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hyunelan2 06-12-2013 10:02 AM

New project - Battleship New Jersey display
 
Not really a project showcase thread - because I haven't started the project yet.

I have some new wall art in the works. Found some declassified blueprints of the battleship USS New Jersey, BB62. I'm going to build a frame for this and have some glass cut and make a nice wall presentation.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psfdf31354.jpg

Besides being a cool thing - it's HUGE (bananas for scale)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psb7a4bec3.jpg

I have the full plan set, but all 18 panels would be a bit ridiculous, so I choose 2 and put them above below, then printed (I have access to a roll plotter). The top is the ship's profile, the bottom is all the rooms in the ship overlaid on the profile. The New Jersey is the most decorated battleship in naval history. Fought in WWII, Korea, Vietnam, but retired as the Gulf War broke out, so it missed out on that one while 2 of her sister ships shot Tomahawks at Saddam.

I have the phone number of a glass place that will cut glass to size, so I need to call and see how much a 36"x70" piece of glass will be. Then I have to figure out how to get that piece of glass home without breaking it. I don't want to spend a TON on this project, so I'm thinking of some select-grade 2x2s for the frame. I'll put a fancy routed-edge on the part that overlaps the glass.

For something of this size, you can't get mat-board. So, that means I'll be making my own. I think I'm going to get a piece of 1/8" hardboard, and cut 2 "windows" in it for each one of these pictures. Then, pick out a nice roll of fabric from the fabric store and use some spray-adhesive to affix it to the front of the mat board, and trim out the fabric in the middle. I'll sandwich the print between that and another piece of 1/8" hardboard on the backside. So from the back going forward would be:

1/8" hardboard - print - 1/8" hardboard with cutouts - fabric - glass.

Thoughts?

kwikfishron 06-12-2013 10:09 AM

Sounds like fun. I'd probably go with 2x3 for the frame though but that's just me.

ddawg16 06-12-2013 10:16 AM

Those are pretty cool.....they are going to make for a good size wall covering.

I'm racking my brain trying to think of what the best looking type of frame would be......it needs a 'navy' look to it.

ddawg16 06-12-2013 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 1199859)
Sounds like fun. I'd probably go with 2x3 for the frame though but that's just me.

Those look like E-size drawings....big b.....s....if you cut them down you loose quite a bit....

hyunelan2 06-12-2013 10:25 AM

I think he was talking size of wood for the frame construction, not overall frame size.

Arch-E is 36x48, this is about 2' longer than that. I found some older plans (WWI era) that were over 8' long in original size - too long to hang in the area I want to put this.

Windows on Wash 06-12-2013 10:43 AM

Love it.

Can't wait to see updates.

ddawg16 06-12-2013 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hyunelan2 (Post 1199866)
I think he was talking size of wood for the frame construction, not overall frame size.

Arch-E is 36x48, this is about 2' longer than that. I found some older plans (WWI era) that were over 8' long in original size - too long to hang in the area I want to put this.

Crap...your right.....I have to stop multitasking.....

hyunelan2 06-12-2013 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1199862)
I'm racking my brain trying to think of what the best looking type of frame would be......it needs a 'navy' look to it.


Maybe inlay some sort of rope moulding into the frame? I could route out a gap to insert some 1/2" rope moulding.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...21dc4b_300.jpg

kwikfishron 06-13-2013 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hyunelan2 (Post 1199894)
Maybe inlay some sort of rope moulding into the frame? I could route out a gap to insert some 1/2" rope moulding.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...21dc4b_300.jpg

That would be a tedious inlay unless you're talking about routing out a slot and just dropping it in. If that's the case you may not be pleased with all of the little gaps. Leaving the rope proud of the frame a little bit would be a nice detail adding depth.

hyunelan2 06-13-2013 10:23 AM

That's a good point about gaps if I routed in a slot - hadn't considered that.

ddawg16 06-13-2013 10:29 AM

I like the rope idea....but why not use real rope? Make a frame out of rough cut cedar, say 1x2....nail rope, say 1/4" along the inside edge......or larger 1/2" around the outside.

kwikfishron 06-13-2013 10:38 AM

You could just get half rope and plant in on the face. They make flexible stuff too so you wouldn't have to do straight lines.

joed 06-13-2013 11:37 AM

ads overlaying post. Can't see it properly.

user1007 06-13-2013 03:36 PM

2 Attachment(s)
You are going to have to cross brace something 3xclose to 6' or it will warp. You might be better off with some metal trim molding?

For large gallery paper pieces I have often used tiny 1/16-1/8" super magnets and no molding. Drill/fit flathead screws flush with the wall surface around the perimeter intervals. Then use tiny super magnets to stretch and hold the paper flat to the wall by engaging the screw heads through the paper. See the large Prismacolor pencil drawing on the wall in this gallery? I used this method for it. Slightly curled edge along the bottom was not my idea but that of the artist. The rest is perfectly flat. You would not notice the magnet until you were right on top of them.

http://www.cinemagallery.cc/images/g...istory%202.jpg

You could then float a thin piece of plex or lexan over the top of the prints for protection. Use a drill for plastic and screw anchors in the wall. Use nylon or plastic spacers to elevate the plex from the paper surface. I guess you could then trim everything out with rope if you wanted but it might be a bit much. The point is with the art fixed to the wall with magnets, you could trim it in place and not have the weight of molding---just anchor it to the wall too.

Even if you use metal or wood frame molding, a thin piece of glass 70" long could be problematic and might crack (or fracture) easily when flexed. I would use plex, not glass, no matter how you present the piece. I think stepping up to thicker glass will just make it too heavy.

hyunelan2 06-13-2013 05:18 PM

If the paper were a thicker/better grade, that might be possible. As it is, it is thinner blueprint/plan style paper, and exposed on a wall, it wouldn't look very good. At the least, it needs to be matted with a piece of something over it. The build-on-wall option is something to consider though.

For information's sake, a piece of glass 36x70 in 3/16" thickness would be 42 pounds. Standard picture frame glass is 3/32". So, it would be heavy, but not impossibly so.

For cross bracing, I was toying with the following idea: Build the rectangle frame, lay in the glass, 1/8" mat board, picture, hardboard backer, then glue-up some dimensional wood across the back. This example is with two 1/2"x2-2-1/2" braces.

Like this: http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps3b321bbb.jpg

View of the front (matboard making 2 'windows' for the displays):
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psd1eaccab.jpg

View of the 1/8" backer - 1/8" mat - 3/16" glass sandwich that would be inside the frame:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps0a1a0e5b.jpg


EDIT: I did a final weight calculation. Using poplar 2x3s for the frame, the total weight of this whole thing will be right under 70 pounds. With something heavier like Oak, it would add about 5 pounds.


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