Aura Cure Time

mobiledynamics

In the pic below, I initially cut a hole to get access to a plumbing.
Later on this evening, I decided to *score* a reveal in the paint, so that when I place the paper over the seam and mud, the feather will be less...of a crown.

Riddle me this.
I don't believe this area had any mud ( no screw holes in this area I cut). So we're looking at rock, BM Fresh Start Superior Primer, 2 coats of Aura. All applied I think about 10 days ago..

The paint/top paper of the drywall lifter fairly easily. Whaddya say. Aura still not fully cured. Fresh Start/Aura combo needs time to cure. I'm sort surprise it came off so easily after scoring and using my knife to get me a edge to lift.

chrisn

30 day cure time

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jsheridan

Mobile, I don't see any issues with what you're concerned about. I just had to cut a sqaure, about 2 sqaure inches, out of a wall to take to get paint match. I scored it and removed the top layer of drywall, peeled right off. Paint is yearrrss old. I spot primed the brown paper with cover stain spray and patched, gone.
You'll have prime that brown paper with oil or have problems with your patch. Gardz might work, don't know. The brown will absorb the moisture from the mud and cause blisters in your patch.

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mobiledynamics

Interesting read on spot priming the paper...
On patches, I also bevel the all sides for mud to bite.

Is the absorbancy of that paper less that *raw rock* like the area where I have beveled it ?


I was planning to just mud and then prime with either Fresh Start and or Bin (have both Red (oil) and Blue (water) in my stash).

Brushjockey

If the flaky brown paper is exposed, then the moisture in the mud will make it bubble. You need a vapor barrier to stop this, before you mud.
Oil, Gardz or shellac all will do this.

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"It's better to come here with questions before you screw up than to come here after and ask how to fix them."- JS

mobiledynamics

Got it . Learn something new everyday.

Is this because I'm putting paper over the seam -- aka, blister/bubble prevention.

Whereas in regular mudding of screw heads, or just let's say spot mudding a area nicked by a ladder or the like during construction, one just muds without priming.

Brushjockey

More a matter of degree. More exposed rock paper- better chances of a problem. Any good gash and i hit it with gardz ( I always carry a small container of it just for stuff like this).
Gardz was originally developed for just this problem- but there are so many other uses for it.
Stripping paper often causes lots of damage like this - Gardz is really spot on for it.

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"It's better to come here with questions before you screw up than to come here after and ask how to fix them."- JS

mobiledynamics

What's you technique on spot priming.
I usually take a brush, dip heavily - brush on area
Take brush and just wet a small roller and then backroll the area.
That's the only way I know how - to avoid brush marks ....

Sanding out brush marks post drying is nil to none.

Brushjockey

In this case you are spotting something that will be mudded over- so just get it wet without dripping.
But for a spot that shows ( or a touch up) try and use what was used before- if it is a rolled area- use a mini roller of similar nap length.

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"It's better to come here with questions before you screw up than to come here after and ask how to fix them."- JS

mobiledynamics

For all ya'll painters that do patches, what type of mud do you like.

I like hot mud for the obvious reasons - speed, speed, speed.
However, I prefer all purpose and paper seams. Paper cause it will telegraph a joint better.
I like all purpose as it *compresses* and pulls tighter as it drys, IMO.
On the latter, hot mud is nice and fast, but it blooms IMO.

So if time permits, I will AP the joint with paper and then hot mud the last 2 coats with topping on the final.
If I'm using Hot Mud, FibaFuse all the way

Curios what are you techniques......
I try to avoid feathing out the crown, or or utilize techniques to mitigate the size of the crown.

chrisn

It WILL work, that is just what it is for, now you DO know

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