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Old 04-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #1
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


No, I can't remove the baseboards. (I don't think) Would that be a simple thing a female could do (who is brave but not handy).

There is natural wood trim in the house. I want white trim.

The carpet will be replaced whenever the painting is done so I don't care about getting paint on it.

Looking at the baseboards it seems the old carpet will stick to the lower part of baseboards when I paint them. I wondered about holding down the carpet with a flat wide metal thing as I go along painting, but I can't sit in one spot waiting for paint to dry.

I want the baseboards to look nice when new carpet is put in.

help.

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Old 04-24-2012, 11:39 AM   #2
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


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No, I can't remove the baseboards. (I don't think) Would that be a simple thing a female could do (who is brave but not handy).

There is natural wood trim in the house. I want white trim.

The carpet will be replaced whenever the painting is done so I don't care about getting paint on it.

Looking at the baseboards it seems the old carpet will stick to the lower part of baseboards when I paint them. I wondered about holding down the carpet with a flat wide metal thing as I go along painting, but I can't sit in one spot waiting for paint to dry.

I want the baseboards to look nice when new carpet is put in.

help.
Hiya SO...

Whether you're replacing carpet or not, a good way to paint the baseboard is take a good quality, 1.5" or 2" masking tape (good quality is determined not by how well it adheres, but how well it releases when it's supposed to) and tear off a strip about 24" long. With the adhesive side facing you, slide the tape between the baseboard and carpet allowing it to adhere to the carpeting - pull the tape forward (which moves the carpet away from the base) and press the remainder firmly into the carpet beyond the baseboard (1 - 2 inches depending on the width of the tape.) Repeat this same procedure for the remainder of the room overlapping the previous taped surface by about 1-2"...Paint, allow to dry, remove tape.

That's a pretty simple, but effective system for a DIYer - but if you're removing, and replacing carpet, don't believe that your freshly painted baseboard isn't gonna get a whole lot dinged up during the new carpet's installation...be prepared to have to touch up your baseboard following installation and the above described method is a good way to keep the paint off the new carpet, and the new carpet off the freshly touched up base. Good luck.

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Old 04-24-2012, 11:45 AM   #3
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


If there's a sealer over that wood your going to have to sand, clean it off and go over it with a bonding primer before painting.
I've been using a tape that has about 2" of adhesive on one side and is craft paper for the other 2". Home Depot has it.
Works for me.

Last edited by joecaption; 04-24-2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:19 PM   #4
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WOW. I never would have thought of tape!!! I'm very excited about this idea.

Sanding? oh forgot about that part. I don't like sanding, I just like painting, but I realize the importance of sanding so I'll do it. (ugh) I'm just so anxious to see the finished results.

As for bonding primer Is that just different than regular primer?

A girlfriend, in another state, used something that you paint on so you don't have to sand and she said that it never dried properly. It is still 'tacky' to the touch and she waited the recommended time before painting.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #5
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


It's called a deglosser, not a big fan of it.
No one likes sanding but if you want it to stay stuck to the trim it really needs to be done. It give the paint something to hang onto.

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Old 04-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #6
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


See if this helps.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...ior-preparing/
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #7
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


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WOW. I never would have thought of tape!!! I'm very excited about this idea.

Sanding? oh forgot about that part. I don't like sanding, I just like painting, but I realize the importance of sanding so I'll do it. (ugh) I'm just so anxious to see the finished results.

As for bonding primer Is that just different than regular primer?

A girlfriend, in another state, used something that you paint on so you don't have to sand and she said that it never dried properly. It is still 'tacky' to the touch and she waited the recommended time before painting.
Necessary to any successful paint job is proper surface prep - surface must be clean and free of waxes, grease, dirt etc...glossy, slick surfaces should be lightly sanded for better bonding of new coating. Depending on what is on the surface now, and what you're finishing with, will determine whether it's necessary to prime - or not. So before taking on any extraneous steps to paint, read the product label and talk with your local independent paint dealer for his/her recommendation regarding adequate prep and priming.

Without more info regarding your friend, it's impossible to say, with certainty, why the coating hasn't cured properly. My guess is, though, it has a lot to do with that "wonder" product that eliminates the need for sanding. When prepping a surface to paint, every single paint manufacturer advises light, scuff sanding over slick, glossy surfaces. Rarely do they recommend short-cut methods such as liquid sanding agents, unless it is a product of their own manufacturer.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:18 PM   #8
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


Today bought my first painting tools. A long handle roller (but not the rollers) and a pan. I also got a plastic liner for the pan. I figure I can reach higher and not have to spend so much time on a ladder, with the long roller.

What is the purpose of the plastic liners that fit inside the pans?

Also found some paint, 50% off, that evidently was mixed in error, so bought that for closets as it's a pleasant pastel.

Even tho I won't be painting for a few weeks I was told I could take the cans back to put in the shaker. I still need sandpaper, tacky rags, and turpentine to clean brushes and that tape for the carpet.

I assume brushes will be labeled which are better for oil based paint & latex.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:31 PM   #9
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


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Today bought my first painting tools. A long handle roller (but not the rollers) and a pan. I also got a plastic liner for the pan. I figure I can reach higher and not have to spend so much time on a ladder, with the long roller.

What is the purpose of the plastic liners that fit inside the pans?

Also found some paint, 50% off, that evidently was mixed in error, so bought that for closets as it's a pleasant pastel.

Even tho I won't be painting for a few weeks I was told I could take the cans back to put in the shaker. I still need sandpaper, tacky rags, and turpentine to clean brushes and that tape for the carpet.

I assume brushes will be labeled which are better for oil based paint & latex.
Usually you extend a roller handle with an extension pole and a good one is worth the money. Some real paint stores will have some for DIYers to borrow.

What kind of mis-tinted paint did you buy? Oil based for closets? Surprised you could even find oil based interior paint in Florida. You don't need nor want turps or solvents to clean brushes of latex paint.

You will want some NICE brushes for your work. Look for 2.5 angles sash brushes to start. Expect to pay $15 or so retail I should think. Purdy and Wooster are fave brands of mine. Get natural bristle for oil based paint if that is what you got or synthetic for latex. Take care of them and they will last you a long time. Cheap bag-o-brushes will be a nightmare to work with and will not perform even though you get 40 for $10 in sizes you will never, ever use. Just to start you will be picking bristles from your work on a regular basis.

You will need some TSP or similar cleaner for the walls and dollar store car wash sponges come in handy. Damp smaller ones might be a better choice than tack cloths for sanded trim. IMO and from experience.

You will need some flexible paintable caulk and a quality caulking gun.

Plastic liners are disposable and save the interior surface of the roller pan.

And do you have your drop cloth situation in order? Don't buy those cheap plastic ones. At least get heavy plastic if you must but expect dried paint to fly off them and end up everywhere if you try and use them more than once.

The tape suggestion will work fine for you. Get wide tape though. And a drywall knife comes in handy to press it down in place between the baseboard and carpet. Work out of a small container of paint and not a full gallon to be safe around carpeting. Never happened to me but I often imagined knocking half a gallon of paint on to wtw carpeting by accident! Kitchen section of dollar stores have great container with handles and covers that work with latex paint. Paint store does too but they want much more than a dollar for them.

I totally agree that the installers of the new carpet are going to ding the painted trim. I would install new carpet before doing the baseboards. Or at least plan on some touch up.

Last edited by user1007; 04-24-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:07 PM   #10
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


sdsester, thanks.

The 50% off paint is latex. I planned to get the turpentine for when I do the baseboard. I thought trim should be oil based paint??? The carpet is ugly and will be replaced so I don't have to worry about dripping paint. I'd rather paint first and not worry about the floor then later I don't mind doing a touch up if the carpet guys ding it.

(You will need some TSP or similar cleaner for the walls and dollar store car wash sponges come in handy. Damp smaller ones might be a better choice than tack cloths for sanded trim.)

What is TSP and why would I clean the walls? They look clean. OK, I'll just use damp sponges to clean grit after I sand.

I've seen samples online saying you get a more true paint color if you prime first and use 2 coats of paint. That's a lot of painting! I was just going to do 2 coats of paint.

Is there an advantage to doing the trim first or the walls?
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:26 PM   #11
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


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sdsester, thanks.

The 50% off paint is latex. I planned to get the turpentine for when I do the baseboard. I thought trim should be oil based paint??? The carpet is ugly and will be replaced so I don't have to worry about dripping paint. I'd rather paint first and not worry about the floor then later I don't mind doing a touch up if the carpet guys ding it.

(You will need some TSP or similar cleaner for the walls and dollar store car wash sponges come in handy. Damp smaller ones might be a better choice than tack cloths for sanded trim.)

What is TSP and why would I clean the walls? They look clean. OK, I'll just use damp sponges to clean grit after I sand.

I've seen samples online saying you get a more true paint color if you prime first and use 2 coats of paint. That's a lot of painting! I was just going to do 2 coats of paint.

Is there an advantage to doing the trim first or the walls?
This day and age, you may have trouble being able to buy oil based trim paint and quality semi-gloss latex products will be fine. I used to love working with oil finishes but toward the end seldom did.

90 percent of a nice paint job is in the prep. Washing down the walls just gets rid of any oily films and dirt you might not notice. It will not take that long. Things like TSP rinse well and leave no residue.

Primers adhere to the surface you have prepped and provide an even surface to which paint can stick really well, usually better than if the paint were applied itself to the surface. Two coats of paint will perhaps give better color but the main reason for two is that you end up with a more colorfast and washable film than with just one coat. With dark colors or dramatic light to dark or light to dark changes you need at least two coats of finish and probably over a tinted primer to be safe.

I usually liked doing trim first because it is easier to cut in the wall paint to the trim than trying to cut the edge of the trim into the wall. I painted most often without using tape.

If using tape, I would suggest painting the walls first. Same logic. It is easier to tape off the wall edge than the edge of the trim. On the baseboard you may just have like a 1/4"?

With a good angled sash brush you may find that, like most or at least many painters, tape slows you down. With practice you can almost pinstripe with the edge of a nice sash brush.

Last edited by user1007; 04-24-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:08 PM   #12
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Since I'm painting 2 bedrooms and living room I'll start with the bedrooms first, for practice.

thanks
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:41 PM   #13
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bought Woosters 3" angled brush and a regular brush. Forgot the suggestion was 2.5 inch. Maybe I'll return these.

Also I was amazed that there are SO MANY rollers. Too many choices so I didn't get any!

What do I look for in rollers?

ALSO, what grit of sandpaper to rough up the baseboards (which are varnished now) in preparation for painting?

thanks
P.S.
just read to buy a wool blend roller sleeve, but to pick the lint out of it first.

Now I'm reading about "rolling techniques".

P.S.S.
I also just bought a flat thing, with little wheels, for edging around door frames. Will this work better than a sash brush?

Last edited by Startingover; 04-28-2012 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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carpet interfers with painting baseboards


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bought Woosters 3" angled brush and a regular brush. Forgot the suggestion was 2.5 inch. Maybe I'll return these.

3" is good- I do prefer the 2.5 though. Which wooster?- I like either the Alpha or silver tip.

Also I was amazed that there are SO MANY rollers. Too many choices so I didn't get any!

What do I look for in rollers?

Kind of depends on paint. But the workhorse for me is a 1/2 wooster Super Fab.

ALSO, what grit of sandpaper to rough up the baseboards (which are varnished now) in preparation for painting?

100 or 120 - you want to dull the varnish- not leave deep scratches.
thanks
P.S.
just read to buy a wool blend roller sleeve, but to pick the lint out of it first.
Do you have flat or textured walls?

Now I'm reading about "rolling techniques".
Use an extension pole! An extendable one that goes from 2-4' is good if not in too confined space.

P.S.S.
I also just bought a flat thing, with little wheels, for edging around door frames. Will this work better than a sash brush?
No- Tough love- a good brush technique is much better- go to you tube and search for rolling and brushing.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #15
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I have flat walls.

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