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-   -   Can you paint masonite siding?? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/can-you-paint-masonite-siding-7208/)

opee 03-18-2007 06:36 PM

Can you paint masonite siding??
 
Some of our masonite siding is chipping off and we would like to paint it, but someone had told me you can't paint masonite siding. Is this true, and if it is not true, are there any special steps to painting it?

Thanks!

AtlanticWBConst. 03-18-2007 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opee (Post 37458)
Some of our masonite siding is chipping off and we would like to paint it, but someone had told me you can't paint masonite siding. Is this true, and if it is not true, are there any special steps to painting it?

Thanks!

First off, you can paint masonite siding. The issues revolve around masonite siding that has been up for a while and has started 'chaulking'.

Here is a link with a description of steps to take. Go to the 3rd response down:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load...0066922.html?7

joewho 03-19-2007 10:17 PM

!!!!!!!YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS!!!!!!!!!!!

Where ever the surface paint is gone or repairs to be made, DO NOT USE WATER. Don't wash the house first. You need to use an oil or shellac based, quick dry coating before you do anything else.

This is where the lawsuits are coming from:
The subsurface acts like cardboard or bare drywall. You can't scrape it, sand it and certainly don't put water on it. It will absorb the water, swell and buckle. If you try to prime with water base, it will bubble, you'll try to repair the bubble and that, in turn, will cause more damage. All the bare spots need to be sealed up with shellac or zinsser shields. I would use shellac on an exterior.
Just the bare spots. Chaulky siding that is not damaged is fine. Treat it as any other painted surface. After the repairs or bare spots have been sealed, then you can wash, patch, prime, etc. This means, all "end grains" where you're likely to caulk, seal that area too.

The top coat of paint can be water based and all the primer can be water based, AFTER all bare spots are COMPLETELY sealed. You are wise to stay away from a powerwasher on this, but you could use a hose, after it's sealed and caulked.
Hope this info is usefull.

PS. Chaulking is not a huge problem. I've cleaned many homes and have yet to see one that has been 100% de-chaulked. Controversial statement, but it's true. Get a cleaning product made to clean chaulky surfaces, an aluminum siding cleaner will work. Follow the directions and you'll be good to go.

Don't know if I ever mentioned it, I'm a journeyman, pro painter, over 20 yrs. experience.

AtlanticWBConst. 03-19-2007 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joewho (Post 37609)
....Hope this info is usefull.
Don't know if I ever mentioned it, I'm a journeyman, pro painter, over 20 yrs. experience.

...If this is who you are, then I trust this more than anything I read anywhere...because it's about experience....:thumbsup:

joewho 03-19-2007 10:52 PM

Members of the painting contractors forum put all our experience AND knowledge together. This helps me come up with answers for the diychatroom.

I learned from old timers and use experience as a basis, but the paint and stain industry changes all the time and plain experience isn't enough any more.

Thanks for the compliment.

Melomane24 05-19-2014 04:29 PM

I know that the thread is quite old, but I need an info. I have Masonite sidings that need to be repainted. The repainting job has been made some 8 years by me and my sons, but since then but bubbles have appeared. The sidings are ok, the problem is just the painting.

Joewho (do not know if he is still around) recommends to seal with shellac or zinsser shields the bare spots.

Which zinsser shields would be appropriate ? I thought for a time to BIN (shellac based) but the notice says for interior only. Or just use plain shellac, then water based primer ?


Jerry

chrisn 05-19-2014 05:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
shields is a wall covering primer, not for anything exterior, you want BIN

joecaption 05-19-2014 06:43 PM

Blistering means there's moisture already trying to escape inside the siding.
There was class action law suites long ago and any recourse is long passed against Masonite.
Masonite is nothing more then ground up cardboard, adding a sealer over the surface and it's just going to stop the trapped moisture from escaping.
Use Zinsser 123 and latex paint.
Best way is to get rid of the Masonite totally.

jeffnc 05-19-2014 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joewho (Post 37616)
Members of the painting contractors forum put all our experience AND knowledge together. This helps me come up with answers for the diychatroom.

I learned from old timers and use experience as a basis, but the paint and stain industry changes all the time and plain experience isn't enough any more.

Well said, sir.

jeffnc 05-19-2014 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1352762)
shields is a wall covering primer, not for anything exterior, you want BIN

Based on what the tech sheet says for BIN, it doesn't seem like it's approved for this sort of exterior use. All it says about exterior use is "Use BIN Shellac Base Primer to spot prime persistant bleed from knots and sap streaks before full surface priming with a water based or oil based primer."

I don't recall ever using BIN outside so I can't say I've seen it fail, just that it sounds like it's intended over natural wood only when it's going to be primed with another exterior primer before painting.

Jmayspaint 05-19-2014 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffnc

Based on what the tech sheet says for BIN, it doesn't seem like it's approved for this sort of exterior use. All it says about exterior use is "Use BIN Shellac Base Primer to spot prime persistant bleed from knots and sap streaks before full surface priming with a water based or oil based primer."

I don't recall ever using BIN outside so I can't say I've seen it fail, just that it sounds like it's intended over natural wood only when it's going to be primed with another exterior primer before painting.


Bin can certainly fail when used for a full prime on ext. I think partially because its not permeable.
The can says interior / spot exterior. I think the idea is just not to use it as a continuous film so vapors can make there way around, and the most common use for it outside is stopping tannin bleed from knots.


Hey, it's gotta be better than wallpaper prep coat;)


I believe I would use a water base primer like 123.

ToolSeeker 05-19-2014 10:46 PM

If at all possible replace the siding. It is just my opinion but this siding, from your description, has already started to fail. If this is true any thing you do to paint it would be a waste of time and money. Also to replace the Masonite would really improve the value of your home. As much as I don't like vinyl siding it would be a great improvement over the masonite especially if the paint is blistering and peeling. Again just my opinion.

chrisn 05-20-2014 03:41 AM

[QUOTE=Jmayspaint;1352839]Bin can certainly fail when used for a full prime on ext. I think partially because its not permeable.
The can says interior / spot exterior. I think the idea is just not to use it as a continuous film so vapors can make there way around, and the most common use for it outside is stopping tannin bleed from knots.


Hey, it's gotta be better than wallpaper prep coat;):thumbsup:


I believe I would use a water base primer like 123.[/QUOTE]


I would also, but the Bin idea was just for spot priming as the label says. I think the BEST idea is to replace it with something right.

jeffnc 05-20-2014 07:26 AM

Well for Masonite, joewho says not to use a water based primer for spot priming bad areas because it just soaks it up and swells, etc. That makes a lot of sense to me, and the idea of spot priming first with BIN makes a lot of sense too. Just trying to figure out what Zinsser warrants it for.

Anyway, yeah - by far the best thing to do is replace the individual bad boards with HardiPlank. Hardie has specific replacements for all the Masonite profiles for this very reason. So you don't have to replace everything at once if you don't want to. The HardiPlank replacements will match the old. There are lots of siding repair guys who do this for less than an arm and a leg.

But as a super cheap option, just checking to see if the BIN idea would work well.

Will22 05-20-2014 08:57 AM

Masonite should be primed with an exterior grade primer ONLY- not Bin, Kilz, etc. Check the masonite for damage- the plies are adhered together with lignin, wax, and sawdust, and they come apart with age. Any acrylic top coat may be used as a finish coat.


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