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Old 03-06-2008, 10:21 AM   #16
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


just get yourself a product called "floetrol" It's a paint conditioner, Pour a bit in your paint before you start your job It's designed to work with the paint and not break down the pigment like water would do.
It allows you to work the paint longer, keeps the paint from setting up so fast and makes the paint almost self leveling so you don't have the ropey effect that your describing

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A drop cloth isen't to catch paint, It's to protect what is under so wipe the drips as you go and don't track.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:50 PM   #17
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


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Originally Posted by Torquerolljoe View Post
I just searched this forum and found out that Behr paints are horrible. A little too late to return it. So, my problem is that my wife and I are trying to repaint the kitchen cabinets in our house. We bought Behr, but no matter how much prep we did, brush marks were horrible!!! The old cabinets were painted with latex, so we thought we would be ok. My question now is, what paint do I purchase to get reduced or no brush marks?? I prefer latex paints as they are easier to clean and does not bother my wife. Also, what primer do you recommend? We have sanded the cabinets and in some spots there is bare wood. I have a Wagner power painter I can use if it will help me get good results, fyi.

Thanks in advance, Joseph
Joseph,

I usually catch my customers buying the cheaper brushes. Sometimes it is hard to convince them to buy the purdy or performance select gold brushes cause of the price. I take the time to explain the difference of the brushes. my customers alway leave with purdy or performance gold brushes. Using your Wagner painter make sure to use Floetrol with the primer and paint. Advantage to using floetrol product is, Less pressure in the pump, and more uniform pattern of application of product(s). Primer I still recommend Behr #75 primer. # 75 primer has a higher amount of solids than other primers for a better hide. paint I recommend 3050 (Semi gloss) in the "swiss coffee" formula.

Also it would be nice to know if you used HI Gloss, Semi Gloss, Sateen lusture/ kitchen &bath, or satin? Which color did you use too please?

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Old 03-10-2008, 04:37 PM   #18
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


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Originally Posted by ron schenker View Post
A quality brush is a must. Purdy or Wooster works for me.
I like Purdy and Wooster brushes allot. I have several of each. I buy the pro quality, however. The main thing is to clean them thoroughly after each time you paint.

Also, we always use "Floetrol" in our latex paint to make it flow better. We get paint sprayer quality with a brush. NO brush marks! This may be an amateur way to do it, but it works. I always say that the outcome is most important.

Last edited by Handyman50; 03-10-2008 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:54 PM   #19
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


Slickshift,
are you saying you can prime with an SW oil primer and then finish with the SW Pro Classic waterborne interior acrylic semi gloss? I bought pre hung doors that are primered probably with latex. Do you still recommend primimg them with oil first or just paint over the primer the manufacturer sprayed on them? I also had the problem of the paint setting up to fast with the Pro classic with Floetrol added. I didn't just let it go and fix it the 2nd coat. Thanks for the tip. I used a small 4" wide mini roller to paint 90% of the door.I like the finished look it presents.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:40 PM   #20
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


If the door panels are flat, use a brush on the surrounding trim and a mini roller on the flats. With pro classic, the mohair mini will give you as smooth a finish as you'll get without spraying.

A couple of tips for the diy'er. Get the floetrol, it helps extend working time, but not a whole lot.
Use underbody or shellac based primer. This will lock out the paint causing it to "sit" on top of the primer and take longer to dry. This and floetrol will get you in the ballpark you need to be in for a nice finish.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:44 PM   #21
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


Joewho,
I followed the Floetrol directions and put 8 ounces into the gallon of Pro Classic. Are you saying I need to primer over the primer that comes with the door when I purchased it? If so when you say underbody and shellac primer could you expand on more what they are and how they work so well. Thanks
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:22 PM   #22
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


An enamel underbody is just that, a primer that sets up perfectly for enamel
I couldn't tell you th science behind it, but it is a higher build primer, making the topcoats smoother, and is better at sealing to keep a level surface as the enamel dries for a smoother look

As the factory primers usually aren't particularly good, I'd suggest priming anyway
But for the best possible enamel finish, or every possible advantage you can get, yes...prime the factory primer with an underbody
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:33 PM   #23
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


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Originally Posted by Pawl View Post
Joewho,
I followed the Floetrol directions and put 8 ounces into the gallon of Pro Classic. Are you saying I need to primer over the primer that comes with the door when I purchased it? If so when you say underbody and shellac primer could you expand on more what they are and how they work so well. Thanks
I'm not saying you "need" to. If the floetrol is working, great.

Shellac doesn't breath, it seals out the ability of the primer to absorb water from the paint. I've always considered underbody to do the same thing, but I'd have to do research to know if it completely seals. But the principle is the same. Zinsser Bin is shellac, I think. If it thins with denatured alcohol it's shellac. There are waterbased underbodys, check with SW or BM. If you decide to use WB underbody, get a good one.

Pre-primed will absorb some of the h20 from the paint, making it dry faster. And it gets "sticky" quicker, we call this "drag" when the brush doesn't move smoothly. Floetrol helps with this a lot.

This was just a tip to give you a longer working time and drying time. Slower drying means the paint can flow out and make brush/roller marks disappear.

There are several other ways to do this, this advice is geared towards diy, but with pro results.
Hope this is useful.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:14 PM   #24
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


We just completed painting our 1956-constructed oak kitchen cabinets. Our goals were:
1) make them contemporary looking.
2) using them to lighten up the room, not darken it.

1st goal meant:
-- getting rid of the oak grain and dark shellac on them.
-- giving them as smooth of a paint finish as we could.
-- changing out the old, exposed hinges for hidden, euro ones
-- changing out the old 3" holes for metric-sized ones of the new pull handles.

Someone here recommended and we "test painted" several scrap doors and frames with SW, BM, Kelly-Moore (a local brand), and other paints we 'd been recommended to try. It worked well for us so, I'd recommended that you test paint so you can see and decide for yourself:
(a) how you want to paint the cabinets,
(b) which products you will want to use, and
(c) practice your technique.
And even, (d) getting to know you local paint shops, and their personality (including helpfulness or not).

For our oak cabinets, when we test-painted, we were hoping to get by with but found we were NOT happy with merely 2 coats since the grain was still "there" and we wanted a more modern, if not even slick, look. Our tests also led us to using:
-- Zinnser's BIN -- especially for trouble spots (where ancient, deep grease seemed to ooze despite multiple cleanings including with mineral oil and TSP),
-- waterborne paste filler to fill the deep oak grains (another recommendation we got from someone here), and
-- an oil-based undercoat designed to work with our topcoat.

Finally, we opted for, based on out test paint results, sponge rollers for the top coats and not using Floetrol. We simply did not find it worth the extra work as we got to know the paints themselves.

Results will vary, and getting it right for you will be something you learn/decide through practice so don't be afraid to do so.

hope this helps.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:04 PM   #25
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


Maybe I overlooked an answer on "How to paint without leaving brush strokes". I'm painting a handrail at the top of stairs and do not want to have brush marks in between balusters or on the fir top plate. Any suggestions. I have seen at church, the columns in the auditorium without any brush marks on them. What is the big secret?

Last edited by GurnetPoint; 06-12-2011 at 07:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:24 PM   #26
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Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by GurnetPoint View Post
Maybe I overlooked an answer on "How to paint without leaving brush strokes". I'm painting a handrail at the top of stairs and do not want to have brush marks in between balusters or on the fir top plate. Any suggestions. I have seen at church, the columns in the auditorium without any brush marks on them. What is the big secret?
You might want to do this as a post about brush strokes and separate it from Behr paint.

Oil based finishes used to be preferred because they left fewer brush strokes. Most of this had to do with the drying time of the paint and its leveling properties.

You can achieve nice, mirror like, surfaces with quality latex paint too but as mentioned a conditioner that improves the leveling properties and slows the drying time a bit will be helpful.

Of course with whatever approach or paint you use? A good quality trim brush is mandatory.

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