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Old 11-30-2011, 12:26 PM   #16
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


I personally would not give up on the stain yet. Put on a few more coats, let it sit. The lighter areas may darken enough to a point that is closer to what you were looking for.

If I was going to cover it with paint I would wait close to a week before I even thought about priming it. You want it dry as it's going to get before you cover it.

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Old 11-30-2011, 04:11 PM   #17
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thanks Mazey, I actually took the runner off the stairs because it was hard to keep clean and the wood treads looked so beat up. I might have to consider adding it back if the paint doesnt hold up. either that or down the road maybe pay to have nice oak treads put in. For now I want to see what I can do with paint since stain wont work.
jsheriden- That is what I was thinking, I have oil based zinsser cover stain from a previous project, then a porch and floor paint (was thinking behr but if theres something better I'm for it) and then two coats of water based poly. Everyone seems to be saying different things.
so confused!

just about ANYTHING would be a step up
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:41 PM   #18
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


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This isn't so much DIY- but I do make my own tinted varnish often- either by adding regular tint or a bit of stain into it (oils).
Since you used such a dark stain to begin with, I think the hardest thing will be reducing that back. But because you preconditioned- that will help .
I suggest you work on one stair- see how far back you can take it, and then post a couple of pics.
That is if you don't go the paint route. I stand corrected ( again! dang!) about using the floor paint. I often paint the risers and skirts and have the steps themselves be a varnished finish. (Another thing to consider).
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Just teasin. We all have our moment in the chair. Honestly, I sensed that was an oversight on your part, that's why I put the lol behind the "memo" line. I learned a long time ago that gloating creates negative karma.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:46 PM   #19
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


I had a conversation today in HD with the Behr rep. I asked how they fortified their floor enamel, they're epoxy fortified, no urethane. For what that's worth. Ric may know better, but I think urethane would be superior to epoxy. I worded that with Brushjockey's shadow in mind, lol.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:47 AM   #20
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I had a conversation today in HD with the Behr rep. I asked how they fortified their floor enamel, they're epoxy fortified, no urethane. For what that's worth. Ric may know better, but I think urethane would be superior to epoxy. I worded that with Brushjockey's shadow in mind, lol.
The prof's lecture is being written
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:45 AM   #21
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how DO you get stain off if I should decide to start over from scratch? belt sander? stripper?
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:31 AM   #22
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


I think Ric mentioned in his first reply- Use a rag with mineral spirits- might follow up with a scrubbie once it softens up. This will not take it totally off, but might lighten it enough that you can seal and then overcoat with a tinted varnish to even it out.
This is not DIY 101, but we all learned by doing stuff like this.
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:49 PM   #23
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I tried to attach pics. The main problem is the contrast between grain and no grain areas. Not sure if tinted varnish will help. I also found out that you can't buy oil paint in CT so I'd have to get the latex epoxy reinforced floor paint. (sigh) what a mess.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:07 PM   #24
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


Lido, what is wrong with those steps? I think they look great. That's fabulous grain and a great accent of it. It almost looks to me like the stair maker laid them out purposely. Me, I would poly over them and enjoy them, but that's me.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:20 PM   #25
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I agree with Joe- that is how that wood looks. And it looks fine.
I think if you put a satin sheen- not a gloss- it will mellow it a bit. If you want to add just a little of your stain in the finish, ( not so much that you are graining with the brush) it will soften the look a bit also. But if the color overall is acceptable to you, I'd go with it.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:26 PM   #26
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The contrast is too much, they are too rustic looking for me. I wanted a more contemporary look. The pictures don't look as bad as they do in person either, there's a lot of splotches and stains that showed up that I expected the dark color to hide. Thanks for all the advice, i wish I liked them as much as you guys do .
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:57 PM   #27
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When we did we start recommending standard trim enamel on a surface to be walked on? Did I miss a memo? lol I suggest a porch and floor enamel.
This. And even the floor enamel in OIL will eventually chip. If it were me I would opt for a 2 part epoxy and NOT the water based version. Now you have to wory about traction. Have you considered carpet?
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:18 PM   #28
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can I latex paint over fresh oil stain


More coats! Let it sit! Seriously, that will reduce the contrast because the darker areas will not get much darker while the lighter parts will. At the very least try a few more coats on one step to see if it improves it more to your liking.

And the poly on top of it will darken it and decrease the contrast a bit as well. Tinting the poly will help further in that respect.

As for removing it, you'd need to sand it out. Stain penetrates the wood. You need to remove the stained wood, essentially.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:37 PM   #29
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This. And even the floor enamel in OIL will eventually chip. If it were me I would opt for a 2 part epoxy and NOT the water based version. Now you have to wory about traction. Have you considered carpet?
Matt, BM latex floor enamel is expoy fortified, I doubt if it would chip with a good bonding primer under it.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:57 PM   #30
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If you don't mind it being overall darker- I think tinted varnish is your best bet for getting a subtler contrast.

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