interior trim such as baseboards, casing and crown moulding.

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Old 12-09-2008, 01:11 PM   #2
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caulk recommendation


If it were me, I would use a latex caulk (not "chaulk"). And "sponge caulk" the joints. That is, after appling a THIN bead of caulk over the joint, wipe it into the joint with your finger and then use a damp sponge (rinsed out frequently) to clean the remaining caulk off.

The result is that the joint between the door frame and drywall (say) is filled but there's no visible bead of caulk between the two. Then you can paint over that caulk and it looks perfect.

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Old 12-09-2008, 02:07 PM   #3
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caulk recommendation


I use 55 yr elastomeric caulk. It will flex rather than crack.
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:16 PM   #4
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caulk recommendation


You want Siliconized Paintable Elastomeric Latex. I use DAP Dynaflex 230, others here have reported good luck with White Lightning. Sherwin owns White Lightning and sells their own line, which should be of similar quality.

Avoid GE Caulk like the plague.

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Old 12-09-2008, 07:27 PM   #5
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caulk recommendation


Quote:
Originally Posted by sirwired
You want Siliconized Paintable Elastomeric Latex.
...DAP Dynaflex 230
...White Lightning.
...Sherwin sells their own line
+
...Benjamin Moore's house brand
...Phenoseal
All good when you get up to the 35/45/55 year mark
(the increase in "years" is a general indication of quality)

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Originally Posted by sirwired
Avoid GE Caulk like the plague
Yup
Maybe it's great for your washing machine, refrigerator, or nuclear bomb, but as a house painter's caulk...not so much
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:46 PM   #6
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caulk recommendation


Gentlemen:

I think we all have to recognize that appearance plays a vital role here. The purpose of a caulk around a crown molding isn't to stop drafts; it's to hide the gap that's gonna show up between the crown molding and wall or ceiling. I don't know which would look worse, that gap, or a bead of caulk covering it.

That's why I'm suggesting the OP use a water based caulk (and the name of the caulk or manufacturer is irrelevent) and follow up by wiping off any caulk that isn't in the gap with a damp sponge. That way you have neither a gap nor a bead of caulk to look at. You end up with crown molding (or door frame or baseboard) that looks like it fits to the wall or ceiling perfectly.

Can we agree that the best option here is to have what appears to be NO seam between the moldings and the surrounding surfaces rather than a bead of caulk between the moldings and surrounding surfaces? And, you can only do that easily with a water based caulk so that you can remove the excess caulk with a damp sponge.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:01 AM   #7
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caulk recommendation


Quote:
Originally Posted by wpgtkd View Post
any recommendation for which caulk to use on interior trim such as baseboards, casing and crown moulding.
For interior use: Any latex based caulking will work.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:16 PM   #8
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caulk recommendation


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Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
For interior use: Any latex based caulking will work.
The problem I have had with the non-elastomeric caulks is that they get so hard over time, and will not expand and contract with the wood as well as the more flexible elastomerics. This leads to cracks sooner rather than later.

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Old 12-10-2008, 09:22 PM   #9
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caulk recommendation


the cheapest latex painters caulk that you can find.
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:19 PM   #10
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caulk recommendation


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Originally Posted by drewhart View Post
the cheapest latex painters caulk that you can find.
That's what I'd use.
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:15 AM   #11
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caulk recommendation


the cheapest latex painters caulk that you can find.

And the reason being?
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:47 AM   #12
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caulk recommendation


Personally, I have had great luck with siliconized latex such as Alex Plus. It is inexpensive, paintable and will expand and contract with temperature changes and slight shifts. And for larger voids, such as chips in the wood, bad joint due to walls etc, fill the void, then wet your finger and lightly rub across the void. Once painted it will be virtually invisible.
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Old 12-12-2008, 07:48 AM   #13
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caulk recommendation


Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisn View Post
the cheapest latex painters caulk that you can find.

And the reason being?
Because latex caulk is more paintable than the siliconized types and the project is only filling small gaps and once it is all painted there will be very little if any wood movement.
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:21 AM   #14
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caulk recommendation


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Originally Posted by bradnailer View Post
Because latex caulk is more paintable than the siliconized types and the project is only filling small gaps and once it is all painted there will be very little if any wood movement.
yeah thats why. and because thats what i have been using for years under the same logic with no problems ever.
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Old 12-13-2008, 05:20 AM   #15
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caulk recommendation


there will be very little if any wood movement.


How do you know this fact?

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