typical rental costs for hole saw

Red Squirrel · 09-19-2010, 09:37 PM

I need to punch a 4 inch hole in cinder block and brick. Debating on renting or just buying the bit for it. How much typically would it cost to rent the tool that can do this job? Is it somewhere like $30 or is it much higher? I can buy a bit for my drill for under $100 so if renting costs near that, then may as well buy it. Never rented a tool before.

nap · 09-19-2010, 11:03 PM

here is a site that has a 4 1/4" bit for $67 (sales price, not rental). The 4" is out of stock but costs $56.

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/Prod...5412&TYPE=GOOG

Do you need the hole to be pretty? If not, multiple holes by a small drill bit and a hammer will get you a hole, just not as pretty as the core bit.

this place charges $40/day for rental

http://www.a-zrental.com/equipment.a...ry&category=43

this place charges $15/day

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/Prod...5412&TYPE=GOOG

I would guess it is going to depend on what you have available close to you when dealing with rental. If buying, you have the world to choose from.

what are you using to power the thing? Any I have used have a large internally threaded boss that screws onto a threaded shaft on the drill.

Scuba_Dave · 09-19-2010, 11:22 PM

I used a friends compressor, air gun & chisel bit
I drilled the outline from both sides w/masonary bit 1st

PaliBob · 09-20-2010, 04:30 AM

Red, If you have a hammer drill but not an SDS rotary hammer then I would definitely go with the chipping technique. I have a Bosch SDS Rotary Hammer but every time I needed to drill a large hole I used a local coring service. They would come out for a single hole.
http://www.intracut.com/

The concrete cutting business like all construction is really slow now so you may get a small operator to come out for around a $100, that is if appearance is that important.

I would first drill a small hole from the block side into where the center of a block cell is, to verify that it is not filled with concrete which also may include #4 or bigger rebar.

Let us know what happens.
.

**oh'mike** · 09-20-2010, 07:14 AM

Last 4" diamond coring bit I bought was over $400--The prices at that site are cheap---I just wonder about the quality--

Red Squirrel · 09-20-2010, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaliBob

Red, If you have a hammer drill but not an SDS rotary hammer then I would definitely go with the chipping technique. I have a Bosch SDS Rotary Hammer but every time I needed to drill a large hole I used a local coring service. They would come out for a single hole.
http://www.intracut.com/

The concrete cutting business like all construction is really slow now so you may get a small operator to come out for around a $100, that is if appearance is that important.

I would first drill a small hole from the block side into where the center of a block cell is, to verify that it is not filled with concrete which also may include #4 or bigger rebar.

Let us know what happens.
.

Hmm I could maybe do that. I suppose I could buy myself a masonry bit set, could be good for various projects. I do have a hammer drill.

The blocks arn't filled unless that particular spot is for some reason but I doubt it. There are various areas where there are nail holes and I can put a coat hanger right through. I want the hole to look decently nice but does not have to be perfect. Just don't want it all crooked and bigger then 4 inches. The vent should be able to cover the hole without it looking bad.

Mr Chips · 09-20-2010, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaliBob

I would first drill a small hole from the block side into where the center of a block cell is, to verify that it is not filled with concrete which also may include #4 or bigger rebar..

Yea, if you rent and hit rebar, you'll damage and potentially ruin the bit, which will result in additional charges and loss of your deposit. some places charge for wear, in addition to standard rental fees.

nap · 09-20-2010, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Chips

Yea, if you rent and hit rebar, you'll damage and potentially ruin the bit, which will result in additional charges and loss of your deposit. some places charge for wear, in addition to standard rental fees.

use a wet core bit. They are designed to cut rebar as well as the block/brick.

btw: you can destroy a dry core bit by running it too fast as well. No return of deposit with that either I would suspect.

Mr Chips · 09-20-2010, 02:32 PM

if it's hollow block just hammer and chisel it, use a smaller bladed chisel or even a bull point.

make a hole in the center with the biggest bit you own, then mark the edges, score and chisel it out.

PaliBob · 09-20-2010, 03:05 PM

Red, For your hammer drill I would get a set of long SDS bits. They will work in a conventional drill chuck, just not as fast. The first hole through the block & brick should be as straight and level as possible.

I would start from the block side of the wall and try to get the first 1/2" center hole to align with the middle of a web opening in the block. Mark the perimeter with a magic marker using the 4" tubing as a template. If this is for a 4" Dryer vent that will exit on the brick side of the wall then you can use the vent hood to mark with heavy duty tape the maximum outside opening.

You can buy a single block or two to practice on so that you don't scar your bricks beyond the vent hood.

You can get a set of five 16" long SDS bits for $20 from HF or get by with a single 1/2" masonry bit that is at least 12" long. By making a series of holes around the inside of the 4" perimeter and chipping out the remainder with a long 1" cold chisel you should be good to go.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-46755.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-66440.html

And finally a 3 lb hammer, if you don't have one, works much better than any carpenters hammer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-sl...mmer-6748.html
.

Red Squirrel · 09-20-2010, 07:05 PM

About 55/day to rent, so I might look at just doing as suggested and just drill lot of small holes, and chizel away. They close at 5 so I can't bring it back the day I pick it out, so in reality it would cost me 110 bucks. If I end up stuck late at work, then add another 55 bucks... so it could be expensive.

I'm even wondering if I should just hire this out. What kind of tradesperson would do this, a masonry worker perhaps?

nap · 09-20-2010, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Squirrel

I'm even wondering if I should just hire this out. What kind of tradesperson would do this, a masonry worker perhaps?

If you fly me up there and buy dinner, I'll do it for free.

It really isn't that difficult. The multiple small holes (as close as you can get) allows you to simply whack the center with a hammer to break free the remaining connections. Just don't hit so hard as to move the entire brick or block rather than breaking the connections.

Mr Chips · 09-20-2010, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nap

If you fly me up there and buy dinner, I'll do it for free.

Heck, I'll pay my own airfare if you pick-up the bar tab...

it's an easy job, don't sweat it

Red Squirrel · 09-20-2010, 09:53 PM

Oh I'm sure it's easy, but just debating if it's worth buying the tools required to do it. Guess I may need to do this again in the future, so may as well bite the bullet now.

PaliBob · 09-21-2010, 01:32 AM

Red, Here is a Canadian source for masonry bits that will fit your Hammer Drill. You don't have to buy or rent a rotary hammer. You can get by with one or two (nice to have an extra) of the 3/8' x 12 Masonry drill bits.

http://leak-proof.com/catalog/grouti...352_30_34.html

You will also need a long shank cold chisel but since these are not too common you could use a small 1/4" x 12" star drill or even a long punch to break out the concrete webbing after you've drilled around it.
http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/...ar-drills.aspx

By getting a concrete block to practice on you will also be better equipped to judge where is the center of an open cell on your wall.