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|06-10-2010, 02:11 PM||#1|
Join Date: Sep 2009
BM Impervo Waterbase: Sand Between Coats?
I’ve been plugging away at lots of projects here and things have gone well.
Recently I’ve been working as a stripper recently ; ). Hard tedious work.
I have a question regarding a applying a second top coat of BM Impervo Waterbase. Please read through to the end to get to the question.
I’ve taken on some epic paint projects in the past months including restoring a pair of 80-year-old interior French Doors (10 panes per door) salvaged from a rental apartment that likely had 80 coats of paint slathered on every surface including the glass. Oh boy, these were cruddy all right. The mullions and glaze bar molding had NO detail visible through the thick crusty paint…no flutings or edge contour whatsoever. The stripping took FOREVER with Peel Away #1 and Kleen Strip. Forever. And ever. Then the sanding, the sanding, the sanding…each little flute and ridge and ripple, to maintain the crisp edges. Also someone had hacked some wood off the door’s bottoms and side, so I had to add wood to it. I took it all down to raw wood about 200 +/-, then primed with Ben Moore Alkyd Enamel Underbody Primer #217, and sanded that to get a smooth base. Top coated with a single coat of Ben Moore Satin Impervo Waterbase (+ Floetrol) with a synthetic Purdy Brush. I also stripped the doorframe and it got the exact same treatment.
A parallel project is another refinishing job. I have a large bookshelf ensemble comprised of a pair 8’ x 3’ x 1’ bookshelves accompanied by a 12’ x1’ x 1’ bookshelf ‘lintel’. The bookshelf pair goes on bookends either side of a double door (now with a French door pair!). The ‘bookshelf ‘lintel’ spans across the width of the doors and seats on top of the bookshelves at the ceiling, when installed together imagine a wide inverted “U”. A total of 54” linear feet of book shelving. There’s also a lockable plexi-glass drop down door (edged in aluminum Aluminum ‘U’ channel for stiffness) on one of the shelves on each side. This was my first major wood project 20 years ago and I built it out of common pine (little did I know). It was only ever primed (forgot what brand of primer) and there it sat for 20 years. In that time, the knots bleed through the white (now yellowed) primer and there were lots of primer brush strokes visible. In order to refinish it, I cleaned the beast, sanded the brush strokes out as best with what patience I had using the ROS, hit the knots with blond shellac, re-primed with Ben Moore Alkyd Enamel Underbody Prime #217 (love this stuff!) and sanded the latter pretty smooth. Like the French Doors, it got a single coat of Ben Moore Satin Impervo Waterbase (+ Floetrol) with a synthetic Purdy Brush.
Now, I want to put a second coat of Impervo on both of these projects. Mostly for ‘wear and tear’ prevention: doors getting worked and books sliding on and off shelves for the next couple decades.
I’ve read it is unwise to scuff sand between coats of waterbase Impervo, as it is too soft.
Anyone have experience with this? The topcoat looks much as I expected and pretty good. The scuff sanding would be done only to knock off the most minor dust nubs and such.
Is it best to not bother with the scuff sanding?
One more thing.
Regarding Impervo application brush strokes I’ve had mixed success on various projects here (BTW I’m a painter/artist). I have glass smooth doors that have leveled perfectly and others that have shown more pronounced brush strokes. The brush/Floetrol/Water/Temp/Time correlation is almost a mystical thing. The aforementioned projects have a little bit of brush stroke, but not offensive. I’m wondering if I go with a second Impervo top coat, if it will only make the brush strokes more pronounced and/or create a sort of ‘cross hatch’: two different layers of brush strokes superimposed (the second coat’s strokes will certainly take a different path as they travel across the surface) and only serve to draw attention to the brush strokes and make the surface look sloppy.
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