Good afternoon, all. I'm preparing to renovate our bathrooms, both of which are now wallpapered. Once I remove the wallpaper, what wall preparation should be done before actually applying the paint?
Also I was considering using Behr's Faux Bellagio application. A friend has done that particular wall treatment and it looks pretty impressive.:)
The next steps would depend on the condition of what's left of/on the wall, and/or what came off the wall
If all went well, removal of any remaining adhesive would be the next step
(your local paint shop will have the proper cleaner)
Ideally, a good sanding and wiping of sanding dust and a good premium primer should set you up nicely for the rest of your project
If you run into some snags in the removal process, then the steps would depend on what exactly your project needs
For example: If during removal you tear up some drywall spots, the exposed drywall paper should be primed, smoothed over or filled in with joint compound, sanded smooth, then primed again before any paint is applied
But things like that depend on what you are left with after removed
make sure you get ALL the paper off.
do not leave any paper on there
any paper that is painted over will bubble, then you are just kicking your own butt
get all that crud off there
then spackle the areas that need attention
spackle again if necessary
you want a baby smooth surface with no bumps or divets
i'd use two coats primer
then your paint
I'd recommend a sherwin williams glaze over behr
youd be amazed how well spent an extra 20 bucks or so is on a quality product
i wouldn't paint a lemonade stand sign with behr paint
apply joint compound and sand.
Faux Paint Peeling For Real
:( I followed suggestions in this thread, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted.
I used Zinsser 1-2-3 primer and Lowe's American Tradition satin semi-gloss for the base coat and Valspar ssg mixed 1:1 with a glaze for the faux.
Yesterday, I had some other work done and the workers taped on some of the painted finish. I expected I would have to do some touch up, HOWEVER, I did not expect the paint treatment to peel off i sheets down to the Zinsser!
What did I do wrong and what can I do now to fix it?
Faux Paint Peeling #2
I forgot to add that I was able to get all the old wallpaper off and then sanded the surface to remove the glue before I ever primed.
There was no damage done to the sheetrock.
The glaze is water based right?...just making sure.
Just to be clear
The finish you did has been there a month
Some workers used tape on it this week
When the tape was pulled up, huge sections of what you had done came up with the tape
Although the AmTrad isn't that much better than the Behr, and that could be the problem, I'd like to know how long it had to cure, and exactly what type of tape the workers used, and how long it was on there
The label said it was for use with latex-based paint. So I assumed it was ok.
ps where in Texas are you?
Slick your post didn't come thru til after I answered Rick.
Yes it has been about a month. When the workers pulled the tape off, the finish came up in a few places. I didn't think it was a big deal until I realized that both the base coat and glaze coat came up, leaving the Zinsser bare.
Rick and Slick [ hey I made a rhyme LOL] it's no big deal to redo the paint job, it's a tiny bath with a probably less than 100 sq feet to be redon. I just want to do it right, I thought I had done all my prep work right the 1st time.
Also, the tape looked like masking tape and was on only overnight.
When they were removing it, it did not look like they had applied it with tons of pressure.
They were refinishing my bath and countertop and were protecting everything from overspray.
ps we are over the moon at how the bathtub and counter came out.
Well, it had plenty of time to cure, that's not it
They could have used a better, more paint friendly tape
They really should've used blue or green painter's tape
But there's no way to tell if that was the problem from here
It may have been the AmTrad just didn't stick (the Zinsser did)
Maybe the masking tape rather than painter's tape, didn't help
But after a month of cure, it shouldn't have pulled up anyway
If you are going to do it over, I'd suggest going to a Ben Moore dealer, or Sherwin Williams store, whichever seems friendliest(or is closest), and tell/show them what you want to do, and use the products they recommend
They can match any colors you need, that won't be a problem
Just bring in any chips, cans, samples, or whatnot
Be sure to scrape up any and all loose stuff before beginning (again)
If an overnight masking tape job pulled it up before, I suspect a little scraping will lift a bunch of it
PS Over the moon is good right?
shapeshifter, I'm near Dallas.
To Slick, yes over the moon is good. The budget just wouldn't handle a $10k re-do. We found a company in San Antonio that refinishes just about anything you can think of. The tub was an 80s model fiberglass tub and surround all in one. They used an oyster-white color and you need sunglasses because it is to bright and clean. The counter was 80s cultured marble with sink [not one of the hokey shell-shaped ones thankfully] and they gave it a brown granite finish. Truthfully, most anything except a faux finish would have been an improvement.
When I scrape the other stuff, how aggressive should I get? Should I hand sand or liquid sand? Should I scrape and re-prime? Sorry to ask so many questions.
I would get aggressive
You don't want any "kinda" loose stuff left on the wall
There should be no question whats left is sticking
I think after you start, you'll know how it will go
If the stuff starts flaking off left and right, you'll know it was bound to fail
If it's on there good and won't budge, then it was the workmen's tape that ruined it, and you'll only have to worry about the edges
Hand sand-no liquid
Depending on what you end up with, you'll probably have to prime to seal in what's left
It depends on your faux too
Ask where you get your faux materials to be sure
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