DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Painting (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/)
-   -   Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/brush-marks-behr-paints-kitchen-cabinets-help-13082/)

Torquerolljoe 11-05-2007 02:54 PM

Brush marks with Behr paints for Kitchen Cabinets...HELP!!!
 
I just searched this forum and found out that Behr paints are horrible. A little too late to return it. So, my problem is that my wife and I are trying to repaint the kitchen cabinets in our house. We bought Behr, but no matter how much prep we did, brush marks were horrible!!! The old cabinets were painted with latex, so we thought we would be ok. My question now is, what paint do I purchase to get reduced or no brush marks?? I prefer latex paints as they are easier to clean and does not bother my wife. Also, what primer do you recommend? We have sanded the cabinets and in some spots there is bare wood. I have a Wagner power painter I can use if it will help me get good results, fyi.

Thanks in advance, Joseph

Concordseeker 11-05-2007 03:46 PM

I'm guessing you have two gallons at most. Eat the $30 go to a paint store and get good paint. I used Benjamin Moore primer and gloss paint (Impervex latex enamel) on my kitchen cabinets and it is SO worth the difference. I was amazed by the difference.

ron schenker 11-05-2007 04:23 PM

A quality brush is a must. Purdy or Wooster works for me.

Torquerolljoe 11-05-2007 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ron schenker (Post 71811)
A quality brush is a must. Purdy or Wooster works for me.

We definitely used a Purdy brush. Thanks

Torquerolljoe 11-05-2007 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Concordseeker (Post 71804)
I'm guessing you have two gallons at most. Eat the $30 go to a paint store and get good paint. I used Benjamin Moore primer and gloss paint (Impervex latex enamel) on my kitchen cabinets and it is SO worth the difference. I was amazed by the difference.


Did you brush it on or did you spray it on?? I don't have a problem "eating" the $30 for a better paint. I just want the cabinets to look great. Thanks.

slickshift 11-05-2007 09:13 PM

Sand to smooth out the Behr brush marks
Prime the bare wood with a quality oil-based primer from Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams

Use a Waterborne Enamel to paint
Either Ben Moore's Satin Impervo or Sherwin Williams' Pro Classic
Either one will go on smooth and show few brush marks, and last and protect well

sirwired 11-06-2007 11:04 AM

One hint with the acrylic waterbourne enamels that slickshift recommended. Try them out on some scrap first, as they don't go on quite like paint.

I have used ProClassic Waterbourne, and have a couple of hints if that is what you choose:

1) It holds a "wet edge" for about thirty seconds. One stroke to apply, one to back-brush, and then move on. If you overbrush it will look like junk.
2) Whatever you do, do NOT go back to fix up "thin spots". ProClassic looks like junk wet, but it will become more opaque and smoother as it dries. If you try and "touch up" once the enamel tacks up, it will look horrible. If it turns out you did miss a spot, or have a thin one, get it on the next coat.

Despite these quirks, the end result looks great.

SirWired

lee polowczuk 11-07-2007 07:29 AM

Sherwin Williams oil based Pro-Classic. Unbelievable stuff. Of course prep is the key. I put on oil based primer and lightly sanded in between. Sanded in between the coat of SW. I know I got a good brush..probably Purdy.

I really like Benjamin Moore, too...

Torquerolljoe 11-07-2007 07:57 PM

Thanks for all your help. I will try again this weekend after visiting either SW or Benjamin Moore.

Joseph

jimc 12-26-2007 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirwired (Post 71995)
One hint with the acrylic waterbourne enamels that slickshift recommended. Try them out on some scrap first, as they don't go on quite like paint.

I have used ProClassic Waterbourne, and have a couple of hints if that is what you choose:

1) It holds a "wet edge" for about thirty seconds. One stroke to apply, one to back-brush, and then move on. If you overbrush it will look like junk.
2) Whatever you do, do NOT go back to fix up "thin spots". ProClassic looks like junk wet, but it will become more opaque and smoother as it dries. If you try and "touch up" once the enamel tacks up, it will look horrible. If it turns out you did miss a spot, or have a thin one, get it on the next coat.

Despite these quirks, the end result looks great.

SirWired


I read with interest your information on using ProClassic Waterbourne and how it maintains a "wet edge" for only about 30 seconds. I have attempted to repaint our kitchen cabinet doors with BM K&B acrylic satin finish enamel and had all kinds of problems with it (probably the problems were with the painter, not the paint).

Say I have a flat surface 15" wide by 30" long. If I paint a straight strip with a 2-1/2" brush, I can manage to keep painting into a wet edge to the end. But when I go back to paint the second strip, that long edge is no longer wet. If I paint across the panel and then go back to the starting edge, the wet edges are gone. How to handle such a project? I have tried rolling with a 4" roller and a foam pad - ended up with a rough finish; tried with a fabric roller with low nap and again ended up with a rough surface. So I'm stymied for now.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Jim

chrisn 12-26-2007 05:57 PM

For any of the waterborne paints adding Floetrol will greatly add to the open time and extend the wet time

1655graff 12-27-2007 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirwired (Post 71995)
I have used ProClassic Waterbourne, and have a couple of hints if that is what you choose:

1) It holds a "wet edge" for about thirty seconds. One stroke to apply, one to back-brush, and then move on. If you overbrush it will look like junk....
SirWired

What is "back-brush"? How do you do it well? How should one not do it?

Thank you and Please forgive my ignorance.:thumbsup:

1655graff 12-27-2007 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lee polowczuk (Post 72196)
I put on oil based primer and lightly sanded in between. Sanded in between the coat...

And, here's my 3rd newbie question: What grit of sandpaper? and How do you ensure it is "lightly"? -- e.g., Do it by hand? ...with sanding sponge? ...with very light touch/pressure using an orbital sander? or a square one?

FYI: My 3 newbie questions are:
1) the same as jimc
2) my 1st post
3) this post

Again, TIA:thumbup:

sirwired 12-29-2007 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1655graff (Post 83239)
What is "back-brush"? How do you do it well? How should one not do it?

Thank you and Please forgive my ignorance.:thumbsup:

Back-brush, meaning, apply the paint with one stroke, go back over with another stroke, and then move on. If you keep brushing the same spot over and over, you will end up with brush marks dug into your paint. Instead, of brushing over and over, you need to rely on the great leveling properties of the paint.

SirWired

tubguy 12-30-2007 10:39 AM

Make sure that you are loading the paint brush with enough paint. One problem that I have seen is after you dip the good quality brush in the paint then you take the brush and wipe both sides of the brush against the can thus removing all but a little of the paint. Dip the brush into the can and then apply the paint to your surface. adjust how much paint on the brush by how deep you stick the brush into the paint.
Hope this helps

Mike


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:43 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved