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Old 11-24-2013, 11:57 PM   #31
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Got me a new truck-------


I love those old boxy Fords! I used to have a '93 before I moved to Dodge. Looks like a 92-or-older...so non-turbo diesel (IDI - Indirect Injection) yes?

Here's a good starting point to read up on some stuff about these trucks:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...owner-faq.html


The glow plug/relay systems can have some frustrating issues. Look here for troubleshooting if you get into problems, with it being colder out.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/90...le-system.html

Battery cables if you get to that point:
http://custombatterycables.com/appli...s_1987-e99.htm

If you need batteries check out the Diehard Platinums from Sears. Another decent option is actually the Maxx (yellow) batteries from WalMart. No questions/no receipt 3 year free replacement warranty.

Good luck! Love those trucks.

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Old 11-24-2013, 11:59 PM   #32
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Another thing with those old IDI engines is cavitation issues with the blocks.

Read about it here:
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html

If you don't know what coolant you are running or if the man you bought it from doesn't know, I would do a flush and add the proper coolant WITH the required additive.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:55 AM   #33
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Thanks Dave---I will read all of those threads---

I'm in uncharted waters so this will help---the guy I bought this from is a heavy equipment operator and knows a lot about diesels---this old truck is in great shape--

I'd like to keep it that way,so all of these tip help.--Mike---
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:56 AM   #34
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Those old 7.3s are almost bulletproof. Once you start using it, you'll never go back to a gas engine. Most northern on-road pump fuel already has anti-gel added. 5000 miles between oil changes is a little short, but your call. I'd take an oil sample at the next change and send it to Blackstone. They'll tell you what shape the oil is in after 5000 and what wear metals they detect. According to the lab results, my old 6.0 could easily go 7500 between changes, but I always changed out at 6000. With the extra tanks, you probably want to read up on the water seperator and check it when you change oil.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:10 AM   #35
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Thanks, I thought that 3000 miles was rather early---I will do that test---
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:19 AM   #36
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Congrat's Mike, that truck will serve you well........

Lot's of good info here already, I'll try to offer a little more experience.

I'd suggest running a fuel treatment all year. Today's low-sulfur diesel can use some help in older engines like that one. This is a good, cheap anti-gel that's pretty easy to find just about anywhere:

http://www.howeslube.com/dieseltreat.php

DON'T USE the red 911 bottle unless the fuel is already gelled up. It's full of alcohol, which is extremely hard on diesel's. It's meant as a last resort.

ALWAYS replace the fuel filter every fall or early winter. Thy're cheap, and can cost you a ton of money if you don't keep them clean.

Always plug the coolant heater in for a few hours before you need it. You can test around on how long you need (most my trucks will start well after 1-2 hours on the plug) but 4 hours should be more than enough.

You'll probably want to either get a "cold front" that mounts on the grill, or find a way to block off between the grill and radiator for the winter. If not, it may not run near normal operating temps in winter and likely won't heat the cab well either.

If you plan on driving in snow, don't be afraid to carry a couple (2000 #'s won't hurt....) of sand bags for weight and traction if you do get stuck.........
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:38 PM   #37
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Thanks again---so far I'm enjoying it--I'm off to the insurance company---this just has to cost more to insure---

I'm going to get a timer for the heater outlet----I'll see the previous owner tomorrow and ask a few questions about coolant--filters and some of the other things you all have mentioned---

A lumber rack is high priority---
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:36 PM   #38
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Now all you need is a CB radio and trucker hat to go with that big rig and yer set.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:35 PM   #39
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And don't forget the shotgun in the back window.....
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:39 PM   #40
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I hear you don't want the diesel to run out of fuel, I hear it can be a real deal to get it fired back up.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:05 PM   #41
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He made it perfectly clear--DO NOT RUN OUT OF FUEL!

He changed all of the running lights to LED--and the brake lights---I've got the Christmas lights all set---I'll just park it in front of the house with the lights on---
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:39 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
He made it perfectly clear--DO NOT RUN OUT OF FUEL!
-
He was right. It isn't just a crank-for-a-few-seconds-and-it'll-fire thing. You can fry some very expensive parts if you're not careful.

I borrowed my brother-in-law's 86-ish Ford flatbed with a 4 speed (no overdrive!), and it would do 45mph (I assume, the speedo didn't work) and it sounded like it was going to blow sky high. But you could load the damn thing until it was squatting on the bump stops and the engine didn't know any different.
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #43
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So far so good----I used an old extension cord for the block heater--yesterday morning the plug was smoking----danged old cord----

Today I have a new plug on the heater and one of my good cords----

Lesson learned.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:55 PM   #44
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Mike, today I saw a truck like yours with the topper on it. I don't know where you can get one but I know it would be nice, it is tall enough you can stand up in it. I can't find one online right now but this one looks like it would be nice to keep your tools safe.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:16 PM   #45
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Knapheide makes them---bring a thick wallet---I'll be looking for one.

I did find that I have a lumber rack from a long forgotten truck--I have been using it as a ladder storage back in the way back yard---so that immediate need is taken care of.

I do need to cut some trees out of the way---I retired that truck rack a long time ago.

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